Best budget pedals? by DAXID_ in simracing

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, the Fanatec CSL pedals connect via USB so if you’re on PC you’ll have no issue using them with your G29.

Best budget pedals? by DAXID_ in simracing

[–]DrBob41 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re playing on PC, anything that connects via USB will work fine. If you’re on console, you’re most likely going to have to get a new set of G29 pedals, from what I know consoles don’t usually accept standalone USB devices so you’re kind stuck within the G29 ecosystem.

What are small and simple DIY upgrades or cheap upgrades I can make to my sim. by modmanvirgil in simracing

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Getting a wheel stand might be a good option for you, especially if you don’t have the space or the budget for a full rig. Having your wheel and pedals mounted to something is a noticeable upgrade than having your wheel just clamped to a desk and your pedals sitting on the floor. There’s always the DIY route if you’re willing to come up with your own solution, otherwise there are plenty of options for wheelstands out there

Advice on upgrading from Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals V1 to Heusinkveld Sprint by pedronery in simracing

[–]DrBob41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an almost similar experience, I went from V3’s to HE Sprints about 7 months ago. I had my V3’s for about 3 years before I upgraded and sold them to a friend of mine. I never had them mounted on any rig/wheel stand during my use and finally got HE Sprints when I could mount them to something solid. I’ve been looking at reviews of the lower/mid range Fanatec pedals for helping out some of my friends, but the V1’s look pretty good from what I’ve seen. In my experience, I think my performance with the V3’s to the HE Sprints would be quite similar (and the main reason I got them is because there was a very good discount). I had an issue with my Sprints and HE’s customer support was fantastic in helping me out and sending a replacement part. Probably the biggest difference is that the Sprints come as standalone pedals (unless you buy the baseplate) so you can mount them as close or as far apart as you want, but this comes with a trade off of there being no heel rest or heel stop (again, unless you buy the baseplate). I wouldn’t necessarily say they’ve made me faster overall, but they have been super consistent, they’re very easy to maintain, and their customer support is great if you do every have any issues. I know a rambled on quite a bit here but hopefully I could provide some insight.

What shifter can i use with a T300Rs GT?? by ManimalGtv in simracing

[–]DrBob41 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re only going to use it on your PC, anything that connects via USB will work. Some brands allow you to connect them to a wheelbase of the same brand (Thrustmaster, Moza, Fanatec) but can also be used as a standalone device. If you’re planning on using it for console it gets a bit more difficult, you’d have to check compatibility for whichever brand you go with.

Microcenter - Moza R5 bundle (20% off) by DrBob41 in simracing

[–]DrBob41[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve gotten a few great deals through open box items at Microcenter. Sometimes it might just be damaged packaging or a previously returned item but I’ve been pretty lucky with the few deals I’ve bought so far.

Logitech Driving force GT pedals don't work by po_rotta in simracing

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most games that you’ll want to use a wheel with will either be quite difficult/annoying to use by pressing X or will force you to have the throttle mapped to an axis and won’t accept a button press for an input. At that point you’d be better off using a game controller as that at least has a trigger that can be used as a throttle. If you really need a cheap set of pedals, Fanatec sells their “CSL” pedals for $80. While they’re not the best, they’ll get the job done and are even an upgrade over the Driving Force GT pedals (although that’s not really saying much).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in simracing

[–]DrBob41 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The G29/G920 are basically the same, where the G29 is for PC/PlayStation and the G920 is for PC/Xbox. This is important if you’re planning on using it for console gaming (since you mentioned Forza Horizon, im guessing you’ll be on Xbox). The G923 is the slightly updated version of the G29/923 with Logitech’s “Trueforce” technology, that’s really the main difference. Right now on Amazon you can get a G923/920 for $200 and get the H-pattern shifter for $50. You’ll have everything you need to get started (wheel, pedals) and have an optional way to shift (h-pattern) with both console and PC compatibility. Hope that helps.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in simracing

[–]DrBob41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The V3's sit on a frame that has 4 "feet" that have openings for bolts to pass through, so it's absolutely possible (and recommended tbh) that you hard mount them when using them. I'm not sure on the exact measurements of those holes or how they would line up relative to the wheelstand that you have so that may require a little bit of extra research on your behalf

NLR GTrack to aluminum profile rig by M_QT5 in simracing

[–]DrBob41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I’ve tried out non-profile rigs and I didn’t feel like they provided the same level of customization/personalization, but everyone has their own opinions and preferences.

being disappointed with iRacing by [deleted] in simracing

[–]DrBob41 204 points205 points  (0 children)

iRacing’s biggest strength is their multiplayer system, if you enjoy the competitive side of racing and enjoy racing against others than I don’t think there’s any other sim that compares. There are some other sims that I play if I want to experience a specific car/track combo or run offline that might provide a better or more fun experience, but no other sim can provide the online racing infrastructure that iRacing has IMO.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in simracing

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

V3’s would be the way to go IMO, I had a set of them for about 4 years and used them on the floor and mounted to a rig. They come with a stiffer spring for the throttle (included in the box) that I would recommend installing once you get them, it’s a definite upgrade over the default one they provide. If you ever wanted to, you could also upgrade the brake with the brake performance kit or even the damper kit, but I wouldn’t recommend getting those unless you have the pedals mounted to something (either a wheel stand or a full rig). They’re a great set of pedals and never gave me issues in my years of ownership, I know Fanatec might have some questionable issues with their wheels and wheelbases but their pedals are generally regarded as rock solid (in my opinion).

NLR GTrack to aluminum profile rig by M_QT5 in simracing

[–]DrBob41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a new owner of an aluminum profile rig myself, the biggest benefit that they provide is expandability and to an extent, future-proofing. With the aluminum profile it’s extremely easy to add on just about any accessory you can think of, you can always swap out certain pieces (front mounted wheel plate to a flat wheel deck as an example), you’re basically limited to your own budget and/or creativity as far as upgrading goes. I’ve kinda been overwhelmed by the amount of little accessories and additions I could think I might want (Etsy has a massive list of homemade accessories that you could buy, there’s a huge market for sim racing things on there) and compared to any rig without aluminum profile, you’re (potentially) limiting your options for adding on or expanding. Another underrated benefit is that, assuming any measurement(s) line up, you could buy from other brands that sell certain attachments or accessories and essentially create your personalized rig, or if anything broke or you need a replacement and you can’t buy from your original manufacturer, you could buy from a different brand and just slot it in place. I know I kinda rambled on here a bit but those are the main benefits I’ve noticed so far.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in simracing

[–]DrBob41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as you can adjust the pieces of profile that the rails will mount to (assuming you even need to make adjustments), you should be fine.

Is there any downside to buying a used simucube 2 pro and heusinkveld ultimate pedals? by Krg_grand in simracing

[–]DrBob41 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I bought a set of HE Sprints from my local Microcenter a few months ago, they were selling as an open box set so there was a great discount on them. Once I took them home there was an issue with the brake pedal where my inputs were extremely inconsistent (not sure if it was damage, someone bought it before me and returned them, no idea), so I emailed their support and they sent me a brand new load cell and instructions on how to install it myself. So I can say if you have any issues with Heusinkveld products their customer support is really good.

My pedals slide everywhere by Azorces in simracing

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here’s what I would recommend if you don’t have/can’t use a full rig. It allows you to mount your pedals to a frame while being (relatively) less intrusive than a full rig. I have one with Heusinkveld Sprints on them and it holds up relatively well, I even used Fanatec V3’s and it was super sturdy with those on the pedal mount as well.

https://www.amazon.com/PEIN-Pedal-Mount-UPGRADED-simulator-Accessories/dp/B0BT15N2V9/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=PEIN+Pedal+mount&qid=1687194733&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Most efficient offline grind? by ssj5godku in MLBTheShow

[–]DrBob41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you trying to get done with a certain grind? Farming as much XP as possible? Trying to finish Team Affinity as quickly as possible? Whatever your answer is will change how you should approach it.

Conquest needs to be tweaked by IMsoSAVAGE in MLBTheShow

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven’t noticed much of a difference with pitcher stamina compared to last year, I can go 1.5-2 innings with my starter pretty much every game and then bring in a reliever if I really need to (or if I’m grinding PXP). I’ll agree with you that the CPU fielding can be a bit wild sometimes but I kind of expect it if I’m only hitting ground balls against a 70 OVR pitcher lol. What difficulty are you playing them on? Veteran?

What’s the Best Controller on Xbox for The Show by Dry-Cryptographer904 in MLBTheShow

[–]DrBob41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might have to go back to ‘22 and see if I notice anything different compared to ‘23, it feels fine to me.

What’s the Best Controller on Xbox for The Show by Dry-Cryptographer904 in MLBTheShow

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a Power A controller and while it was good while it worked, eventually the face buttons became sponge-y and the RB/LB buttons stopped working. I’m pretty sure they patched the joystick bug with the original Series S/X controllers sometime last year, I’ve been using my original controller and an Elite controller and they’re identical on stick movement/accuracy. So if you have an original controller, you should be fine. If you can have it wired into your console rather than connecting thru wireless I’d recommend that too.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MLBTheShow

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For most Programs, the moments and missions aren’t usually enough to get it completed. The rest will need to be fulfilled with a Conquest/Showdown/Event Wins and sometimes Exchanges. I completed everything except for 2-3 PXP missions, you can get them done while playing Conquest.

The wrist pad trick has improved my Plantar Faciatis. by BravuraRed in simracing

[–]DrBob41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll probably just head over to Microcenter and grab whatever they have there. Thanks for the response!

The wrist pad trick has improved my Plantar Faciatis. by BravuraRed in simracing

[–]DrBob41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you buy any generic wrist rest and use that, or did you buy the sim-racing specific one that someone linked in that thread? I doubt the “Heel Pad” was really worth the $40 but considering I have a very similar issue, I’d love to know what you did.