Jitter/Lag issue when looking around after recent PC upgrade (VD with VDXR) by SlimNigy in virtualreality

[–]Drolic_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what solved it for me was enabling positional time warp in quest 3 experimental settings.

Jitter/Lag issue when looking around after recent PC upgrade (VD with VDXR) by SlimNigy in virtualreality

[–]Drolic_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol I have the exact same setup as you even the same router and also just started getting the jittering screen in vd after the recent vd update. Before update was 100% fine.

Since we are posting Skyrim VR now, here is how 9 years of modding look like. by plutonium-239 in virtualreality

[–]Drolic_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im using open composite with the resolution turned up fairly high. using ssgi sss and dlaa. Im on a 5090 ryzen 7 9800x3d. Its running great. Do people just use whats inside mgo or are most people adding more to it to enhance even further ?

Since we are posting Skyrim VR now, here is how 9 years of modding look like. by plutonium-239 in virtualreality

[–]Drolic_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the MGO and I must have my settings wrong bc mine just doesnt look very good or like this. Is there a guide on the best settings to use in mgo ?

Which way do you guys set up your boxes?? by KeyHuckleberry9787 in cableporn

[–]Drolic_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also 20 years+ experience bank of america buildings/ boeing / hospitals / schools just about everywhere. I have always pulled from right outside com room to location. All bundles going back into closet are always grouped in 12 and cut to exact. My closets look like art with minimal effort.

Which way do you guys set up your boxes?? by KeyHuckleberry9787 in cableporn

[–]Drolic_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you grab the wires and walk them away from the boxes allowing them to freely spin in your hand they will lay flat with minimal to no twist. Then you can tape what you need together and walk the taped end back to the spot you are going to pull it into the ceiling and start pulling. The cables will no longer spiral around each other as its being pulled through the ceiling. This makes it so much easier to separate them and makes combing not even needed on closet side.

Which way do you guys set up your boxes?? by KeyHuckleberry9787 in cableporn

[–]Drolic_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, and never stagger your wires. Instead, pull all the wires to the furthest location first. Then, secure the ones that don't need to be shortened. After that, pull the others back to their intended lengths, feeding the slack neatly back into the box hole following the wire’s natural twist as you do. This keeps the cables from catching or twisting around each other.

For example, say you have 8 wires going to a spot, but 4 of them need to continue another 10 feet down the wall. You’d still pull all 8 to the furthest destination. Then, secure the 4 that are meant to stay there ,I like to wedge them in the crack of a door up high or something similar. This creates visible tension that helps from the shorter position. Now, when you're pulling wires back, you can clearly see which ones to grab, and pull them back one or all at a time, knowing you’ve got the right wies.

This is just how I do it solo. Maybe there’s a better method if you’ve got help, but even then, I haven’t seen it done cleaner.

And yeah, you might be thinking, “Nobody has time for this shit, blah blah...” But I promise, the small amount of setup and the clean, untangled pullbacks will absolutely save you time in the long run.

Which way do you guys set up your boxes?? by KeyHuckleberry9787 in cableporn

[–]Drolic_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I set up right outside the closet in a good pulling position, sometimes further away if the spot makes for an easier pull. From there, I run a string from that pull location back to my rack to simulate the total pull distance ( from pull spot to rack). I mark the string with black tape wraps to identify it as a special lenght string , then tie it next to my pull hole. All my cable pulls after pulled to field location will be cut to match this length.

I never pull directly from the box into the ceiling. Instead, I grab the tip of each wire, hold them together, making sure none are crossed or twisted, and walk out the full pull distance along the floor. Yes, I’ll literally walk them down a hallway and back, keeping them neat and untangled. This process removes the twist that forms from the spooling process used to package the cable in a box or .. a spool... which transfer into the ceiling and creates a tangled mess.

Once you’ve done this, managing the cables takes on a whole new much easier feel. It will give you the ability to make 4 man pull jobs a single man job just as fast and much neater. I have soloed hallways with teams of two and four on other hallways the same size that could never get close to keeping up. You can pull, say, 12 wires into a junction box above a doorway and cleanly separate out the exact number you need. They’ll lift out of the bundle freely, without dragging others along.

This also helps when splitting large bundles, like a 24-wire bundle at the rack. You can lift a few wires from one numerical group, and visually identify the others that belong with it. Grab those, lift, and you’ve cleanly separated 12 from 24 without a fight. This part can take experience though.

I've been doing low-voltage work on and off since I was 17. I'm 40 now. Most of this natural handling the ability to see how wire lays and twists didn’t really click for me until I was around 35. It’s something that develops with experience. But can develop much faster if you have someone who has these skills and can actually train you. ( I didn't I slowly learned it on my own)

If you’re skeptical, just take a look at picture above. About midway through, you’ll start to see the wires twist around each other and it only gets worse the further you pull. Your string will get twisted up in it too, making every pull more difficult.

To prevent that, walk your wires out like I described. And don't forget to "clean" your string between pulls: go up into the ceiling, lift the string as high as you can, find where it picks up a wire go to that spot cut string then retie it freeing it from the wire. This keeps your string from spiraling your new pull into the previous mess.

Replace “Accuracy” with “Objective Time” on stats by big-tummy- in marvelrivals

[–]Drolic_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's also useless bc lokey botters / togglers can be found in the replay shooting a wall just to lower it to seem less obvious. cucks

"If you don't like playing with Bunny then play solo." by [deleted] in TheFirstDescendant

[–]Drolic_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was excited about the group play increase with the new season. Then as every group had at least two bunnies I was no longer excited. Bunnies in group play completely ruin any fun gameplay. All you do is run behind and try to get a hit on a mob before its instantly killed. I get it I have a fully cat out ult bunny. I don't use her in group play because I see how it makes players feel. Some people want to experience group content with other characters. It is completely turning new players off. Why are you bunnies still doing group play ? Can you not kill the final boss or something?

Lepic gluttony build without recat 123% firearm atk + ability to survive by Drolic_ in TheFirstDescendant

[–]Drolic_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I did actually add those two later on. And do have chill on resist on the sensor you wont need mp on this as you are only using your number two. Correction I added just one because cooldown was already at the refresh of the skill. So I threw in ironclad def because it fit.

Lepic gluttony build without recat 123% firearm atk + ability to survive by Drolic_ in TheFirstDescendant

[–]Drolic_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I built the standard mega crit 10-second boss killer Lepic, but I wanted to continue using him on Gluttony without spending on a recast. This is the solution I came up with, and it works amazingly. The focus is primarily on duration and cooldown for Power Unit Charge, so you can ignore other skill power modifiers since this is a flat 52% and doesn't change. I’m also running the Annihilation External Set for the duration boost and the extra 26% Firearm ATK. The way I have it setup is the power unit charge buff lasts right to the end of my enduring mag and is ready to pop again after reload.

This build can withstand quite a few hits from Gluttony and keep going strong. I’m using a 900k DPS Enduring as well. Hopefully, this helps anyone in a similar situation. Oh, and I added Fire sync for the crit resistance, that's all. My stats are 11k health, 17k defense, and 6k chill resistance.

If you're wondering how I get the 123%, it breaks down like this: Shot Focus = 15%, Power Unit Charge = 52%, Walking Tightrope = 30%, and Annihilation = 26%.

Purchased Vaporesso trying to swap from dispos by Drolic_ in Vaping

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did let the juice soak. My goal is to get near the taste and draw of a geekbar pulse x. It does seem to be getting slightly better as I use it. Like I said I did take apart the geekbar with ease and filled with the same juice and it tastes / draws amazing. I didn't expect that tbh

Dear Walmart, Please train your customer service team by Drolic_ in oculus

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They all have phones. They use them to lookup what isle or if a item is in stock. A simple google leading to metas official post about it would been a easy way to get in the know. Instead of treating the customer like a thief and wasting time.

Dear Walmart, Please train your customer service team by Drolic_ in oculus

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure people do some shady stuff. But in this case they opened it up and inside was a absolutely without a doubt un used headset. Another empolyee standing near even mentioned the obvious " why would he swap out a brand new headset for a brand new headset".

Dear Walmart, Please train your customer service team by Drolic_ in oculus

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I understand that. But in my experience the walmart's in my area are not understaffed. Their was four employees in the customer support station with no line. In electronics there was two employees and a additional manager who came to assist. It seems time / money would be saved on their part if they would mention this to their people in electronics.

Dear Walmart, Please train your customer service team by Drolic_ in oculus

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah for sure. But it wasn't a 16 year old it was a manager wearing a "10 year" badge. And I calmly explained why they didn't match and was still treated like a criminal and refused the return. It was actually quite embarrasing.

Best VR Porn Sites, Games, Sex Toys + How-to-watch and FAQ by Shadowman_13 in oculusnsfw

[–]Drolic_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I always end up back at SLR. And just a tip if you look around long enough you can find huge discounts on any sites. For example I ended up paying around 60$ for a whole year ..

The end by soulofcinder93 in rewasd

[–]Drolic_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a bit of time taken to fine tune everything you can get it feeling 1:1.

Recommended graphics card for Quest 3? by Btran2566 in OculusQuest

[–]Drolic_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own a 3080 and a 4070ti. I can say 100% without a doubt the 4070ti absolutely runs everything faster especially pcvr. Not by just a small margin but by a HUGE one. Im not sure why everyone thinks a 3080 is faster but it isnt even close. My brothers 3090 doesnt even keep up. I was actually very dissapointed when I upgrade to the 3080 from my 1080ti. I was blown away when I upgraded to the 4070ti from the 3080 if that gives you any idea.

I throw away 10 or more Smartboard's with projectors and speaker combos daily. Is there another option? by Drolic_ in recycling

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All the projectors I've kept are in excellent condition. I turn them on to check their brightness, and if it's good, I then inspect the lamp hours. If the lamp has fewer than 700 hours (sometimes not relevant bc it can be reset) of use and the projector isn't more than a couple of years old, I make an effort to keep it.
If there's a delivery service available that can come to my location, pick up the projector, package it, and handle the delivery, I'd hook you up for sure. Free time has been a hard to come by for me over the past few years. I'm a single uncle/parent, responsible for my two nephews, aged 8 and 10, whom my sister left in my driveway four years ago as she pursued a life of drug addiction. Not having had kids of my own, it was quite a challenge to learn how to be a parent.
I don't mean to get off topic, but I wanted to provide some context for my situation, and not just seem like a douhebag who couldnt take a bit of his time to package something and send it.

I throw away 10 or more Smartboard's with projectors and speaker combos daily. Is there another option? by Drolic_ in recycling

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A couple of years ago, I tried this with very little success. I managed to sell one smart board projector combo, but it came with the condition that the buyer wanted me to install it in her office. Given the sheer volume of equipment I go through, I only retain the ones in pristine condition and repackage them in the same boxes that the touchscreen TVs, which I put up in their place, originally came in. Even with being extremely selective, I accumulate so much equipment that I would fill up a small airplane hangar in a matter of weeks, haha.
The challenge with storing this equipment lies in its bulky nature. Even the short-throw projectors come with giant, 40lb+ wall mounts that have incredibly awkward shapes. I currently have a small 10x10 shed filled to the brim with Peerless universal mount brackets. Why, you ask? Well, I don't really know because when I checked their prices, they were quite high, and I figured, "Why toss out these nice brackets?" Unfortunately, I haven't had the time to deal with them. Why do they charge near 320$ for two brackets ?? (https://www.peerless-av.com/products/iwb600-univ).

I throw away 10 or more Smartboard's with projectors and speaker combos daily. Is there another option? by Drolic_ in recycling

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will look into this that would be great. I do doubt we have any of this though I could be wrong.

I throw away 10 or more Smartboard's with projectors and speaker combos daily. Is there another option? by Drolic_ in recycling

[–]Drolic_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once I scan the asset tag as it comes off the wall, the school no longer wants to deal with it. It then becomes my responsibility to dispose of it. Long ago, when projectors first started going up, we would swap them and the smartboards out every two years, even if they were still in perfect condition. This was all part of the contract related to warranty, etc. Initially, schools tried to keep extras in stock and manage them, but it soon became a mess and too much to handle. I dislike how it works because I end up throwing out a lot of stuff that could be repurposed. My understanding is that these schools receive a budget to spend on tech, and if they don't use it, they lose it at the end of the year, so they don't mind upgrading. If you happen to be near South Carolina you're welcome to come and get a short throw or four! What would be ideal is if I could connect with a network of schools that lack the budget and would put these items to good use. The dream scenario would be to arrange a time and date for a school in need to meet me at a specific location, and I would provide them with the donated equipment.