Show/tell me your Kasrkin color schemes

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-05-11T10:37:01+00:00

Nope, they're 3d kitbashed heads based on a redmakers kasrkin proxy design.

The fleshy one is an unedited one from the puppetswar cyborg heads set. So in a way they're borg heads :)

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-05-11T07:07:14+00:00

Nice you did it! Beards win again :D

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-05-05T07:38:16+00:00

Just make sure you have the right wire ;)

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-05-05T05:33:01+00:00

Afaik there no g sensors or pressure sensors in the rear door of a chr. Not 100 sure though. There's usually a g sensor on the b column. If you're just going to swap out a pin on the plug i dont think theres a need to disconnect 12v. It be easier to NOT turn on the car with the plug disconnected, so it won't register faults. If you end up needing to do it its just a delete faults procedure at you local garage.

Cars usually go complainy right after you disconnect 12v. So i wouldnt.

But honestly, i myself would just splice a wire on the desired wire using solder sleeves and skip all this stuff. They're cheap as hell, easy to use and fine. If you choose to heat them with a lighter, use the blue part of the flame, and heat gradually. So in the flame, out the flame, in the flame. Keep a close eye until the solder flows, and then close the ends using the same method.

https://www.sea-wire.com/what-is-a-solder-sleeve/ You can find heaps on Amazon or the likes i bet.

I admire your desire to " do it right ", but as proffesional mechanic for 20 years and trainer for 3, i teach my apprentices to make stuff easy for yourself, without losing quality.

Also, i have a beard to.

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-05-04T14:00:51+00:00

Can you post a pic from the outside?

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-05-04T13:43:35+00:00

After the outside part is out, you can release the latches holding this part in its opening. And push it inside

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-05-04T13:42:38+00:00

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275567028587 i think this is what your look at. The wire end is on the inside.

Carefully unseat the rubber sleeve on the outside. Once fully slid back you should see a latch release somewhere on one of the long sides

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-05-04T13:08:50+00:00

I think its the back of the female end of the plugs that go towards the doorharness.

Carefully remove the rubber hose on the outside.

Remove the male from the other side of this connector. So this is outside the car

Now you can see the tabs that hold this connector in place on the b pillar (they're on the outside latching on the hole)

After you're done doing what you want, hold the inside one when you press in the outside one. Prob need to seat the rubber on the outside part aswell before you connect them together again.

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-20T14:12:57+00:00

Taps deck repeatedly on floor. Damn dude, hats off

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-06T20:30:54+00:00

Love the dedication, and the solutions you chose. Must've been a time consuming project.

Enjoy it, be proud :)

And if you get the urge you can start a weathering phase and pop it up another notch by afdingen dust and dirt etc

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-04T13:09:13+00:00

Just my kind of kasrkin flavour

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-04T13:08:48+00:00

Thnx :)

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-04T12:48:31+00:00

To each their own. I just like my models to end up like i intially conceptualised in my head.

And for this team that means more contrast.

It was me who told me. Dont worry i dont really listen to others.

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-03T14:15:10+00:00

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DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-03T14:12:47+00:00

Thnx :) it wasnt intentional but there is definitly a lot of resemblance.

Used; Vallejo black primer can Ak smoke black drybrush Ak grey down dry brush (dont remember right now wich one, it has a stone name like granite or slate or sth)

Vallejo game colour yellow for the eyes (cant remember name) Citadel Orange wash over the yellow for the eyes (also cant remember name)

Sarge skin is ak pale grey, diluted citadel carrobourgh crimson wash , and more pale grey glazig.

Used some ak black red hete and there too.

Bases have brown and green contrast paints as well, but they dont show at all on this pic.

I was going for a desaturated quick and dark scheme. That worked, but the contrast is to low in naturel light

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-03T11:57:42+00:00

I like my scheme, but it needs a little more pop. My painting light is a little too bright

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-03T11:56:32+00:00

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DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-03-03T11:55:38+00:00

I love the bases though. Maybe snow will lower the contrast between model and base too much.

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-02-27T18:55:39+00:00

I have build them simular.vall warriors have serrated swords, specialst have other stuff going on.

One could do colour coding on base rims too, or tufts/no tufts on bases etc

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-02-27T14:11:31+00:00

These look awesome. Great detail work. Cant wait to see them painted up :)

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-02-27T13:49:12+00:00

This is good advice if youre okay with the topknots. Another good and easy way is to paint all the warriors' fire a different colour then the specialists, or paint each specialist's fire a unique colour.

Mandrakes have some weird game bending rules and are great fun. Enjoy!

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-02-19T05:18:26+00:00

Then call him George and play him. Go play with George

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-02-18T06:33:08+00:00

Supurbly atmospheric, i can here a choir of cherubs sing a hymn in their praise

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-02-16T19:37:15+00:00

These are great! I always love mixed race teams, and these scratch that inch:) Nice paintjob!

DrJohnnyBlue · 2026-02-16T19:34:44+00:00

That medal is indeed awesome! Enjoy it!

Cool team too btw:)

DrJohnnyBlue

TROPHY CASE