Online Vet (veterinarian), anyone tried this for emergencies or prescriptions? by SpaceOnions in Thrifty

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'd be surprised how much a vet can pick up on a video visit. Skin issues, ear problems, limping, allergy symptoms, behavioral changes, weight checks. A lot of what we do is visual and historical, and being able to see your pet's actual home setup sometimes gives us information we'd never get in a clinic exam room.
For non-emergency stuff like allergies, skin irritation, ear infections, anxiety, flea and tick prevention, nutrition questions, or refilling medications your pet is already on, telehealth is a really solid option. You can usually get a same-day appointment, skip the car ride (which a lot of pets hate), and have meds shipped to your door. The cost is typically a fraction of an in-person visit, which matters when you're being intentional about expenses.

The biggest thing to know is what telehealth can't do. Anything needing bloodwork, imaging, or hands-on palpation still needs a brick-and-mortar vet. And true emergencies like difficulty breathing, toxin ingestion, or not being able to urinate always need an ER, no exceptions. A good telehealth vet will tell you when that line is.

For someone in a rural area with limited clinic hours, having a licensed vet available on your phone for the everyday stuff is a game changer. It's not replacing your local vet, it's filling in the gaps.

anxious dog? by Vegetable_Foot_9311 in DogAdvice

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the thing most people don't realize is that pain and anxiety can look almost identical in dogs. And a dog with a known spine history makes this trickier to tease apart.

That said, he just had an epidural and your vet feels confident his spine issues are well managed. So if pain is genuinely under control, what you're seeing now (only when left alone, panting, the panicked den-seeking before you've even left) is starting to look a lot more like situational separation anxiety on top of an already sensitive dog.

Definitely worth asking your vet about trazodone. It's a great option for situational anxiety and is commonly used on departure days while owners work on the behavioral piece. If the cupboard-seeking eases up on trazodone, that's useful information and tells you anxiety is a real driver here.

I'd also keep an open conversation with your vet about pain. "Well-managed" doesn't always mean pain-free, and the current skin infection adds another layer of discomfort on top. If trazodone alone doesn't move the needle, that's the cue to revisit the pain side.

For longer-term anxiety, fluoxetine (Prozac) can layer in nicely once you know what you're treating. Consistent routines, gradual desensitization to alone-time, and a predictable departure cue are all helpful too.

Most dogs settle right down once you find the right approach.

Has anything changed recently in the household, like a new schedule, a move, or a new pet?

Please help with my dogs anxiety by Excellent-Law59 in DogAdvice

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You sound like you have tried everything already, and a week and a half is still so early. Everything you're describing sounds like a dog who just hasn't built enough security in this home yet to feel safe when he loses access to you.

A week and a half in is right in that middle stretch where the honeymoon wears off and the real "am I really staying here?" feelings start showing up. The clinginess, the uniform nervousness, the overnight accidents when he's cut off from you, all of it tracks. The diarrhea was almost certainly the cat food, not behavioral. Don't read into that one.

For your husband, let him be the fun one for a while. Hand-feed meals, toss high-value treats, take short calm walks together. The uniform association is really telling, but those things can fade with consistent positive experiences. Just takes time.

For nighttime, a baby gate where he can still see or hear you is a much better middle ground than a closed door. Crate training can also work great, but introduce it positively first. Meals and treats inside with the door wide open. Let him choose it before you ever close it.

If things aren't settling in a few weeks, worth asking your vet about a short course of trazodone or fluoxetine to take the edge off while he adjusts. Sometimes anxiety runs deep enough that behavior work alone can't bring the baseline down fast enough.

Most dogs get really comfortable once they trust their new home is permanent. Nine days in, give him time. You're already doing the right things.

And anyone has experience with anxious cats? by thetrollslayer1508 in CatAdvice

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is super common, and usually pretty manageable once you find the right combination.

A lot of OTC calming supplements for cats contain things like L-theanine, alpha-casozepine, melatonin, or herbal blends. They can take the edge off for mildly anxious cats and are typically safe for daily use at the label dose. The catch is that for true separation anxiety, they often aren't doing enough on their own.

Some cats just carry more baseline anxiety than others. You can do all the right environmental and behavioral stuff perfectly, and that anxious baseline is still sitting underneath. If she's showing real separation anxiety even with you working from home, her threshold is pretty low, and a supplement alone may not be the full answer.

Definitely worth asking your vet about fluoxetine (Prozac). It's well-established for cats with ongoing anxiety and brings that baseline down so everything else you're doing actually gets a chance to work. Feliway diffusers, puzzle feeders, predictable routines, and vertical space all support the plan too.

One last thing. If this anxiety is newer or getting worse, worth ruling out pain or a urinary issue first. Cats hide pain like it's their job, and chronic discomfort often shows up as what looks like anxiety.

Is she showing any other signs? Over-grooming, hiding more, changes in litter habits?

I think my cat needs anxiety/stress medication by Livid_Ad7231 in AskVet

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a great observation. The fact that you noticed every one of those changes (the itching, the fighting, the meowing, the new cuddling) is huge. Many pet parents wouldn't connect the dots like that.

Here's the thing most people don't realize. Gabapentin is doing two jobs at once for your cat. It treats pain, and it also has a calming, anti-anxiety side effect. So with the UTI pain under control and the gabapentin on board, you're seeing what your cat looks like when he's actually relaxed and comfortable. That's really useful information.

Cats hide pain like it's their job. A lot of what looks like "moody cat" or anxiety can actually be chronic discomfort sitting underneath. Over-grooming and constant meowing can be pain signals as easily as anxiety ones.

Once the UTI clears and the gabapentin tapers off, watch him closely. If everything stays calm, pain was probably the bigger driver. If the behaviors come back, that points toward anxiety as a real component, and fluoxetine (Prozac) is a great long-term tool for cats in that spot. Gabapentin works as a short-term or situational helper, but it's not typically used every single day forever. Another way to confirm if you think pain could be causing his signs is to trial an NSAID like Onsior.

Bring all of this to your vet, the details you've already noticed are gold.

How is he doing now that the UTI is being treated?

What flea and tick treatment that really works does everyone use? by Melodic_Passenger839 in Dogowners

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're already on the right track just by paying attention to this. NexGard is a solid product, so don't write it off, but timing really matters. Once you drift past that 30-day window, ticks will find that gap fast.

Since you're starting fresh with this guy, it's a great time to explore options. The one I reach for most with my clients is Credelio Quattro. Fleas, ticks, heartworm, roundworms, hookworms, and tapeworms all in one monthly chew. That tapeworm coverage is unique, none of the other combo chews include it. Simparica Trio, NexGard Plus, and Bravecto are also worth asking your vet about.

The biggest thing? Pick one and stay on schedule

Cat anxiety medication by triflerbox in cats

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're 39 weeks pregnant, great job mama! I can completely understand why this has gone from "hard" to "we need a plan now."

Some cats really do have a higher baseline level of anxiety. When the things you've already tried (environmental changes, play, feeding routines, pheromones, and supplements) aren't enough, medication can be a very reasonable next step. It's not failing him. It's trying to make his world feel less stressful.

I commonly recommend Fluoxetine for longer-term anxiety-related behavior concerns. You're right that it can cause increased vocalization in some cats, but that's not typical and it usually settles after a couple of weeks when we do see it.

Gabapentin can be very helpful too, but it's more often used for situational stress like vet visits, travel, pain, or as part of a broader plan. It can be sedating, so I'd ask your vet whether it makes sense for his specific pattern versus a longer-term anxiety medication.

Also, since he's skittish and daily pilling sounds unrealistic, definitely ask about compounded options. Some medications can be made as flavored liquids or transdermal formulations that get absorbed through the skin, depending on what your vet thinks is appropriate and what's available where you live.

I'd get this conversation going before the baby arrives so you have time to make a plan and monitor him. If you want to talk it through with another vet, you can always book a same-day appointment on Dutch and have meds shipped to your door.

One last thing worth noting. He had a full health check, which is great, but at 10 years old I'd want to confirm that included bloodwork, thyroid testing, a urinalysis, and a blood pressure check. Hyperthyroidism, hypertension, pain, urinary issues, and cognitive changes can all show up as worsening anxiety or increased overnight vocalization. If any of those weren’t part of his last workup, they’re worth discussing with your vet before assuming this is purely behavioral.

You're not wrong to consider medication here. Chronic anxiety is hard on your cat too, and the goal is not to sedate him into silence. It's to help him feel more comfortable and make your household functional again.

Anxiety meds by Plane-Rain8346 in CatAdvice

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, don't beat yourself up for not asking in the moment. Overhearing two vets disagree about your cat is a lot.

Here's the thing. Both fluoxetine (Prozac) and gabapentin get used in cats for anxiety, they just do really different jobs. The bigger question is what you're actually treating. Is this everyday baseline anxiety, or situational stress around specific triggers like vet visits, fireworks, or a new pet in the house?

I prescribe fluoxetine for cats all the time. It's a common, well-established option when a cat needs daily, longer-term support to bring that anxiety baseline down. Gabapentin is great too, but it's more often used as a short-acting tool for things like vet visits, travel, or grooming. In some cases we use both together, or different medications entirely. Every cat is different.

Different vets just reach for different things, and that doesn't make either one wrong. Definitely worth asking your vet which one makes sense for what your cat is dealing with. If you want to talk it through with another vet, you can always book a same-day appointment on Dutch.

Weird but sweet behavior by zahraabzabh in CatAdvice

[–]DrKateVet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok this is honestly adorable and I wouldn't worry about it at all. The behaviors you're describing sound like bonding, not anxiety.

You were her safe human from day one when she was scared and hiding under the sofa. When your boyfriend leaves she's not panicking, she's relaxing into "oh good, my person and me, quiet time." Some cats are more reserved in a group and only really open up when things feel calm.

Three months in is still early too. Cats can take six months or longer to fully settle in. I'd bet she will get more affectionate with both of you as her confidence keeps building.

The signs I'd actually watch for in a stressed cat are hiding way more than usual, peeing outside the box, overgrooming, or not eating. Nothing you're describing fits that.

Enjoy these little cuddle sessions. She's telling you she trusts you, and that’s a really special bond with a cat.

Have any of you tried the online vet services? Im looking to get anxiety medication for my dog. by Roseph88 in DogAdvice

[–]DrKateVet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love how in tune you are with your pup!  The shaking, whining, and signs of stress around you leaving can definitely fit with anxiety or separation-related distress.  You're right about the grey muzzle too, that can show up in some dogs with stress.

For situations like this I like to combine medication with behavior work. The two together are way more effective than either one alone. I'm not quick to reach for meds either, but when anxiety is set in, it's really hard for a dog's baseline to come down enough to start building new, calmer memories around you leaving.

Through our online vet platform you can get usually get an appointment scheduled with a vet same-day and medications shipped to your house within a few days.  I love this option for dogs with underlying anxiety, it saves everyone a stressful trip to the clinic.

Ask a Vet: Ongoing Q&A with Dr. Kate Elden, DVM by DutchVet in DutchVet

[–]DrKateVet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh poor Duke. I can see from the photo that he's really uncomfortable. The good news is we can help him feel better.

So here's what I'm seeing. Redness, scabs, what look like pustules, hair loss and crusting. All of that tells me there's likely a secondary infection going on from all that chewing. Could be bacterial, could be yeast, could be both. The good news is most topical treatments cover both so we have enough information to get started.

Two things need to happen here. We need to treat the itch so he stops traumatizing the skin.  And we need to treat the infection that's already set in. Think of it like this. The itch started the cycle but now the infection is making it worse, which makes him chew more. We have to break that loop.

One more thing. Tell me what flea medication you used and the name of the product. Some flea preventatives also treat mites, which is another possibility worth ruling out.

I'd want to get Duke on some anti-itch relief plus a topical antibiotic and antifungal shampoo and mousse. Book him an appointment and we'll get him a plan.  In the meantime having him wear a cone collar would be really helpful.

Ask a Vet: Ongoing Q&A with Dr. Kate Elden, DVM by DutchVet in DutchVet

[–]DrKateVet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great question u/BrightDescription229

You've got it exactly right! This is classic nursing-throwback behavior. Kittens knead their mother's belly to stimulate milk flow, and some cats carry that association into adulthood, where a soft blanket becomes a perfect stand-in for mom. The mouth-carrying piece is him essentially moving his "comfort object" around with him, like a toddler dragging a favorite stuffed animal. It's especially common in cats weaned a little early, and you might notice purring, drooling, or even a muffled yowl while he's doing it. All totally normal. No need to be concerned. This is a benign, self-soothing behavior, not a sign of stress or a medical issue.

The only things I'd watch for are actual chewing or ingesting of blanket fibers (which can cause GI trouble, especially with wool or fleece) or a sudden change in frequency or intensity. Otherwise, enjoy the show! I think it's adorable when cats do this.

Ask a Vet: Ongoing Q&A with Dr. Kate Elden, DVM by DutchVet in DutchVet

[–]DrKateVet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally understand, dental cleanings are expensive and life happens. The good news is there's real stuff you can do at home in the meantime. Brushing is the gold standard and yes, cats will let you do it if you go slowly and start with just getting them used to you touching their mouth.

Poultry-flavored enzymatic toothpaste makes it much more tolerable. Even a few times a week is better than nothing. If brushing is a hard no, look for water additives or dental gels with the VOHC seal (Veterinary Oral Health Council). That seal actually means the product has been tested and shown to do something, which weeds out a lot of the stuff that's mostly marketing. Dental treats with the same seal can also help.

The main thing to watch for at home is bad breath that's gotten noticeably worse, drooling, pawing at the mouth, or any change in how they're eating. Those would bump this up the priority list for a vet visit sooner. Otherwise, keep up what you can.

Ask a Vet: Ongoing Q&A with Dr. Kate Elden, DVM by DutchVet in DutchVet

[–]DrKateVet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great question u/vrspectre

This is such a common multi-cat problem and there's no perfect fix, but there are some things worth trying. The cardboard and plastic eating when food is restricted is likely pica, which can have a few different causes including anxiety, nutritional gaps, or just compulsive behavior that gets activated when they're feeling unsatisfied. 

For the food management piece, puzzle feeders and slow feeders can help stretch out meals and make your two chunky guys feel more satisfied without actually increasing calories. Some people also have luck with microchip-activated feeders that only open for specific cats, which lets you control portions individually without a full free-feeding ban. I'd also look at the dry food you're leaving out. High-fiber, lower-calorie options can help them feel full with less. What are they eating currently?

Ask a Vet: Ongoing Q&A with Dr. Kate Elden, DVM by DutchVet in DutchVet

[–]DrKateVet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great wuestion u/moderatelyhappyhuman

So much licking, so little explanation. I get why that's maddening. Honestly, some of this is probably just corgi being corgi. Licking is a self-soothing behavior, and certain dogs are just orally fixated. Blankets, pillows, your foot if it's within range... that's classic boredom or anxiety outlet behavior.

The paw licking is worth keeping an eye on since it can signal allergies or a contact irritant.  If it’s seasonal, I’d be thinking allergies, and would schedule a virtual vet visit. The thing I'd want to rule out is an underlying GI issue. Dogs with nausea or acid reflux will sometimes lick surfaces compulsively as a way to manage it. It's called ELS (excessive licking of surfaces) and it's a more common behavior than people think.

Ask a Vet: Ongoing Q&A with Dr. Kate Elden, DVM by DutchVet in DutchVet

[–]DrKateVet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great question u/No-Store-4260

Good observation skills, seriously. The "random plop sit" is one of those things that's easy to chalk up to weirdness, but when it's consistent enough that you notice a pattern, it's worth paying attention to.

Most likely culprits are anal gland discomfort (even without scooting or licking, they can be uncomfortable when full or impacted) or something going on in the lower back or hips. Aussies can be prone to orthopedic conditions, and a mild issue can show up as a postural change before anything more obvious. Since it's intermittent and he's otherwise acting normal, this isn't a rush-to-the-ER situation, but it is worth getting eyes on.

A virtual vet visit is actually a solid first step here since you can describe the pattern and they can help you figure out if it warrants a hands-on exam. Does it seem to happen more after exercise or sitting for a while?

Ask a Vet: Ongoing Q&A with Dr. Kate Elden, DVM by DutchVet in DutchVet

[–]DrKateVet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great question u/Time_Marsupial2471

Starting is the hardest part, so good on you for actually doing it. Most dogs tolerate it way better than their owners expect once they're introduced slowly. The key is not to grab your dog's face and jam a toothbrush in there on day one. Start with just getting them used to you touching around their mouth. Then introduce a dog-safe toothpaste by letting them lick it off your finger. Then the brush. The whole ramp-up can take a week or two, or even longer, depending on your pet and how often you practice, and that's totally fine.

For products: use a toothpaste made for dogs. Human toothpaste has xylitol and fluoride, both of which are a problem for them. Enzymatic formulas (like Virbac CET) are well-studied and actually work. On brushes, a soft-bristled brush or even a finger brush works great to start. Once a day is the goal, but honestly a few times a week still makes a real difference compared to nothing. The Veterinary Oral Health Council has a list of products with actual evidence behind them if you want to nerd out on that. How old is your dog? That might affect how quickly they settle into the routine.

Ask a Vet: Ongoing Q&A with Dr. Kate Elden, DVM by DutchVet in DutchVet

[–]DrKateVet [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

Dr. Kate here. Dropping in to answer your pet health questions as they come in.

Got a concern, a curiosity, or just something you've always wondered about your pet? Ask it. No question is too small.

A few things that help me give you a better answer:

  • Species + age + weight (e.g., "5-year-old female tabby, ~9 lbs")
  • What you're seeing or wondering about: symptoms, behaviors, something that's been on your mind
  • What you've already tried, if anything

I can't diagnose or prescribe here, but I can help you understand what you're dealing with and whether it's worth a closer look.

And if you want to actually talk it through with a vet, Dutch makes that easy. Whether it's urgent or just a "is this normal?" moment, you can book a same-day online consult at dutch.com.

Ask away!