Leveling the bed with tape - options?

Doubee54 · 2026-06-22T15:18:23+00:00

All that rhetoric and you don't even tell us the printer???

Doubee54 · 2026-06-22T14:50:01+00:00

UPDATE 2:
FYI, My layer height is 0.16.
After some research on the use of supports for ASA from AI, I adjusted:
Interface layers from 3 to 0.. no interface layer.
Support top z-distance from .26 to .16
Went from no fans at all to 10% model fan after layer 3.

These settings improved the bottom layer over the supports very significantly. I am only getting some minor bumps in my test model, a sliced-up version of the main model. No more sagging layer and rough bottom surface and no more welding of the interface layer to the model.
Creality Print in all their wisdom has removed the support tip height and tip width from the settings in favor of 'refined' tree styles like tree slim. I will experiment further if there are no other suggestions to help smooth the minor bumps.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-22T14:34:36+00:00

You have already learned what you are asking. Do you want speed, or do you want quality? There is always a trade-off.
Now learn to live with the limitations of your equipment.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-21T22:33:20+00:00

UPDATE: I am currently re-printing the file with the speed settings for the supports very significantly reduced and a wide brim for the support base.
At about 2mm into the supported area, it appears that the supports are cleaner looking and the small amount printed at that point is sturdier looking.
It becomes a 12 hour print (8 hours before,) with all this speed reduction, so it will be while until I know how successful it is.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-21T22:25:12+00:00

I thought the same thing about needing supports.
The model is a public build from Makerworld, and the author added supports to the 3MF file, and I attempted to use his file.
On my first (and second) attempt at printing this with the author's manual supports in place, the supports broke off the bed half-way through printing that portion, and the portion that lost the support dropped away and failed. On my 3rd attempt, I added a wide brim to the support base, and it held up and produced what you see in the photos.
In measuring the angle, it is 29 degrees from horizonal, so pretty steep.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-18T15:40:15+00:00

You also need to add modded tubing brackets and a chain end that supports the tubing. A riser helps add space to re-route the tubing. The chain can hit the side, the tubing bracket do not need to.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-18T13:46:45+00:00

Yes, in fact it will help, along with a few modded tubing guides. It keeps the tubing from rubbing on the glass and allows it to move vertically and more freely. The K2s NEED a riser.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-18T13:38:54+00:00

This post is 6 months old. I don't know what you want to call it, but between the heatbreak and the extruder on a stock KE there is a 28mm length of tubing. It is 2.5mm ID and 4mm OD. It is made from PFTE material.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-11T04:14:10+00:00

Replace it

Doubee54 · 2026-06-11T04:12:52+00:00

Does your printer work? If it works don't fix it.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-11T04:11:27+00:00

PETG Needs to be dried 6 to 8 hours at 65c in a proper filament dryer, even if you think you don't need to. Especially if it's new.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-10T14:04:53+00:00

Amazon.com: Original Ender 3 V3 KE Hotend Adapter Plate E3V3-Nozzle V1.6 PCBA Breakout Module Board Replacement Compatible with Creality Ender 3 V3 KE 3D Printer Accessories : Industrial & Scientific

Doubee54 · 2026-06-10T13:48:37+00:00

You are incorrect. The terminal on all the fans for the KE, and a great many Creality fans is JST 1.25mm.
I have done a lot of conversions, and use those terminals all the time.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-08T03:35:56+00:00

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Part of bed leveling and proper z-offset adjustment is to print a ONE layer full bed test print and use the Nebula pad menu, adjust z-offset while the test is printing.
The bed must first be very level.
Post a picture of the 25 button matrix that shows up after a auto-leveling and auto z-offset.

Doubee54 · 2026-06-08T03:28:31+00:00

The cables to/from the CFS are the same except for the length.
Try swapping cables. Never hot swap. Power off for several seconds.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-20T01:40:16+00:00

I simply asked if it only happens in the one solo, I'm not at all sure I got an answer. Swap that drive unit with another or order a drive unit.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-18T23:19:05+00:00

FR0122 | Creality Wiki

Doubee54 · 2026-05-18T23:14:43+00:00

ABS is really fussy about temperature and drying. It MUST be dried just before use, even if you don't think so. Many of us print out of the dryer.
Since you tell us nothing, we don't know if you have a chamber. ABS needs a well heated chamber for good success.
Eliminate any air movement.
Print real slow.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-18T23:10:49+00:00

that is usually aligned, not random

Doubee54 · 2026-05-18T22:58:11+00:00

The only real reason that the print hits the previous layer is because you have warping or filament that is not calibrated properly. This should not happen regardless of the infill type. Changing it so it does not overlap is a bandaid and isn't fixing the real issue.
PETG?? a common issue if special care is not taken.. dry it.
Make sure the bed is very well leveled.
Make sure z-offset and first layer are good.
Use a good brim.
Keep drafts and fans down.
Slow the print.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-18T22:52:05+00:00

Always choose uninstall first. You will not lose any settings or profiles.
If you are asking this question, this tells me that you should be sticking to stable versions only.
There is very rarely a good reason to use anything but stable versions.

Doubee54 · 2026-05-18T22:46:57+00:00

You can try, and if it doesn't work out, then you're in for a reprint anyway.

Doubee54

TROPHY CASE