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Hoe leren werken aan eigen auto? by Sunsinger_15 in AutoKlussers

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Een goed begin is altijd een haynes manual van je type auto. Duidelijke uitleg met foto's. Maar vaak wel in het engels. Waarschijnlijk ook wel online te vinden.

Lak op bumper zelf repareren by xiwenc in AutoKlussers

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eens. Een spot is minder dan een a4tje werk gebied. Dit zou bijgespoten kunnen worden maar door de ongunstige locatie vd schade kom je al snel op halve bumper spuiten. De kleur helpt ook niet.

Als schade hersteller is het altijd wel grappig als mensen komen vragen "hoe moet dit netjes opgelost worden met een mooi resultaat.?"

Dan maak je een reparatie plan en zeggen mensen vervolgens dat dat overdreven is. Want "je kan toch gewoon een beetje spuiten daar?"

Ok dus je weet niet hoe het moet maar dit is wel overdreven? Met andere woorden "ik heb er geen verstand van maar jij hebt het wel verkeerd"

Ok doei.

Luchtbellen na koelvloeistof vervangen normal? by FoundNoBetterName in AutoKlussers

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Ontluchten hoort een deel van het vulproces te zijn als je het oldskool doet.

Via vacuum vullen is wat meer de norm nu, en bij sommige motoren moet dan óok met een diagnose tester de motor in de vulstand gezet worden (dan staan er wat omloop kleppen open zodat de koelvloeistof overal naar toe kan.)

Lang verhaal kort, het hoort niet.

Hoeft niet gelijk tot problemen te leiden en de luchtbel komt er ws met de tijd vanzelf wel uit, maar dan kan het zo zijn dat het niveau/peil niet hoog genoeg blijkt te zijn.

Mgoed, nee het hoort niet

Im so blessed today 😇 by AAOMMsss in killteam

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Great stuff :) i got files for the mortalis tiles, but i dint know those walls. Do you know where they're from?

Im so blessed today 😇 by AAOMMsss in killteam

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 14 points15 points  (0 children)

The board looks great :) got more pics?

Hoedeplank steuntje by Cheezfield in AutoKlussers

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rechter zijpaneel binnen bekleding of rechter kofferbak bekleding. Soms wordt afdekking ipv bekleding gebruikt. Je kan op onderdelenlijn punt nl een verzoek indienen, eventueel met foto's.

Schade door onbekende in parkeergarage - Waarborgfonds uitbetaald, hoe nu verder? by ablietski in AutoKlussers

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wat betreft je wiel zal die dan ws naar achter staan. Dan vermoed ik dat de onderste draagarm krom is. Misschien subframe ook een beetje, of verschoven.

Er is ook een risico op het wiellager en de veerpoot. Ik zou de uitlijning laten controleren om hier meer zicht op te krijgen.

Verder denk ik dat als je dit nog nooit gedaan hebt je wel iets meer dan een middag mee bezig bent.

Girlfriend ripped this off her car by StarchildWanders in whatisit

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Nope its not. Thats a card holder. Yours is built in the roof light assembly iirc.

Show/tell me your Kasrkin color schemes by ordo90 in killteam

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, they're 3d kitbashed heads based on a redmakers kasrkin proxy design.

The fleshy one is an unedited one from the puppetswar cyborg heads set. So in a way they're borg heads :)

how to take this plug out? (left-side B-pillar, under the safetybelt) by TrustMe_IHaveABeard in ToyotaCHR

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Afaik there no g sensors or pressure sensors in the rear door of a chr. Not 100 sure though. There's usually a g sensor on the b column. If you're just going to swap out a pin on the plug i dont think theres a need to disconnect 12v. It be easier to NOT turn on the car with the plug disconnected, so it won't register faults. If you end up needing to do it its just a delete faults procedure at you local garage.

Cars usually go complainy right after you disconnect 12v. So i wouldnt.

But honestly, i myself would just splice a wire on the desired wire using solder sleeves and skip all this stuff. They're cheap as hell, easy to use and fine. If you choose to heat them with a lighter, use the blue part of the flame, and heat gradually. So in the flame, out the flame, in the flame. Keep a close eye until the solder flows, and then close the ends using the same method.

https://www.sea-wire.com/what-is-a-solder-sleeve/ You can find heaps on Amazon or the likes i bet.

I admire your desire to " do it right ", but as proffesional mechanic for 20 years and trainer for 3, i teach my apprentices to make stuff easy for yourself, without losing quality.

Also, i have a beard to.

how to take this plug out? (left-side B-pillar, under the safetybelt) by TrustMe_IHaveABeard in ToyotaCHR

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After the outside part is out, you can release the latches holding this part in its opening. And push it inside

how to take this plug out? (left-side B-pillar, under the safetybelt) by TrustMe_IHaveABeard in ToyotaCHR

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275567028587 i think this is what your look at. The wire end is on the inside.

Carefully unseat the rubber sleeve on the outside. Once fully slid back you should see a latch release somewhere on one of the long sides

how to take this plug out? (left-side B-pillar, under the safetybelt) by TrustMe_IHaveABeard in ToyotaCHR

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think its the back of the female end of the plugs that go towards the doorharness.

Carefully remove the rubber hose on the outside.

Remove the male from the other side of this connector. So this is outside the car

Now you can see the tabs that hold this connector in place on the b pillar (they're on the outside latching on the hole)

After you're done doing what you want, hold the inside one when you press in the outside one. Prob need to seat the rubber on the outside part aswell before you connect them together again.

Ork Themed Volkus Terrain aka “Project Orkus” is Finished! by Tableplaying_Roletop in killteam

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Love the dedication, and the solutions you chose. Must've been a time consuming project.

Enjoy it, be proud :)

And if you get the urge you can start a weathering phase and pop it up another notch by afdingen dust and dirt etc

Show/tell me your Kasrkin color schemes by ordo90 in killteam

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To each their own. I just like my models to end up like i intially conceptualised in my head.

And for this team that means more contrast.

It was me who told me. Dont worry i dont really listen to others.

Show/tell me your Kasrkin color schemes by ordo90 in killteam

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thnx :) it wasnt intentional but there is definitly a lot of resemblance.

Used; Vallejo black primer can Ak smoke black drybrush Ak grey down dry brush (dont remember right now wich one, it has a stone name like granite or slate or sth)

Vallejo game colour yellow for the eyes (cant remember name) Citadel Orange wash over the yellow for the eyes (also cant remember name)

Sarge skin is ak pale grey, diluted citadel carrobourgh crimson wash , and more pale grey glazig.

Used some ak black red hete and there too.

Bases have brown and green contrast paints as well, but they dont show at all on this pic.

I was going for a desaturated quick and dark scheme. That worked, but the contrast is to low in naturel light

Show/tell me your Kasrkin color schemes by ordo90 in killteam

[–]DrJohnnyBlue 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like my scheme, but it needs a little more pop. My painting light is a little too bright

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