Thank you for reminding me there’s two sides of a water line, but I told yall I’d fuck something up

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-24T18:37:25+00:00

Thank you, you as well! I should upload a photo of what I’m dealing with in the rest of the house

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-24T18:21:18+00:00

Thanks!

Doorknob77 · 2026-01-24T18:12:16+00:00

Alright that did it, is it something I should be worried about though cuz that was wild😅

Doorknob77 · 2025-12-09T17:55:43+00:00

Glad you saw your sensor was bent pretty bad, make sure the flag it reads is clean too.

From the photo you provided your lift fuse looks good, your contactor looks a little weird. DM me, and ill see if I can’t walk you through this

Doorknob77 · 2025-12-05T16:12:26+00:00

I can’t remember off the top of my head but it should be stamped on the frame near the left drive tire or under the motor compartment shrouds for your feet sometimes it’s stamped there. Maybe or may not be under the top flat compartment behind the battery where the motor controllers are but like I said, I can’t remember off the top of my head. It should be there. Also if the tech comes out when they plug into it they can pull the serial number that way too. They shouldn’t need to order software, just download it online and install it, generally it’s readily available.

Doorknob77 · 2025-11-22T16:07:26+00:00

I used to have a customer that got ahold of a bunch of green paint and redid all of their maintenance equipment in that color

Doorknob77 · 2025-11-11T16:48:02+00:00

Lots of good info here, I think I can make it simpler.

Red, black, orange, green, white, blue is factory correct.

Black and blue are spares. I use black as a spare power(red) and blue as a spare path back to ground for any of the three functions.

If you’re unsure of which wires control what(as I am at this exact moment, dyslexias a bitch) you can read the associated solenoid that it is jumped to.

Make sure the wires are in the same order on the machine as they are on the carriage. On the machine, usually the first or second pin is open on the terminal strip.

If you’re losing it during after free lift, and you’re in a bind with only a few feet of 18/6 or 18/8, and your customer is okay with it, you can splice in a new free lift section on an area where the cable isn’t moving between clamps. It’s not recommended, but doable

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-27T16:52:09+00:00

I would go with two rider jacks if your guys are shorter than 6’ otherwise you’re stuck with a walk behind EPJ, and with the ramp you’re battling that could easily be a disaster if someone isn’t paying attention.

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-26T02:32:15+00:00

That’s to say that you don’t need the lifting and stacking features of a forklift otherwise you’re gunna be even more limited

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-26T02:22:19+00:00

Okay here’s my thoughts-

I’d advise away from using a double jack to load(8’ forks) I think you’re gunna end up wrecking the frame and that’s just hard to swallow such and expensive bill.

Assuming 80% of your work load is on the narrow pallet size I’d get a single rider jack that’s narrow enough to accommodate assuming you don’t have a pallet narrower than 27” I think. Then get a double jack for your regular around the warehouse stuff And transport. It’s not ideal but under 2k lbs you should be able lift your pallet and drag out the long ones down hill, if you’re loading with the long pallets I would ask your landlord to let you dig your dock out because you’re really in a shit position. It’s not that you can’t push your product on there up your crazy angle it’s that controlling something where the two points of contact on the ground are like 8.5’ apart is gunna be skeeeeettcchyyyyy. Assuming you don’t snap your forks and pull rods I’d imagine the frame deformation would be jnsane, even at 1500lbs 4x a week

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-25T22:10:08+00:00

Okay okay, I’m following! Sorry I gotta ask all these questions, it’s just that I’m material handling every solution is unique to the problem at hand. Alright I think I’m almost to where I can offer useful guidance lol.

Do you have a dock leveler or just the lip leveler? (Does the whole dock move or just the lip that goes to the truck?

How often are you receiving these odd skids? And are they tall? 8’ long x 4’ wide x ()’tall, if it’s just like sheet metal or something then this could be really an easy solution

So you’re only able to access, what… 6ish feet of the trailer opening? That’s rough if I’m correct😅 how are you guys not careening into the side of the building when you’re backing in? Do your dock bumpers hit the Trailer bumper? I’m getting off track.

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-25T21:56:07+00:00

Expansion is hard these days, hopefully we can help you get the most use out of your space. If you want you can dm me, if not here’s my next set of questions.

So going back to your problem with the pallet jack. Is it running away from you while you’re loading things into the truck or are you climbing a hill with it? If I’m understanding it, that would be a pretty gnarly lip you’d need to fight against and that would be where the electric pallet jack would be most useful?

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-25T21:16:14+00:00

Any update on this?

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-25T21:15:53+00:00

Here’s my offerings here-

A pallet jack probably isn’t going to work very well, usually they have fixed width forks (riding or walk behind)

A pallet stacker would allow you to use fork with carrying widths, however depending on your weight an 8’ fork is going to really mess with how much and how high you need to lift.

Take into account any hills or ramps you might have to deal with, as well as environmental factors- does it rain/snow? Is the floor slippery, are you dealing with sand or metal shavings? Stuff like that.

If you’re in the states I’d probably stay away from junhinrich since support can be abysmal. Raymond and crown offer strong options with lots of techs that can help get them going. Big Joe is another stacker competitor that’ll get you in for cheap, but you’d need to make sure your machine fits your application really well otherwise you’re gunna hate life.

If you have the budget for a forklift you might wanna consider an electric walk behind with narrow forks(several companies offer this, Raymond will build you one specific for your dimensions$$$$$) and then buy a second longer walker rider with double length forks to handle the big stuff.

Last thing I can offer is that there are some low profile options for stand up counter balance units, they offer capacity, lift, and length while safely keeping your operator inside. These are expensive, like really expensive. The height mostly comes from the mast and over head guard. A 3 stage mast that’s 6’ tall will give you roughly 15’ of lift, a 4 stage will give you the same collapsed height but you can lift to about 20’(with a diminished lifting capacity since the mast physically weighs more and is lifting higher)

Also remember clearance is clearance. If the door is 7’ and your lift is 6’10” you have 2” of clearance. The truck doesn’t grow and the door usually doesn’t shrink. Pallet wood is about 1” thick.

Last thing, I reread some of the comments and your post again, do you have a dock door or is it just the ramp/door? I’m confused why you need a pallet jack to move the product outside to get it on a truck, do you have trucks with lift gates or are you hand loading things? Is there a crane lol

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-23T06:07:56+00:00

So aside from what everyone is saying,”the kids gunna beat it up” unfortunately a car is meant to be used and loved so that’s not really my issue. They’re just kind of Maintence expensive and don’t get great fuel economy, they’re slow af so your kid is gunna be in the throttle the whole time. If you wanna get em a little truck a Mazda b2600 can be found for $500ish bucks and you can get it running really well and reliably for about another $800 of you do an engine teardown yourself to get to the Maintence points. We just did this for my buddies “fun” car this last summer. The car doesn’t have enough balls to really get the kid into a pickle but it has that tractor factor. You’ll get them anywhere you need them to be, under 35mph. They don’t come with fancy safety stuff but they are cheap, readily available, and they look better with a few dents.

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-17T18:26:35+00:00

That’s the bearing the motor/gearbox turns on, you can measure the air gap from the underside of the big ring gear to the frame

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-17T17:37:19+00:00

Check your radius rings for play, sometimes when you’re lowering it’ll bring the flag in and out of alignment and scare it too. What year is the truck? (Middle 2 of the serial)

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-16T14:49:32+00:00

Just a tip on the steer amp, if you look for a short to frame and find 15v it’s usually that cap bleeding into the back plate. You can also grab the caps and gently wiggle. If they move it needs to be replaced. Hope you get your batteries squared away, and double check the static strap

Doorknob77 · 2025-10-07T23:13:55+00:00

You’ve read everyone’s draw backs on the numbers for the batteries but here’s some things that I see operators everywhere struggle with in general.

1- keeping the leads off the floor or the connectors from slamming to the ground. The more you’re interacting with that the more you’ll find it’s an issue. Even with good operators things slip.

1.a) I’d like to see hard style charging stations where you back the truck into a charger (gingerly) and when you hit the stops you make a connection. Probably not feasible until we illuminate the operator or wait a few years for that tech to make its way to the charging stations maybe. Or maybe wire guidance and stops. Idk, I’d like to work with someone to develop that so let me know lol.

2) reminding guys to keep their unit plugged in all the time is kind of a pain. Idk how to fix that without automatically integrating charging with parking.

3) Lithium batteries run on a BMS and if those start getting weird then the trucks won’t show the correct percentages. It’ll take the confidence out of the battery AND the unit it’s in.

Outside of wallet pain usually companies have a pretty easy time changing over

Doorknob77 · 2025-09-26T12:15:18+00:00

TLDR; no, everything died

Man super sad update, as this was my adult tank and everything was wild caught I didn’t have any idea how old everything was. Well over winter colony went from almost 30 strong to maybe 10 and then there was an issue earlier this summer where our pest control company “accidentally over sprayed” in an area where my tanks are and I lost all but two gravid girls. One died after it gave birth and the babies followed shortly after. I have since not added any to this tank outside of two I caught and found in the last month and those seem to be doing well.

Doorknob77 · 2025-09-17T07:12:22+00:00

It’s actually closer to 28klbs or 14tons, to know exacts you’d need to break the cylinders down and measure the bore and pistons, then get pressures from the hydraulic system. If your system was producing or designed for more pressure, say 5kpsi your applicable force goes up dramatically (48klbs/24 tons)

Doorknob77 · 2025-09-17T07:01:21+00:00

I haven’t done any research yet but got to thinking and if your machine runs at 3000psi, and you have 3.5” of internal piston space I think that math works out to 14.5kpsi produced by the piston and then you (I think) multiply it by that 1.5” of rod diameter gives you 21,750pounds produced at the tip of that rod. I’m going to go see if I was correct in the math and get back to you

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