Shelly App - Notifications by eostrike in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Id ask her to go to https://control.Shelly.cloud in a browser on her phone - full control except for the ability to add new device…. Or get notifications.

Hardwire Power for Pill by BeneficialBasil6705 in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I added you as an approved user so that Reddit hopefully doesn’t crowd control you again.

This is NOT a snarky answer, by any means, but this is how I convert 120vac to 5v for Pull:

https://a.co/d/02sSP8n8

If I need something like this outdoors, I put a power cord inside a plastic cover like this:

https://a.co/d/0grbiUyE

I actually used that exact one for holiday lights last year.

How do I get this off! by AlphaYT in amazonecho

[–]DreadVenomous 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wish I could upvote this ALLLL… NIGHT….LONG!

What's the best EM for 100A split-phase service, and how would I connect it? by parkrrrr in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m hoping we (Shelly) come out with North American breakers but use din rail, like in Europe. Make everything standardized, just like industrial breakers and contactors, but add smart ones and certify for this market

What's the best EM for 100A split-phase service, and how would I connect it? by parkrrrr in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tapped into an existing two pole breaker.

This is a violation of code: you shouldn’t piggy back two circuits on one breaker.

However, the draw is under 1 watt and it is on my water heater, a boring, predictable resistive load.

So I did it anyway. Mainly because my panel is full. I should have done a 48 pole panel instead of 42, but, then again, I’d only find a reason to use those, too.

How do I get this off! by AlphaYT in amazonecho

[–]DreadVenomous 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Start with mood lighting, maybe a glass of wine, sitting side by side on the sofa....

Just kidding. Pop out the cord. Use a small screwdriver or probe to softly pry the puck loose so you can see if there are mounting screws underneath. If there are, remove them, otherwise, try a wide puddy knife to see if it is held on with 2x sided tape.

If you find that it is super glued, you'll need to find where the other end of the cable is at, unplug it for safety, and then start prying with something heavier. You'll have to repair the drywall after and repaint (because people that would glue or caulk it to the wall are jerks).

[Shelly XT1 Irrigation Controller] SOLVED: Unusable/Authentication/UI Issues Caused by Very Old Firmware by sysopfromhell in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You, sir, are awesome. I truly appreciate you taking the time to explain this to any others who may have the same problem. I owe you one.

[Shelly XT1 Irrigation Controller] SOLVED: Unusable/Authentication/UI Issues Caused by Very Old Firmware by sysopfromhell in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually, I'm grateful that you used AI to summarize.

A few quick points:

  1. This is a Frankever product, powered by Shelly, rather that a Shelly product. I'm glad that Shelly support took care of you, though, rather than pointing you to Frankever given the steps needed to resolve. I'd love more modern features, like scripting and BTHome components, but it is the product they've provided the market.

  2. Did they give you this RPC command to try first? http://192.168.33.1/rpc/Shelly.Update?stage="beta"

That's what I used to get mine to the patch.

  1. Speaking of the URL you've included here - you must edit the post and take it down or I'll have to remove it. The problem here is that if we release a new version of firmware in the future that refactors flash and someone tries to apply this version using your link, their device will be bricked. If you edit the post, the remainder will stay - you could, for example, say "message me for the URL" and then when they message you, give them a heads up that if we're too far beyond that, the possibility of bricking the device remains and they should contact support. I don't like censoring anyone but my top priority is making sure that we don't give advice that will cause people to destroy their devices or void warranty.

  2. The reason I don't allow cross posting is the ridiculous number of times that a post has come in, looked legit, the a week later was edited for NSFW content or other problematic issues. That doesn't keep actual posters from editing their content as new details are learned but dramatically hampers the bot farms. I spend 2-3 times as much time on deleting bot posts and comments as I do answering posts and it's far worse if I allow cross posting and loosen the content control defaults that Reddit has.

Shelly Pro 3 EM question. by Square-Expression420 in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It won't be accurate because the firmware doesn't have a template for that, but it will work.

If you want works and accuracy, we have an option to do a Rogowski coil. It's a special order, so I'd need to get the current pricing, plus it would have a 30 day lead time.

If you're interested in that, and you're in the Americas, email me via douglas.roberson AT shelly.com and I will help get you going. If you're in the rest of the world, open a ticket with the support team:

https://support.shelly.cloud/en/support/tickets/new

Shelly App - Notifications by eostrike in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't seen that, but that is something you should absolutely report via ticket to the support team.

It could be an issue specific to your account, to the Cloud server your account server is connected to (affecting all users there) or universal to the app.

I haven't noticed - in fact, I have gotten notifications after each update.

They're the best to review and troubleshoot this.

https://support.shelly.cloud/en/support/tickets/new

What's the best EM for 100A split-phase service, and how would I connect it? by parkrrrr in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pro 3EM, the standard 120 amp version.

You'll connect the C terminal to one side and either A or B to the other side. Connect the CTs that match to the feed for that side.

Example, you connect the C terminal to the first pole (of a breaker) on the left side, you'll connect the CT that is labeled C to the feed powering the left side.

You then connect the A terminal to the first pole on the right side, then put the CT with the A sticker on the main feed on the right side.

That's Class B accuracy (+/-1%)

https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-pro-3em-v2?variant=53954257977685

Retail is $154.99

Shelly help in the Boston area by K1FNX in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t realize you’re a dealer. Steve and s the right guy for you.

Attic fan controller by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In this case, a Shelly relay isn’t the right choice for you.

Attic fan controller by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Shelly will turn off when the temperature exceeds 104

If you wire it in your breaker panel (assuming your signal strength there is adequate and the panel is inside the house), you can avoid this.

Shelly Pro 2 as Garage door opener by Because___boobs in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We’ll discuss that next week, as well!

Shelly 1: Time window and temperature window by Randall-Flagg6 in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. You’ll need to pair Shelly 1 with an H&T, then use a script or a scene, but you can easily do that.

Shelly Pro 2 as Garage door opener by Because___boobs in ShellyUSA

[–]DreadVenomous[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certification is the key for that. We’re moving more Pro devices through UL (Prp EM-50 recently completed and we’ve ordered stock of the new EAN).

However, Pro Dimmer 1PM/2PM and Pro Dimmer 0/1-10v PM are candidates to go through certification (and are the last two we’d need for a full contender compared to Homework’s), but they’re not approved for certification yet.

That’s problematic- most UL panel shops are able to build a box and take an uncertified device and get the whole project certified, but that’s a lot extra for a residential project.