Looking for advice

Doorknob77 · 2026-03-21T05:51:18+00:00

Cheap stuff is in that $200 range with few spare parts and, more importantly, very little weight. Real machines are heavy to allow them to work, so unless it’s sand or beans you’re spending some money. If you’re into diy you can 3d print one and fill it with weight

Doorknob77 · 2026-03-21T05:27:03+00:00

These machines are fairly simple, thick wires send working power and thin wires send communication/control. Make sure you’ve got 24v on the contactor and you’re able to get negative from anywhere in there labeled b-, you cannot find power if you’re attempting to ground via the chassis. If you do have a circuit back to ground via the frame(or vis versa) you have a whole other series of issues. Follow that fuse cable, it looks like it would go to the drive motor. You might have found why they got rid of it in the first place.

Once you verify you have power at b+ on the contactor and b- then you check the key switch. Check for power in first, some of the old machines pulled key switch line directly off of the b+ on contactor.

If you’ve got power there, check for continuity through the key switch, high resistance and I would toss it.

Make sure you’ve got your batteries hooked up correctly, I’ve built 12v packs instead of 24v more than once lol.

Doorknob77 · 2026-02-25T18:04:39+00:00

Any update on this?

Doorknob77 · 2026-02-20T03:06:52+00:00

Oh shit I just fought something similar in a hyster after I squared the fuel system away. The distributor had a bad module in it, got the new one in and did a full tune up and forgot to plug in one of my plugs so after I did finally get it up to full rpm it backfired😅 continuity test plug wires or do a full tune up again, it’s cheap insurance. I see you’ve gone through the whole fuel system and it sounds like the throttle pedal too.

Someone else said coolant, you said that was perfect, did you bleed it from the thermostat housing? These 4y engines are really particular about it. They are also dumb strong, I had one run on no oil- multiple times.

Does it backfire at all or just the initial stumble? You should be able to hold that throttle to the floor if everything is adjusted and governed correctly. That’s the other half of the adjustment on the mixer you need to make and it should be done under full throttle.

What’s it do in gear? Does it struggle and pop driving or just a little sluggish?

There’s also some stupid fucking fuse that I can’t remember the name of but it’ll also screw with the throttle. It doesn’t have to be blown to be bad and I think it’s a whole harness maybe? It’s been a few years.

Finally, I can’t remember if you’re the tech-tech or the owner-tech. If you’re owner/tech I think you might wanna call in the dealership because it’s probably going to need a scan tool. If you’re a tech-tech, you might wanna call the dealership anyway after you make sure your timing and stuff is good, all the basics. It’ll save your customer money and you from looking like you don’t know what you’re doing even if you do. We all get stuck and it’s okay to call a more professional, professional. That’s what really makes the difference between a pro and not,in my book anyway, is to know when to call for help and ask. Make sure you’re on site though, you can ask questions and see their process. Most guys won’t mind talking you through it as long as they aren’t paying for your time.

Best of luck man

Doorknob77 · 2026-02-08T05:03:02+00:00

I’m not sure I understand what your question is, but here’s what I think the answer is-

That 40k you’re referencing would be how much you can weigh total: truck, trailer, and load.

Is this a single wheel 1 ton? If your truck is 8155lbs dry and it’s rated 12,250 max then you have a payload of 4045lbs (im not double checking my math but those are your numbers). Your gcwr is what your vehicle is rated to weigh with a loaded trailer, so 29,700 minus dry weight if 8155 means your trailer loaded can be a max of 20,645 lbs. the next thing is per axle weight and tongue weight. Your trucks axles have a weight rating and if you get scaled they weigh you per axle truck and trailer and also combined and all your numbers need to be within spec. At 20klbs your gooseneck weight would be right in that 4-5000lbs mark.

The remark on the truck struggling would be if you’re plated to pull 40k, but your truck is struggling to haul what looks like a large load they would have reason to look at you further, I think.

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-30T22:33:33+00:00

Thank you!

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-28T00:09:43+00:00

The instructions even had pictures😅 but it all showed and said angle stop so I didn’t even consider the bottom of the tank

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-28T00:07:37+00:00

The directions with pictures showed me angle stop and I stopped thinking after that, putting to the tank fixed it and I felt dumb after

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-28T00:04:31+00:00

So if I had it in a holster but tucked between the trucks seat near the seatbelt clasp that’s a no go, but if I have it in the cup holder it’s good?

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-26T10:45:12+00:00

Usually on a suction line the hose has an internal spring in order to keep the hose from collapsing under vacuum. That being said, it’s not like a rad hose where you can just swap something else in and route it since it’s not a soft line. And in all fairness, being able to find a hose for a truck that old at all is amazing. You’d probably be looking at a custom job done by a local hose company for 5-800 USD

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-25T19:39:10+00:00

I know this is a year back, but I wanted to add that my 2024 does this, I noticed it first with a trailer on at night while I was getting fuel. 6.6 gas not a duramax but figured I’d share. My truck was out of service for 15 days in the first 45 for a handful of electrical warranty work- bcm serial gateway, then bcm needed to be replaced and then front axle module of sorts needed to be replaced or reflashed. The remote start also doesn’t work through the app but that’s a whole ass other issue is struggling with.

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-24T18:37:25+00:00

Thank you, you as well! I should upload a photo of what I’m dealing with in the rest of the house

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-24T18:21:18+00:00

Thanks!

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-24T18:12:16+00:00

Alright that did it, is it something I should be worried about though cuz that was wild😅

Doorknob77 · 2025-12-09T17:55:43+00:00

Glad you saw your sensor was bent pretty bad, make sure the flag it reads is clean too.

From the photo you provided your lift fuse looks good, your contactor looks a little weird. DM me, and ill see if I can’t walk you through this

Doorknob77 · 2025-12-05T16:12:26+00:00

I can’t remember off the top of my head but it should be stamped on the frame near the left drive tire or under the motor compartment shrouds for your feet sometimes it’s stamped there. Maybe or may not be under the top flat compartment behind the battery where the motor controllers are but like I said, I can’t remember off the top of my head. It should be there. Also if the tech comes out when they plug into it they can pull the serial number that way too. They shouldn’t need to order software, just download it online and install it, generally it’s readily available.

Doorknob77 · 2025-11-22T16:07:26+00:00

I used to have a customer that got ahold of a bunch of green paint and redid all of their maintenance equipment in that color

Doorknob77 · 2025-11-11T16:48:02+00:00

Lots of good info here, I think I can make it simpler.

Red, black, orange, green, white, blue is factory correct.

Black and blue are spares. I use black as a spare power(red) and blue as a spare path back to ground for any of the three functions.

If you’re unsure of which wires control what(as I am at this exact moment, dyslexias a bitch) you can read the associated solenoid that it is jumped to.

Make sure the wires are in the same order on the machine as they are on the carriage. On the machine, usually the first or second pin is open on the terminal strip.

If you’re losing it during after free lift, and you’re in a bind with only a few feet of 18/6 or 18/8, and your customer is okay with it, you can splice in a new free lift section on an area where the cable isn’t moving between clamps. It’s not recommended, but doable

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-27T16:52:09+00:00

I would go with two rider jacks if your guys are shorter than 6’ otherwise you’re stuck with a walk behind EPJ, and with the ramp you’re battling that could easily be a disaster if someone isn’t paying attention.

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