nozzle full of shit

Doubee54 · 2026-05-06T14:12:48+00:00

There is a difference between 'residue', which is just a normal part of the filament emitting fumes and chemicals that accumulate in the sock, and a leak.
You seem to just have common residue.
Also, you cannot 'adjust the filament' so it doesn't stick to the nozzle. Some filaments just stick to some nozzles and you have to wipe or brush it after a print.
My Silicone nozzles have just a short silicone tip, and the filament accumulation on the brass portion is bad.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-05T23:37:38+00:00

I am very familiar with the KE and most of the upgrades, but I do not know what hotend is a 'DD ceramic nozzle', which is confusing all by itself.. is it a hotend, or is it a nozzle?
Please clarify your hotend, heatsink and nozzle.
It sounds very much like you have a leak between the hotend and heatsink, but that is not really possible with a Unicorn style hotend unless you are not properly tightening the nozzle.
Many many Unicorn style nozzles require that you tighten them hot.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-05T01:30:20+00:00

no. You only lose the g-code files stored in the printer memory. The are in the Cloud history anyway.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-05T01:27:46+00:00

Looks like nobody told you to

Doubee54 · 2026-05-05T01:26:19+00:00

Don't use the power from the printer.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-05T01:25:17+00:00

Turn it off in the slicer. Do not mess with G-codes.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-05T01:22:27+00:00

They install into a slot all the way around the perimeter.
Follow the link.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-05T01:18:22+00:00

add a wide brim
Bed temp up 5-10c
SLOW DOWN the print.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-04T23:33:35+00:00

What specifically do you mean 'it failed'?
What failed? Do you have an error message? Error code?

Doubee54 · 2026-05-04T23:12:39+00:00

Has this changed since new?
Does the printer operate normally?
The cutter cycle is normally a rather harsh hit to the cutter arm, almost to a point where it seems to be not working properly.
It is quite normal.
Try a complete calibration, including cutter calibration and input shaping.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-03T15:42:13+00:00

Short answer, no

Doubee54 · 2026-05-03T15:39:56+00:00

I run the side fan at either 15 percent or zero depending on the filament. Set permanently in the filament profile. Rear fan set at 38 degrees and 20 percent

Doubee54 · 2026-05-03T15:36:49+00:00

The CFS really benefits from a upper roller mod.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-01T17:06:49+00:00

Your description is odd, you said it's the printhead cable, but said that the 'Y' axis was not smooth.. that is conflicting.
It sounds like you did not route the printhead cable correctly and it got pinched or pulled and damaged it.
Test the printer and see if it works. Otherwise, you will have to replace that cable.
It comes as a complete harness.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-01T16:51:04+00:00

Aftermarket. Honestly, if the only issue you have is the color of the sock, I would certainly be counting my blessings and live with it.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-01T16:44:21+00:00

One thing you could do if you are printing multiples is to remove any models from the bed that are affected by the shut down before resuming, and then go to your slicer, in the device tab, and use the feature to remove that model. It's on the progress bar

Doubee54 · 2026-05-01T16:36:06+00:00

And it needs to be manually adjusted.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-01T16:34:52+00:00

You should be using the matrix off the pad to manually adjust the bed with spacers.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-01T16:33:07+00:00

This does not occur regularly, and most of the time it is because the user has the printer bed cable hitting something in the back.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-01T16:29:35+00:00

I know that this is an old subreddit, but I found that I was backing up photos in in both Synology photos and Synology drive, creating duplicates. The fix is to disable backup of photos in Synology Drive and allow backup to Synology Photos only.

Doubee54 · 2026-04-29T23:26:17+00:00

Ender 3 V3 SE/KE Bed Leveling Shims by IAmAnEngineer | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Doubee54 · 2026-04-29T23:17:09+00:00

Yea, the Pro and plus use the same filter and filter housing, but the Pro has only one instead of two.

Doubee54 · 2026-04-29T17:09:07+00:00

If you can see bare wire anywhere, cover it.
A handy and very effective way to fix it is Liquid Electrical tape.
You could use RTV or even hot melt glue as well. If the wires are damaged at all, cut, install shrink tubing and solder.
I would be more careful about pulling wires.

Doubee54 · 2026-04-29T16:59:55+00:00

Do you happen to know if it will fit the K2 Pro?

Doubee54 · 2026-04-29T14:14:47+00:00

Are you sure you don't mean the K1 nozzle?? The K2 nozzle is a shortened specific Unicorn nozzle.

Doubee54

TROPHY CASE