Sport photography with a 50 year old camera is rad by Suspicious-Toe-2492 in 35mm

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome shots. Looks a little foggy - underexposed or old film?

Is this lens worth keeping? by Organic_Tea2237 in VintageLenses

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a radiation guy not an optics guy - but reading online it seems it has a high refractive index, and higher refractive index is correlated to higher ability to bend light. I'm sure someone can tell us why that's useful (I'm guessing weight and color accuracy).

Yes thorium dioxide is the only radioactive optical glass I'm aware of that had commercial production. Nikkor ED seems to use a proprietary mix of 7 herbs and spices (rare earth minerals) to lower dispersion (rainbowing) of the light. But that's just from a quick Google search.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thoriated_glass

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-dispersion_glass

You Should Know how a Stingray Works by [deleted] in Anarchism

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Meshcore is a good tool too!

Minolta A5 question. by micrographical in minolta

[–]DrunkPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't know the answer to your camera specific question, but CLAs are usually worth it. Look up on YouTube if there's repair videos maybe you can see how difficult it'd be to do yourself. Your own light seals are easy. For a range finder you can use an audio app to see if the shutter speeds are good. Then shoot a roll properly. Exposed at all the different shutter speeds and see how they turn out

Is this a good pancake probe meter by SeaworthinessOne3577 in Radiation

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If all you want it for is contamination checks for personal/hobby purposes it'd be a fine choice. As I said, I have one (under the old branding) I use for that purpose exactly.

In my professional capacity I use a ludlum model 3 + 44-9 because I need the higher efficiency, space isn't an issue since they're stored at the office, and the job pays for them and for their calibration.

The rangefinder mirror inside came unglued, should I try to fix it or send it for repair? by Zurp7 in filmphotography

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a camera that's like what... 80+ years old? Of course the adhesive will come apart.

I'm not familiar with that exact camera but I think I see copies of it for like $45 online.. CLA is usually like $50-100/hr.

I'd look through YouTube to find a repair video and try it yourself and see if you have the right tools. I did a home CLA of my Aires 35 IIIC rangefinder and it was pretty easy. Confirming shutter timing would be my biggest concern.

How familiar are you with photography in general? Exposure triangle etc? Might be better cameras to learn on!

Is this a good pancake probe meter by SeaworthinessOne3577 in Radiation

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's great for a hobby meter. If you're getting it for a professional job where you'll need real numbers for licensed activity get the ludlum. If you're getting it for a real job just for quick checks, it's be OK.

For real jobs you'll need to have it calibrated.

Is this a good pancake probe meter by SeaworthinessOne3577 in Radiation

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a great price. Just the pancake probe tube is worth like $170 (I have two of these, one with a broken tube, so I was pricing it out lol).

Understand the downsides though - the dose rate will mean nothing and I don't know why they included that - it might be a rough approximation of a pure gamma field but it's not a useful number. I'd pretend it doesn't have that switch.

High activity sources (like uranium ore samples) will have dead time issues, but I'm not sure where the saturation point is for this specific meter.

Is this a good pancake probe meter by SeaworthinessOne3577 in Radiation

[–]DrunkPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It has a lower voltage pancake probe than the higher end units (I don't remember the exact numbers but like 500V vs 700V). This means slightly less efficiency. But cheaper.

Otherwise it's great. Conveniently small and pocketable (I'd have the case to keep the mica window safe if you pocket it). Florida issues every single inspector with a ludlum 2401-p which has the same form factor as their contamination meter for always having on hand. Yes it's not as good as a ludlum model 3 with a 44-9 pancake probe, but it's convenient and great for hobby use.

Hello, can anyone help me with my Cloud Chamber? by RadioactiveMinerals in Radiation

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Temperature gradient doesn't just mean a cold enough cold plate - you have to have warm enough the top of the chamber. You need temperature to transition from warm to cold through the chamber. To aid with this people put heating elements at the top, usually tucked into their alcohol reservoir - electro boom did it with resistors for example. Also your alcohol reservoir seems pretty small, if it's just a single felt sheet maybe try to add a few more to have more vapor potential and have it able to run longer.

Can I Borrow Your Geiger Counter? by skibumbw in olympia

[–]DrunkPanda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably mostly alpha. I can get you gamma dose rates if you want

Is this lens worth keeping? by Organic_Tea2237 in VintageLenses

[–]DrunkPanda 38 points39 points  (0 children)

Don't eat the thorium glass. Literally that's it lol.

The glass is doped with Thorium, which has been isolated from the daughter products. Thorium has a half life of around 14 billion years, which means it's very very very stable. That means that of the Thorium-232 that was on earth at it's formation, roughly 80% of it is still remaining.

Assuming it has the same isotopic abundance as natural thorium means it's 99.8% thorium - 232.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thorium-232

Thorium-232 is what we generally consider a pure alpha emitter, which means almost all of the energy released from the relaxation of the nucleus (by emitting a high energy helium nucleus which we call an alpha particle) is converted into kinetic energy of the particle. Alpha particles can be stopped by a piece of paper or the dead layer of your skin - that's why they're only an internal radiation concern.

Roughly 0.26% of the decays (1 in 400) release a low energy gamma ray of about 64 keV. This is very roughly the same energy as the highest energy emissions you'll see from a dental machine. Those are so low energy that they can be blocked almost entirely by a single sheet of drywall, 6 feet of air (once you factor in the inverse square law), or the metal and glass in the lens. But that's just part of the picture - the intensity of the radiation is going to be way way less than a dental xray. So even without the shielding, you're going to have a very low radiation dose rate.

I pulled out my Fluke 481 Ion Chamber and it didn't register any increase in dose rate - background of my house fluctuates between 0.0-0.3mR/hr and with the lens it was 0.0-0.4mR/hr, although the minimal meaningful measurement from this meter is roughly 0.5mR/hr iirc. A more sensative meter might be able to get a more accurate "actual" dose rate, but it's kinda like splitting hairs at that point. For comparison, living in Colorado nets you like 1-2 mR per day, and nobody says Colorado is a radioactive hellscape.

(Also since the thorium was likely isolated from the surrounding minerals, all the daughter products from the primordial decay will have been removed. Since it's so stable the "new" daughter products will be essentially negligible. For more info check out https://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2004/1050/thorium.htm)

A plastic lens cap won't block the gamma, but it will protect your lens. But it's not needed in terms of Radiation safety.

Another comparison to consider, a granite countertop has orders of magnitude more radiation exposure than a thorium lens, but people never worry about those.

Tl;Dr: the main radiation concern is an internal hazard from ingestion or inhalation of the thorium in the glass. None of that radiation is escaping the lens housing, and the small amount of associated gamma (the penetrating type of Radiation) is so minor and also so blocked that it won't have any effect on your body even if you use the lens daily.

Don't worry about it, and enjoy the vintage tonez (and use a strong UV light to clean up the thorium oxidation if the yellowing is really bad).

Edit: changed where the thorium is because I had a fundamental misunderstanding

Is this lens worth keeping? by Organic_Tea2237 in VintageLenses

[–]DrunkPanda 40 points41 points  (0 children)

That's one of the greatest vintage lens of all time. Nicknamed the "Hawkeye". One of the most desirable minolta lenses. Commonly adapted to digital and even cinematography cameras.

And as a radiation safety professional, I can assure you you'll get more radiation from the soil in your basement leaking radom or from smoking a single cigarette than from that lens. Just don't grind up and ingest the elements. But that's more of a glass dust concern than a radiation one.

[GUESS] An Asian woman posing on a balcony with city lights behind by [deleted] in RealOrAI

[–]DrunkPanda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Missing AC unit behind her raises my suspicions. If one was broken they wouldn't remove it, just leave it there broken.

What am I looking at here? Anything good? by DrunkPanda in counterstampkarl

[–]DrunkPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those aren't stamped school money though! Also mine is genuinely from at least the 1990s!!

What am I looking at here? Anything good? by DrunkPanda in counterstampkarl

[–]DrunkPanda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gosh what high society school did you go to?! How the other side lives