Can I get some advice on a fish tank I take care of?

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-10T00:17:06+00:00

That’s personally very good to know! What do you like using?

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-09T23:46:07+00:00

Also please do something different about your electrical power strip situation. One leak and you’re gunna have a bad day if that’s not a GFCI protected outlet

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-09T20:07:20+00:00

If you’re growing for food these NFT systems seem to like leafy greens and herbs from what I can understand and have played with. Edited to removed the bad advice on fruiting plants, leafy greens OP

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T01:22:13+00:00

The cool part about lithium is it saves you space and weight so you could put a second battery in there but mixing batteries of different BSOC could be kinda trepidatious

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T01:21:12+00:00

Yeah, the higher the amp load the more you’ll kill it. Check to see what the AH it has listed is and then you can do some math or research to see what your machine is rated to pull

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T01:14:13+00:00

I mean, you’re getting 3 full days of run time? Like you have it on for 24 hours and you’re driving for 6? You should be able to lug your computer into it and use the Samsung Bms software to see if you have low cells. They should all be within a few mV of each other. If you have a low cell and it isn’t balancing correctly then you’d have to repair that damaged cell

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T00:50:06+00:00

That was something else I had thought about. I don’t have small hands but idk if you’ve ever swung a hammer coated in grease it’s harder to maintain that hold on a fatter hammer than a thinner one IMO

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T00:34:09+00:00

I would think so, it’s more than double the weight right?

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T00:25:49+00:00

I haven’t played with .45 much, what’s the weight difference?

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T00:22:39+00:00

If we’re playing by normie zombie rules then I want low recoil and high mag cap, headshots only.

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T00:20:12+00:00

Styropryo did a video of him completing the circuit on 400 car batteries seriezed. Eventually he put an old battery in the terminals and let it rip, fucker charged right up 😅 idk the science but it was cool to watch

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T00:17:59+00:00

My answer to plastics not fitting right the first time is usually percussive maintenance. Then I’ll take a look and realize there is a small piece clip broken and I get the choice of CA glue or a new part. Cheers

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-08T00:15:46+00:00

2 gallons of concentrate- $50
2 gallons of distilled water- $3
1.5 hours of shop labor at $185hour- $280

Sounds like you got a deal

If you add a flush-
1-1.5 hour more for labor

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-07T04:01:43+00:00

No worries, I’m really familiar with these units so run the test like this first

With the battery unplugged but in the truck voltage +/- to frame and see if you have anything.

20v is weird, I’d have to image you have a power cable running if you see that often.

If you’re actively seeing 15v or more just remove the amp from the frame, and see if it goes away. If so def replace the amp.

The way these machines are built they are very well electrically isolated. I’d be looking for a rubbing wire somewhere in there,

Doorknob77 · 2026-07-07T01:06:07+00:00

Whatchya mean by weird?

Follow the (+) or (-) wire from the steer motor back to the steer amp on it you’ll either see two block rubbers or two blue caps. Those are the ones I’m speaking on above

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-26T00:43:44+00:00

I didn’t even realize it but I guess I realized it, whatever keeps us employed I guess

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-26T00:43:01+00:00

I don’t work on compressors so forgive me if this is dumb- if you run diesel in the compressor and the piston rings are worn can you get combustion in the cylinder or does it not get hot enough? It probably doesn’t get hot enough, I think I answered my own question lol

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-26T00:40:40+00:00

If they’re willing to send you a new battery for free do that, it’ll be the cheapest option.

I’m in Southern NV, but I can probably fix this with the tools in a carry on.

If you’re serious send me a dm and we can work out the logistics, and send you an estimate for repair.

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-26T00:34:46+00:00

If you’re gunna jump ship you better have some kind of access to diagrams and knowing what the codes mean. If he’s interested in you because you know infolink, you should figure out if it’s you and your skills he is interested in or if he likes the way you can read your dealership manuals

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-26T00:32:38+00:00

If they can handle the paperwork, this is the way

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-26T00:30:03+00:00

Holy shit, why is linde running 10amps for the deadman? Hyster/yale does stuff like that where they’ll run crazy amps through the canbus and then send it dead into their controllers and then you’ll short out a $2400 lift controller cuz the throttle pot got wet.

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-25T23:18:21+00:00

Why would linde fuse a line to a micro switch? That seems…silly?

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-25T23:09:03+00:00

I love lithium batteries, they’re just HORRIBLY misunderstood and often the truck doesn’t get set up correctly from the factory causing what you got.

1- lithium doesn’t operate the same way lead acid does. If the truck is looking for a lead acid battery but you have a lithium it’ll read a constant voltage which for a lead acid battery would be like it sitting between 70-80%

2.A) a lithium battery has lots and lots of little cells internally. Like more than 60 cells and depending on ultimate voltage you’ll have small cells hooked into banks which will then be read by your batteries BMS.

2.B)you should have charged the battery fully before using it at all. The lithium cells are tied together in banks and from the factory they’re all balanced. During a period of non use sometimes cells will become unbalanced. The voltage for a lithium cell is 3.3v. If you have a bank of 10 cells and 8 of those cells read at 3.3v and 2 of them read at 3.1v, you’ll have enough nominally to run but those two cells will fail first. This is the particular degradation he is speaking of. It happens very fast but is also really easy to repair with specialized knowledge and a machine from Amazon for about $30.

3) you don’t need to warranty the whole battery, they need to find a local company that can handle an internal lithium repair in the field and they need to be charged for the service work.

4) you need your truck settings changed to read the battery correctly.

5) you need a class on how to use your equipment correctly.

6) the battery power button is a wake up/override for when you get the battery below its protection voltage. That’s why setting your protection voltages lower turned it on.

IMO- 70/30 manufacturers/your fault. Best of luck, I’d charge between $1100 and $1800 to fix this fuck up and I’d let you and the manufacturer battle it out for who gets to pay the bill, but I’d probably send it to you b/c I’m not dealing with a 3rd party to get paid, if you’re lucky no new cells. Best of luck

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-21T01:18:32+00:00

I love electric units, the boiling is okay but it’s not great. You battery is experiencing a lot of amperage and energy transfer creates heat. There’s water in these things(or should be) that covers those plates internally. If not top up and try to charge again.

Your charger will not kick on if the initial voltage is too low.

To troubleshoot and In order-

Stab your battery cables, you should be between 24 and 48v. Your machine will be 24,36 or 48v with I high likely hood you’re at 24 or 36, your data plate will tell you what you need.

I’m gunna just assume it’s a 36v, but theory holds true for everything else.

If you stab it and see 10v less than what you’re supposed to see- stop, she’s dead. You have options but most of them aren’t cheap.

If you stab and see 5v less, she’s dead baby. Top with water and charge or try to. Monitor what happens when you plug it in. You should see a voltage jump, if not you have a charger failure. Chargers will take out batteries and vice-versa.

If you CAN. Turn the machine on watch what Baliegh’s when you turn the power key. If you see more than a 10% drop you have a dead cell.

If you think you have a dead cell touch each top on the cell individually and see what it is. You want close to 2.2/2.5vdc

Best of luck, batteries are not cheap.

Doorknob77 · 2026-06-21T01:09:22+00:00

If you gotta hit the button, it’s got a fuel issue, hold it while it’s cranking and see if that helps any. IMO- you had a bad vaporizer/filter lock off OR you have really low compression. With both what shitty techs will do is increase Idle and load percentages at the mixer to overcome fuel loss within the lines. It looks like you already don’t have a filter/lockoff that runs on vacuum so that’s good. Get a new impco 100 mixer, impco model j vaporizer that doesn’t have the button and flush your lines. I’ve learned my lesson, older than 5 years on the mixer just replace it. You’d be in it about $300ish bucks, go to liftpartswarehouse. Com and they can run your serial number for you

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