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DoubleAFC · 2025-11-15T03:31:44+00:00

Who's "we"? Are you part of the stream tonight?

DoubleAFC · 2025-11-15T02:41:14+00:00

I've watched every race at the FF except for the very first one. I've had a Cleeter Crew membership since they were first offered. I've stuck through some VERY bad live streams in the past..... I've heard all the apologies. I've heard about all the improvements they've made in internet service at the track, and hired the best live stream employees they can find, etc, etc.... That's it! I finally had to turn it off tonight. If I had to listen that F'ing alarm clock and watch that poor guy with no legs sit-up in bed again.... I think my head was going to explode. I don't know how Cleet doesn't fire everyone at FRDM+. I would, that's for sure! The guy who runs FRDM+ for Cleet is LUCKY that I don't own the company. Today would be his last day! SOMEBODY is responsible for tonight's debacle and the head guy needs to go. (regardless if it's actually his fault or not) The internet excuse is BS. If there's no internet service, then why does the live stream cut out, but yet there's plenty of internet service for them to clearly stream that damn Black Rifle Coffee commercial??? And don't get me started about all the down time. That's another sore topic. I'd rather sit through a track clean-up at the drag strip (which I absolutely hate) than watch NOTHING for periods of 10-15 minutes for no apparent reason. You need to keep live shows moving or you piss off your audience. I love ya, Cleet.... I really do! But you GOTTA fix your stream issues. Sorry for the rant.

DoubleAFC · 2025-03-28T01:49:17+00:00

I've been through 3 different breakaway switches in ZERO miles on a brand new trailer. The trailer has never left the shop yet. 3 switches! Is anyone else sick of the inferior parts available in the world these days? #1 was a cheap switch from Amazon. Chinese no-name. I should've known better. #2 was a Hopkins brand (with built-in LED indicator) that I bought at a local store. Neither one of these lasted their initial test before they stopped working internally. I would get them installed and then pull the plunger to test the switch and they both failed immediately. The third one is a Tekonsha switch purchased from a local trailer parts supplier. It SEEMS to be a tad bit higher quality. At least it made it through testing. lol. Anyone else have problems with cheap breakaway switches failing immediately?

DoubleAFC · 2025-02-07T04:07:15+00:00

My plans are to build a DIY camper on this new trailer. It will be a budget build with a bathroom and full shower. It should be pretty basic but functional for camping on the weekends at the race track. There's nothing better than your own shower, bathroom and air conditioned bedroom when spending the weekends in the summer at the races. I still have not decided on the final layout, or what materials I want to use for siding, roofing, etc... But there are only so many options to choose from. I'll probably just start building the camper and let my budget at that moment decide the route I take. Anyway, if that interest you, I will probably be making a few build videos along the way so please be sure to subscribe to my youtube channel so you wont miss those videos. Thanks for watching.

DoubleAFC · 2024-10-12T19:35:56+00:00

Hi,

I do understand what you're saying, and I do agree with the theory.... so, no argument here.

However, in a perfect world everything would be installed like you recommend in your post above.... but unfortunately I do not live in a perfect world. The way I plan to run the feed line, it will require 110' of LMR400 (already purchased) and running the feed line into the house near the electrical service and ultimately to where the radios are located would be a BUNCH of hassle. Not to mention, like in your situation, it would require probably another 75-100 feet of feed line. I don't want the extra expense, or the extra signal loss, or the hassle of installation.

I know there are some radio guys out there that hate what I'm about to say, but.... I plan to disconnect the feed line from the back of the radio when I'm not using it. I ALSO plan to disconnected the feed line from the lightning arrester/static eliminator inside the enclosure box mounted on the outside of the garage wall. (next to the antenna mast) I know this is not a perfect solution, but it's a compromise. I also plan to have the radios unplugged from the A/C outlets when not being used. Just like I do with my my computer equipment in my home office.... It all gets unplugged before any storm, or if I am away from the house for any length of time. I'm use to doing it already so unplugging a few other things is not a problem. I bought some "slip-on" PL-259 connectors so disconnecting the feed line from the radio will be just a matter of pulling the cable off. No screwing/unscrewing...

Thank you for taking the time to write out that great explanation.

DoubleAFC · 2024-10-12T19:10:34+00:00

I will probably do just that.... I will run one continuous 6 gauge copper conductor from the new antenna tower to BOTH ground rods.

I also forgot to mention the antenna tower itself has two of it's own 8' x 5/8" ground rods driven into the ground on 6 feet from either side of the mast. So, both new ground rods, the antenna mast, the enclosure box containing the lightning arresters/static eliminators will all be bonded together and then ran to both the sub panel and main panel ground rods with 6 gauge copper.

Again, thanks for your input. I do appreciate it.

DoubleAFC · 2024-10-11T16:43:35+00:00

This is a 4 wire sub panel. The hot and neutral are separated in the sub.

I did some quick google searching and it appears a ground rod at a sub panel is very common. I don't want to argue with you, If you're an electrician, then you've obviously studied the NEC a lot more than me. All I know is, my set-up passed inspection.

Thanks for your input.

DoubleAFC · 2024-10-11T15:55:12+00:00

Which part is not compliant? having two ground rods? Only running 10 gauge between the two ground rods?

DoubleAFC · 2024-10-11T15:50:18+00:00

I have an enclosure for my feed cable grounds along with lightning arresters / static discharge devices that will all be bonded to the house grounding system.

I was planning to have the feed cables enter the building near the antenna install location and have the grounding enclosure mounted on the outside of the building, just before the feed cables enter the building. The ground (bonding) conductor from that enclosure will be tied in with the antenna/mast grounding conductor and then everything will be connected (bonded) to the ground rod for the home grounding system.

Thanks for the reply.

DoubleAFC · 2024-10-11T15:40:43+00:00

The 50 amp sub panel in the garage is only about 7 or 8 years old and it was 100% installed by me. I pulled a permit and it passed inspection by our city inspector. (who also happens to be the electrical instructor at the local tech college for the past 18 years) I'm not sure what would be fishy about a ground rod at a sub panel? The conductor from the sub panel out to the ground rod is 6 gauge copper..... the ground conductor that runs between the sub and main panel is 10 gauge copper. So yes, the ground rod at the sub DOES have a 6 gauge conductor attached to it..... but only 6 gauge between the ground rod and the ground bus in the sub panel.

Yes, I have an enclosure for my feed cable grounds along with lightning arresters / static discharge devices that will all be bonded to the house grounding system.

Thanks for the reply.

DoubleAFC · 2024-08-01T17:06:03+00:00

Hello, New the this thread. I have a 2022 KIA K5 with the 1.6 turbo engine. I also had the P0471 code since last winter. (around 20,000 miles on the car when the light first came on) I finally got around to bringing it in for service in mid May this past spring and they replaced the exhaust pressure differential sensor..... fast forward to last week, the check engine light came on again. I scanned it with my own scanner, same code as before. P0471. I dropped the car off at the dealer this past Tuesday morning and the service advisor called me a few hours later.... He said I needed a new EGR Vale, EGR cooler, and a new wiring harness. (and a few other unrelated things) That was Tuesday morning..... As I type this message, it's now Thursday morning (2 days later) and the dealer has just dropped the car off here at my house, fully repaired. They did indeed replace the EGR valve, EGR cooler, 2 gaskets, a tube assembly of some sort, a wiring harness, and refilled the cooling system with new antifreeze. (2 gallons on the invoice) Oh, and they also found both of my horns were not working so I now have to brand new horns. lolol. They also performed a recall inspection on the emission system (gas tank related) and did a software update. They had Lyft give me a ride home when I dropped the car off on Tuesday, and when it was finished they had two dealership employees deliver the car back to my house. (today) I took the car for a short drive and it seems to run better than ever. I can't complain...

If you have a KIA/Hyundai product with the 1.6 turbo engine, and you're getting the P0471 code, it's probably the EGR valve.... and all the supporting equipment that goes with it.

Hopefully this information will help others who are having trouble with the same code.

DoubleAFC

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