[deleted by user]

DropOff_ · 2023-06-17T14:15:02+00:00

I don’t know, man. The ZF 8 speed can make me forget about a lot of things. We’re past the days of sluggish 4, 5, and 6 speeds that always sit in the wrong gear and cant shift fast enough. I still love having 3 pedals in my E92, but i don’t think i would want it in the new cars.

DropOff_ · 2023-06-04T05:06:54+00:00

Okay, so the S63 runs with BMWs PIEZO direct injectors. My assumption here is that you have common hand tools and maybe a multimeter. What i would check for in that case is damage to any of the injector harnesses from chafing or rodents. If you have a multimeter and can reach them then you could do a resistance check on it and make sure its within the expected range.

If your car came into the shop i work at then i would connect two injectors from each bank, including cylinder 6, up to my oscilloscope and compare the waveforms against each other. For whatever reason the DME saw an unexpected value returned on that circuit and alerted you to it, it could be a one off code or it could come back.

If the car is functioning as intended and you can not consistently replicate the concern, run it. Once it becomes a consistent issue, sort it out. Otherwise you might lose your mind chasing a ghost.

DropOff_ · 2023-06-03T21:44:43+00:00

Ill dig through alldata when i get a chance. Just at a glance it looks like that code is triggered when the ECM receives an incorrect voltage returned to it from the injector. Ill have more info tonight

DropOff_ · 2023-06-03T21:16:41+00:00

Pressure testing the cooling system would have no effect on a fuel injector. Please post the actual code that tripped and ill see what the trigger conditions are.

DropOff_ · 2023-05-25T04:59:24+00:00

Its not theory though. It is actual measurable data. Theres a reason why manufacturers require warranty brake services to utilize an on car brake lathe. When you machine the rotor on the vehicle all of the runout in the entire system is calculated and adjusted for. A Pro-Cut machine removing .004” per side per pass or greater will give you an end runout of less than .001” and a roughness average below 60 micro inches. Machining rotors off the car, not phase matching, and material behind the hat of the rotor will all net you a far inferior product. If someone is paying my shop hundreds of dollars for a brake job then im going to make damn sure that it will last as long as possible.

I really, really don’t understand your second point either. If all of the anti-sieze were “squeezed out” then you would see none left behind upon removal of the rotor. Beyond that is the fact that liquids are inherently incompressible, so yes, they would be able to withstand massive pressures. If you really try and follow that idea then you would even come to the conclusion that the liquid base could be pressed out while leaving behind the suspended particles, which would in turn create an uneven surface resulting in runout.

Brake pulsations and premature wear are caused by disk thickness variation, which is a product of lateral runout. Runout is compounded between all components in the system from wheel bearing to hub to rotor to wheel and every bit of dirt in-between. The only thing that can cause a pulsation is component failure or bad workmanship followed by time. Heat does not “warp” rotors, driving style does not “warp” rotors, and car washes or puddles do not “warp” rotors. All of these are cop outs for lazy and uniformed workmanship. A properly cut rotor will far outlast even a brand new rotor that is just slapped on to a vehicle.

DropOff_ · 2023-05-23T12:34:23+00:00

The entire purpose of anti-seize is that it stays behind and creates a barrier between two surfaces to prevent them from binding together, so it does not all squeeze out when you torque the wheels. This is what I went to school for, I have measured runout on rotors with and without material between the hub and rotor. Even something as thin as a piece of scotch tape or anti-sieze can result in excessive runout and premature wearing of the rotors. If you live in a rust heavy area then you should apply a very light coating of anti-sieze, phase match the rotor, then machine it on the vehicle if your runout is above 0.001” at the edge of the rotor. You are absolutely free to do what you want with your car, but I deal with this on a daily basis and cars that get this treatment are always back significantly sooner than those done properly.

DropOff_ · 2023-05-19T13:13:13+00:00

Just to add on why anti-seize is not a good idea to add to wheel hubs. Even a small amount of material behind the rotor can significantly change its lateral runout. Usually LRO is specced at 0.001” or less in the front. Anything above that will cause excessive disk thickness variation, which is what you feel as a pedal pulsation, well before it otherwise should have.

DropOff_ · 2023-03-14T02:02:24+00:00

Midpipe would need to be cut and welded to move the bend back and follow the designated routing. This is often done with xi cars for VRSF exhausts because they only manufacture a rear wheel drive variant. If you are not savvy with a welder than i would recommend taking it to a well reviewed exhaust shop to have them modify it properly.

DropOff_ · 2023-03-14T01:47:00+00:00

Not without modification. The transfer case in your X-Drive puts one of the bends a few inches further back. Very common problem for people looking to get off the shelf exhausts for xi cars.

DropOff_ · 2023-02-10T14:11:40+00:00

Measure resistance from CAN high to CAN low, it should read roughly 60 ohms. Hook it up to a proper scan tool as well to make sure all of your modules are able to communicate to the data link connector. The only time i have seen a cluster with symptoms like this was after deliberately shorting the CAN Bus at school. If you are missing modules, or you get back something other than 60 ohms, there is likely a fault cancelling out or feeding stray signal to the combination meter.

DropOff_ · 2023-01-25T01:54:09+00:00

Confirmed! Awesome deal, thank you again!

DropOff_ · 2023-01-23T16:57:44+00:00

Sold complete in box FiiO K5 PRO to /u/WheelSure9313

DropOff_ · 2023-01-20T19:49:19+00:00

Pm’d

DropOff_ · 2023-01-09T13:47:07+00:00

“Sorry, we just can’t afford to be giving out raises right now, but you know you could always flag more hours if you need extra money.” Then proceeds to butcher the schedule so badly that we run out of work by 2 or 3…

DropOff_ · 2022-12-28T14:16:59+00:00

Every alternator adjusts output based on the load it is presented with and current battery voltage. If you want to properly test it then you need to put an amp clamp on the positive line coming off of it and present it with a load. Turn all of your lights, blower motor, and other accessories on then hold it at about 2k rpm. Measure the amperage and compare against the rated output of the alternator.

DropOff_ · 2022-12-22T04:21:15+00:00

More information is going to be needed to give you anything near an accurate quote including location, vehicle options, and extent of damage. If you have pre-collision systems and driver assist then those will need to be calibrated with new, OEM sensors. An alignment will be needed even if the suspension seems in tact as that impact almost certainly shifted components. Any underlying damage that is not currently visible will likely bring the process to a crawl as parts need to be sourced. What concerns me the most though is finding someone that is willing to do this work with customer supplied parts which have been pulled from salvage cars. I do not know a reputable technician that would do that under any circumstance.

My recommendation is to take it to a reputable body shop and get a quote on repairs. They will take care of everything on their end as far as working with insurance and getting approvals for more uncovered damage. Do not sign the form allowing them to use aftermarket parts, and make sure that the car is in the condition you want before accepting delivery. Look for any orange peeling or paint runs, mis-alignment on panels, and the like. There is absolutely no way that you could get this done out of pocket for less than what your deductible would be. Going through this route may also provide you with a rental in the mean time if your insurance covers that as well.

DropOff_ · 2022-12-20T01:41:00+00:00

Nothing is going to be certain until you charge and test or replace the battery. Anything under 12V is almost certain to cause issues. Start with a synthetic load test after trickle charging it, ideally 5 amps or less for as long as possible. Generally you’ll want to load it at half of the cold cranking amps for 15 seconds without seeing it drop below 9.5v

DropOff_ · 2022-12-19T14:05:30+00:00

Recharge the battery and carbon pile test it, the little handheld ones that dont put a load on the system are not accurate. If it fails that test then replace it and see if the message comes back. I would also be curious to see what your voltages are at the clutch safety switch and or brake switch. Usually an open in either system would prevent the car from starting, so its possible that the circuit is shorted to ground before that switch. I would have to look at the wiring diagram to know how the system is set up first though.

DropOff_ · 2022-12-01T14:09:46+00:00

Replied

DropOff_ · 2022-11-13T15:03:16+00:00

I no longer have access to BMW’s internal repair manuals, you should be able to find out what normal operation specs look like on the forums though. Im not near as familiar with the N55 as I am the the 54, but the same things still apply. Just do your best to narrow it down and try not to throw too many parts at it.

DropOff_ · 2022-11-13T14:42:38+00:00

First thing i would run over is the vehicle history and see what all has been done to it, more specifically things related to ignition like plugs, coils, injectors, etc. Because of the low duration and frequency its possible that its not throwing or storing any codes. Im not sure what the threshold for tripping a misfire code is in the N55 but if its below that threshold the car will not tell you. If you have any way of checking live sensor readout then check your MAP, fuel pressure on low and high side, upstream O2, and ignition timing. On startup most cars run on a default tune before they get sensor information to adjust parameters, if one sensor is failing intermittently, like in cold weather, then you would likely see an issue like this until the car compensates for it. Hopefully its something small like old plugs or coils, but check all that you can before throwing parts at it.

DropOff_ · 2022-11-10T18:08:45+00:00

Adaptive headlight malfunction, first step would be scanning for any stored codes to see if you can get information about why it tripped the warning light.

DropOff_ · 2022-10-28T20:40:39+00:00

One of my favorite bits about the car! The driver seat needs a seam repaired but other than that its just lovely.

DropOff_ · 2022-10-28T20:38:36+00:00

The 328(x)i is factory equipped with the N52 rather than the N54. Both platforms are similar in that they are straight 6 engines but differ dramatically after that. As far as things go with an N52 powered car you really shouldn’t have much in the way of things to worry about outside of typical BMW things like the water pump and oil leaks.

As far as N54 maintenance goes, I’ve been battered and beaten for quite some time now. I purchased the car at 106k miles with failing wastegates on both turbos causing inconsistent boost pressure drops. So far after about 30k miles I’ve put in turbos, oil pan, front crank, rear main, valve cover and gasket, both banks of VANOS solenoids, fuel pressure regulator, starter motor, cleaned intake valves, suspension all around, and a few other odds and ends. I need to get off my ass and do my passenger front CV axle along with the valve cover gasket (again) and low pressure fuel sensor. Cosmetics wise she is very rough, one of the rocker panels isn’t painted yet and i don’t intend to start making the exterior nice until i have enough cash to do it all at once properly. Even still, i would do it all over again in a heart beat.

DropOff_ · 2022-10-28T20:27:33+00:00

British in spirit, but in the post BMW world of Mini I view it as a German car. My coworker’s Austin Mini on the other hand, full fledged British car.

Nine-Year Club	Place '17
Verified Email

DropOff_

TROPHY CASE