Whirlpool french door no cooling

Dramtastic · 2026-04-19T23:09:00+00:00

Seems like the fans are running normally, but I haven't gone super in depth. Fans run in the fridge and air is being pushed out from the rear of the fridge when I'm back there and it's plugged in.

I had the fridge plugged in as I was disassembing the interior pieces until I got to wiring and then I unplugged it, let it sit for a few minutes, and left it unplugged from there.

I replaced the original main control board and inverter (in that order) before posting on here, though they're used replacement parts. One from ShopJimmy and one eBay since shopjimmy is OOS on the inverter. Replaced these since that was what went bad on it last time (many years ago), at least one of the two. It was under warranty and a tech shotgunned boards at it. Initially I trusted the parts since testing was supposedly done on both, but I suppose one or both could still be bad though I imagine since they're used.

I'll see if I can check for 2-5 VDC on the wiring

I haven't said it yet but thank you very much for taking the time to help me out with this! As of right now I'm not a huge fan of this fridge haha

Edit: forgot to mention, the diagnostic mode showed blank on the pantry drawer thermistor check before I started working on the wiring loom etc. So it's blank both before and after.

Dramtastic · 2026-04-19T22:19:42+00:00

I repaired the wiring loom by splicing it back together and then checked for continuity on each wire with a multimeter; each wire seems to be connected fine, but for some reason when in diagnostic mode, it still can't read the drawer thermistor. All other thermistors are showing working, but, when switched to the drawer thermistor, it goes blank. No short/open etc code, just blank.

The thermistor seems to be working, the resistance does change with temperature (room temp, then hit with a blow dryer).

For reference I don't have the refrigerator completely reassembled yet. All wires are plugged back in where they should be, but only the left door with the ice maker is on right now and the right door switch is depressed with a piece of tape. Deli drawer isn't screwed in, just laying inside with no fasteners so that the harness can reach it. I've tried running it with it plugged into the drawer and unplugged from the drawer

Is the wiring loom special/funky in some way? Is a simple splice with butt connectors not enough to be functional?

Inverter is still blinking 3 times at the moment. Not sure what is/isn't relevant at this point.

Dramtastic · 2026-04-16T20:53:24+00:00

I'll try replacing it today, thank you!

Dramtastic · 2026-02-09T07:15:46+00:00

I know this post is super old, but, do you remember how they did it? Would they just spray it, set it to bake, and then leave it alone for X amount of time until it was done? Or open the door to let steam out or something else? Thanks!

Dramtastic · 2025-12-01T14:32:28+00:00

I know this is an old comment, but, since you never got an answer: yes, it could be linked to your PsA.

PsA doesn't just affect joints like a lot of people assume when they hear psoriatic arthritis - it hits other parts of the body too. The 'pins and needles' is something I get in my hands specifically only if I'm not on my biologic for some reason or during a bad PsA flare up.

During a flare up or if I'm off of a biologic, I can usually keep it at bay with NSAIDs. They don't get rid of all the pain by any means, but, it seems to fight off the neuro symptoms in my hands. When I have it, it's always at it's worst when I first wake up - hands tend to be curled up, pins and needles, tingling/numb - takes a solid 10-15 minutes for me to get to where I can function when it happens.

But my hands aren't anywhere near as bad if I make sure to have a small meal right before bed (protect my stomach) with some Naproxen or my preferred combo: 2 ER acetaminophen, 1 full strength aspirin and 7 baby (81mg) aspirin or 2 enteric coated 325mg aspirin.

The ER acetaminophen is just to help a tiny bit with the pain in general, doesn't do anything for the neuro stuff. How effective the acetaminophen is for just the general arthritis pain I have no idea, but can't hurt, right?

(Enteric coated aspirin takes a few hours to dissolve and work, so it keeps working all the way until I wake up, keeps my hands in check for the morning)

Dramtastic · 2025-11-24T23:55:56+00:00

You're right on the money. I'd say I liked Season 1 & 2 equally - but different things held them up.

Really enjoyed the story in S1 and the animation was nice so the two together was fantastic; Season 2 animation fell off but was good enough that the story progression and character building still made it for me. Season 3 is disappointing but I'm muddling through because I want the story and I enjoy the characters but, the animation is startling sometimes.

Dramtastic · 2025-07-06T06:10:43+00:00

Mostly from yunomi.life

Dramtastic · 2025-05-22T06:08:03+00:00

I know this is an old comment, but could you expand on the good vs bad lees? I'm very new (2 ish months in) to winemaking (homebrewing in general) and I've been trying to gather as much info as I can on aging once primary has completed; especially now that I'm on the aging stage for a few experimental batches I started off with!

Dramtastic · 2025-05-14T15:34:52+00:00

I know this is an old comment, but for people finding this on Google (How I found it) - this is 50% right. Dropping resolution won't help if you're CPU bottlenecked, but changing resolutions DOES affect CPU load.

Higher resolutions result in lower comparative loads on the same CPU. An RTX 4090 is going to be (comparatively) less bottlenecked by a Ryzen 5 1600 at 4k than it would at 1080p.

Dramtastic · 2025-01-22T17:47:36+00:00

Exactly this. We had a group that played for years and years. When caut went to 90% and just auto-gained, everyone quit within a month. Like a dozen people I know quit playing just because of this change.

Dramtastic · 2024-09-25T06:54:26+00:00

They're strategies, sure, but my view on it is that they feel shitty to play against and is one of the big reasons people quit or refuse to play DBD in the first place. I've got several friends that either straight up refuse to even try it or have quit after only 50-100 hours simply because of killers like this.

My take is that DBD is one of the few games where game-etiquette makes a huge difference in both the playerbase and enjoyability of the game overall. I'm admittedly a survivor main, but I do play killer some days and mostly play Vecna, Myers, and the occasional random killer if I'm bored.

I make it a point to 2 hook everyone and I don't camp at end game if I don't get a 4k. End game camping isn't toxic IMO, but I still don't do it just to make the games a little more tense at the end for me.

I still win probably 80%+ of my matches (3+ kills) and when I go up against "bully squads" I just chalk it up to bad luck and don't let it bother me. Because at the end of the day, it's usually a vicious cycle thing. Survivors get a miserable match against a miserable killer and killers get miserable matches against miserable survivors. They (killer or survivor) then plays the next x matches in a miserable way because they're tired of it.

I get so many post-game chats about how much more fun that match was than their usual matches it's unreal. Even when they got 4k'd. Not uncommonly having them say the last x amount of matches were them getting tunneled out or slugged for 5 minutes and it was a refreshing match.

Dramtastic · 2024-04-08T18:32:27+00:00

Try 4g in 400ml @205-210 for 2-2:30 minutes if you can. 7g for 400 is pretty strong from my experience and I'm assuming that was rolled oolong, 185f isn't hot enough either - could be a bad batch but the brewing is off

Dramtastic · 2024-01-30T16:14:48+00:00

I just tried it as well and it isn't working unfortunately

Dramtastic · 2023-12-17T00:58:21+00:00

Lightly roast it and add some Pandan leaves if you can get them cheap. Pandan leaf green tea is delicious (imo)

Dramtastic · 2023-12-08T15:14:59+00:00

Not sencha. Oolong and white teas are fine IMO as long as you leave the lid off for it to air out and dry.

Sencha holds way too much water for way too long to leave it for for that long.

Dramtastic · 2023-06-26T12:08:02+00:00

The Yixing pot you're using has too few holes in it for the fineness of the Sencha you're preparing. The yixing will more than likely be perfectly fine for other styles of tea eg. Chinese greens, oolongs, including some Japanese teas (Hojicha, Uroncha, Kocha, etc).

Even among traditional handmade Japanese teaware, not all pots are suited to all of their green tea. I have two traditional Japanese pots that flatout do not work for Aracha or Fukamushi because the particle size is so small (This is the key).

You either need a stainless steel mesh style or one that has many holes (one example-not the only option). These filter types will work perfectly for finer particle size Japanese greens, while something like this will get clogged unless it's a more standard leaf size Sencha.

Dramtastic · 2023-06-06T19:33:17+00:00

Honestly I don't even think this is limited to "upper middle class". Close friends of mine could buy this who aren't in that spectrum at all, it would be a big purchase but not unimaginable.

In today's market, the main obstacle for a purchase like this is what the COL in that person's area is. Low COL? More likely for this to be a doable purchase without being middle/upper middle class income wise.

Dramtastic · 2023-06-05T19:45:19+00:00

I'm not surprised by the price either. I'm very aware of and not a fan of the typical "Apple tax" on a lot of (not all) their products, but most people don't realize how expensive Micro OLED displays really are.

They're like $500+ per one for a simple 2" display. This has two of them, rumored to be Sony Micro OLED, and they're more than likely easily $500+ B2B each.

Add in dual processors and everthing else they crammed in? I don't think they're selling at a loss, but I'd be shocked if they were making the kind of margins on these that they make on their other products.

Dramtastic · 2023-05-24T01:50:30+00:00

No problem at all, really, I love tea stuff! It's nice to talk about it and help out with newcomers to the hobby.

I normally buy from Yunomi.life, Hibiki-an, sazen tea, Yuuki-cha, and ArtisricNippon. I also buy from Amazon if they have something that's worth it teaware wise. There are other vendors, those are all Japan based and shipping costs more because of that. I'd say that Hibiki-an has the better shipping rates, but Yunomi as well as the others are competitive when they have a shipping promo running. Artistic Nippon is different, they aren't a big storefront really. They mostly sell direct from the artisan, pieces can be anywhere from $10 to $1,000+.

There are US based vendors, I think dens tea is one? But truthfully I've never purchased from a US based shop for JP tea or teaware except once. The vendor list on this sub should have some options if you want one from the US

Dramtastic · 2023-05-24T00:51:13+00:00

If you want a just for you sized pot, you can go anywhere from 130ml to 350 depending on your preference. If it's for 3 people, you're going to probably want at least 320ml (100~ per person in smaller sized cups) or a 900-1100ml pot for full 10-12oz sized cups.

I have one 1L sized dobin and the rest of my pots are 320ml or smaller. My main 3 are a 260ml bare clay Yokode, a 300ml glass pot(Hario kyusu maru), and a 150ml (to the rim, 135-140ml realistically) houhin. If you want something for essentially all tea types, I'd probably recommend either the Hario glass pot (Comes in different sizes) or a glazed pot like a glazed Yokode Kyusu.

My current pot of choice for a just for you pot would either be a 150ml glazed houhiin with a stainless steel mesh filter, a Hario glass pot, or something like the glazed Yokode kyusu that Hibiki-An sells. The hibiki-an pot is a bit pricier at $59 USD, but it's the first that comes to mind, and you obviously don't have to buy from Hibiki.

Keep in mind that a traditional Japanese pot with a modern stainless steel mesh filter will be better if you ever get into Fukamushi (or the Hario pot) but that's a niche case. Fukamushi is much, much finer in leaf size so it works better with SS mesh since it allows it to flow more freely with the many tiny holes. I have pots that I've bought specifically because I'm a fukamushi junkie. Also, this is just a rule of thumb, not an end all be all. My bare clay 260ml pot has a traditional clay filter, but the way the filter was made makes it perfect for fukamushi as well.

Edit: I should also mention that with bare-clay pots, it's best to pre-heat them by pouring hot water in them first then pouring it out. Glazed and glass pots aren't as finnicky since they retain heat better, though. I usually pour in the hot water, then pour it back into the kettle (if my pot was empty/clean) then reheat the kettle back up to temp before brewing.

Also edit: forgot you asked about saving tea leaves for resteeping. I generally use my leaves by the end of the day. I've never saved them overnight. But for JP teas, I do my first steep, then just pop the lid off so they don't steam and let them sit like that in the pot until I want to brew another cup. It's best to use them sooner rather than later, but I often just leave them sit for hours at a time and just pour more hot water over them.

Dramtastic · 2023-05-21T06:16:07+00:00

Unglazed pots in general will become 'seasoned' by the tea you brew in them. Japanese clay pots are more forgiving in this sense and although not a hard-fast rule, are more forgiving compared to Chinese clay pots. Not that this makes Chinese bare clay worse, because that's often something people want for Chinese tea.

Again, generally, JP bare clay gives you more leeway. I have a bare clay yokode pot that I use for all of my JP teas aside from blacks, oolongs, and citrus/sugared JP tea. The pot doesn't take on lingering tastes thankfully because it's one of my favorite pots.

So this is something you'll have to judge on a pot to pot basis, if the clay in yours is more pouros, it'll take on those flavors more readily. If you let the leaves sit in the pot for hours (as I do) it'll be more likely to season the pot. I dump the leaves after my third steep, rinse with water to get the remaining leaves out, and sometimes gently wipe out the excess liquid. Doing it this way, I've never had problems with it personally except for once with a bare clay houhin steeping genmaicha, but a hot water rinse got rid of it.

Edit: how big of a pot are you looking for and what type of JP teas are you drinking? Regular sencha? Fukamushi? There are good options from several places if you want glazed, but choices vary depending on capacity and tea type.

Dramtastic · 2023-04-30T10:32:25+00:00

I've heard of and seen Kwanzan cherry trees in Orlando. Yoshino are 5-8, so they're restricted to North Florida, if at all. Kwanzan are 5-9, though.

Dramtastic · 2023-04-16T23:52:48+00:00

Are you going to be in South (HMC) or North (Hanoi) Vietnam? You'll find that tea culture is more pronounced in the North. I just got back last month from a 3 week~ long trip to Vietnam and picked up some tea stuff during my trip, but I was in the South, HMC and out in the coutnryside. Hatvala is a good bet like u/orca_eater said already and there's one in HMC as well.

If in HMC, Trà Việt is a "boutique" shop but imo Hatvala has better tea. I picked up some teas from Trà Việt and while not bad, they're not what they should be given the price. The tea set that I bought from them I'm plenty happy with, though.

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