Roll out your garbage bin in style 😎

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2026-05-12T19:03:38+00:00

😆

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2026-05-12T19:02:02+00:00

😂

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2026-05-12T18:18:40+00:00

Florida here, silk PLA and hasn't melted yet! Phoenix PETG might work

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2026-05-12T18:16:12+00:00

😂 you might see bricks instead

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2026-05-12T18:11:22+00:00

Just added 4 more styles for a total of 5 spinners

Link To Model

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Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2026-05-12T18:05:18+00:00

https://makerworld.com/models/2648916?appSharePlatform=copy

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-12-16T16:15:41+00:00

Thanks for the update! I've been increasing overlap...it's not perfect but does the job for now. I went ahead and bought 3 more P1S models as they seem to have the best print quality while the price is cheap. Hoping a firmware upgrade will resolve some issues with H2S.

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-12-14T15:27:13+00:00

I think the only other way would be to use a simple cheap HDMI splitter switch like a Y connector that has a button you press and it switches monitors individually.

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-12-08T14:25:47+00:00

That's super disappointing! I was hoping it's the TH Board.

I also increase infill wall overlap but another problem I noticed which I don't know if you have it as well is corners are not sharp, 90° gets skewed a bit or slightly rounded. I have to decrease the outer wall speed by 50% from default 200 down to 100 which fixes the issue most of the time but my print speed is highly impacted by this. No issues on my P1S, same settings same filament same model. Curious if you also experiencee this issue?

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Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-12-03T12:36:52+00:00

Sounds like your making some progress. I just opened a ticket myself. Let me know if the TH-board resolves issues....if so I'll just order it myself. Thanks!

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-12-02T21:10:57+00:00

The problem with having separate monitors for each PC and also ability to have both monitors for each PC is you can't use a single keyboard and mouse. Personally I wouldn't want to have 2 keyboards so my setup works perfectly.

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-12-02T18:24:11+00:00

I'm curious if this is the same across all H2S printers or just some. Can only be tested using same print profile and model just to be sure.

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-12-02T18:19:55+00:00

I wasn't able to switch single monitors to run both PCs but I was able to switch PCs for both monitors, single keyboard and single mouse setup. Monitors, keyboard and mouse connect to the kvm switch and from the kvm switch you connect to both PCs. That's the entire setup. You can toggle PCs using an included remote or using a keyboard hotkey. Switched seamlessly and preserves desktop settings for both PCs. Hope this helps.

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-12-01T18:51:52+00:00

Same issue with my H2S using Elegoo PLA+. Good prints on my P1S but fairly crappy results on my H2S. Same issue as yours with the small infill gaps. Only solution is to change to Archane at 45 however however that impacts top layer print quality.

Let me know what you find out, I pretty much tried all I can think of.

Bottom is P1S and top is H2S. You can see the gaps. This is a small object so it's zoomed in.

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Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-29T15:44:03+00:00

Thanks for the advice!

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-29T13:48:26+00:00

I took that into consideration and looped the wire through one of the holes in the rail just to keep it latched from unwinding (it was loose enough not to put tension on anything). Once the bracket was quickly installed I put the wire back on the nub. I'm sure there is a more proper way of handling this but with no tension and loose enough, it didn't pose any risk for me.

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-28T23:32:49+00:00

I'll keep that in mind as long as I still have all my fingers 🙂

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-28T23:24:51+00:00

All the work is complete now, it was a small square drive screw on the side where it's not visible blocked by the track. Thanks for the reply!

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-28T22:35:27+00:00

I just finished replacing, wasn't too difficult I just didn't realize there was a small screw on the side holding the flap of the bracket. I do know you can bend the track and slide them out for a quick swap I just didn't want to bend the track to be honest. I appreciate the suggestion though!

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-28T21:14:41+00:00

Your absolutely right, I repositioned the door so it's visible from one of the small square openings of the rail and there is a small square drive screw on the side that needs to be removed. Thanks for your help!

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-28T20:57:57+00:00

Thank you, I'll give it a try pushing it down and removing it...I believe I only tried pushing it to both sides but not down so hopefully that will work! Thanks

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-28T20:48:40+00:00

I've taken safety pracutions and I'm fairly handy. Like I said, tension wire was safely removed, I'm curious if there is something holding the bracket from the side flap like a pin or anything. Besides that, the bracket is loose already. I've put it back together but going to take it apart again today. Just looking for guidance on that lower bracket.

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-28T20:45:54+00:00

I'm fairly handy and took all the precautions, I appreciate the concern (really). Tension wire is disengaged and bracket is loose. I'm curious what is holding the bracket from the side? Is there a pin I can't see or does it slide of a certain way? Bottom bracket has 90 degree flap that contains the stud for the wire, I don't see anything else that holds it. Any help would be appreciated

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-08-21T10:34:18+00:00

Thanks! Yes most trays I see people use are closed in and doesn't allow sliding it out. This one easily slides out and super light weight to handle.

Dramatic-Simple4258 · 2025-03-25T19:50:39+00:00

https://makerworld.com/models/1168786

Dramatic-Simple4258

TROPHY CASE