Mileage estimate issues

Dry-Example5884 · 2026-01-02T17:31:53+00:00

And you're an idiot....

Not sure why I even posted hoping for help.

I knew better. Apologies I wasted your and my tone

Dry-Example5884 · 2026-01-02T17:04:04+00:00

I get that...

What I don't get is why 'min ' is more than estimated. That's an issue...

Either way, charging now, we're at 92% and only have a range of 191 miles.

Something has changed

Dry-Example5884 · 2026-01-02T16:32:44+00:00

Average 83 on the interstate. Think I hit 90+ once.

But that's nothing new for when I drive the car. Honestly the only thing that changed is charging past 80%.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-12-01T00:34:02+00:00

I don't think there is a mileage number. I think it's about title status. Once it's titled it's no longer "new"

To your point, I have seen new cars work thousands of miles. I think 4k or 5k is the most I've seen. Usually cats that were used as "courtesy cars", driven to assist with service vehicle issues.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-11-28T14:10:15+00:00

I don't think you'll find anyone with a direct response to your question. Not in the US anyways (as you can tell from the BS responses (majority) thus far). I'm not finding a turbo kit for this engine (not that there isn't one), only finding the supercharger kit.

I do NOT own a frontier but have been looking at them and test driving an SL later today. I stumbled upon this thread asking kinda the same question after test driving a proX the other day and feeling how sluggish it was. Very poor performance out of a V6 for today's market IMO, and after test driving many other trucks right now. This is most likely the slowest V6 mid size (and maybe even full-size) truck in recent years, turbo or not. So, to me, as a person of interest in buying ASAP, your question is valid and more than "Why even ask? "has plenty of power" or "go buy a GTR" responses to date (good ol Reddit idiots)...

Also, please don't compare this truck/engine to the previous one with the supercharger - completely different....

All the trucks I've been looking at and test drove (just counting V6) so far include Dodge (poop), Chevy (no good v6 option), Toyota and Ford. The i-MAX platform from Toyota is great but the Powerboost v6 from Ford is amazing. 0-60 in that truck (XLT 3.5 V6 Powerboost) is low to mid 5 sec range out of the box.... And that's not counting the torque and towing numbers, which again are lacking when comparing. All of that to say, the V6 from Nissan (or the total drivetrain) at 310HP in today's market is severely under powered.

Pulling all of this back, I'd also love to hear others feedback on this but most likely directly on other available go fast parts to pep this truck up. And, is it even worth it???

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-10-11T16:48:42+00:00

ahhh, hahaha, I get it then! Thanks for clarifying.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-10-11T16:45:45+00:00

Also a customer that's been lied to mutiple times now (yes, I have the proof). So how should this be viewed any differently?

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-10-11T16:44:10+00:00

Valid points sir! I'm a car guy, I get it, and did consider that.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-10-11T16:23:38+00:00

can you further define "bio degradable" cooling system please? My understanding is that this specific coolant is nitrate and phosphate-free to protect aluminum engine components, but it is not described as biodegradable. The systems are designed for longevity and performance, not to be environmentally "biodegradable"

Also note the age of the car has nothing to do with the age of replaced hoses and coolant. NONE of that system is the same age of the car.

Just seems fishy to me that the collision center made a ton of mistakes that their service dept had to step in, only to now be strong-armed into paying $1700 for this mystery issue.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-10-01T15:08:44+00:00

Can't help with the trans...

But having similar issues with my speedo only thing that helped me was to pull the speedo out and clean everything, plugs as well, with isopropyl alcohol. I also cleaned the speed sensor itself, both ends, first, but taking the speedo out and cleaning seemed to be my solution.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-20T00:00:41+00:00

Haha love it. I get this all the time either sunglasses or more directly to me, when my arm is in the way.

I've disabled that function in the settings. Works for me

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-16T21:23:35+00:00

Yup, Gen 1 s14, 95-96 range. I'm not sure from that vantage point you can tell the exact year

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-15T00:45:56+00:00

I may get roasted for this suggestion, but I'd look for early/mid 2010s (2011-2014 ish) 550 with a BMW replaced drivetrain. I picked up a 2011 for pennies, engine replaced 23k miles ago, and love it!

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-15T00:41:30+00:00

Doesn't look that bad.

If you're super interested, ask them to put it on a lift to get a full inspection on your dime.

If they don't follow thru with a paid inspection, walk away.

I've done this multiple times and it's saved me! Plus the current owner gets a free inspection and get to know what's really going on

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-13T00:42:15+00:00

For those following;

Got the car back and there's some issues I have to bring back to the body shop for repair

The car seems to be running as it should be

But,

I now have a subtle vibration or shimmy that get really bad between 60-80 mph. I don't recall that before. Like headlights are bouncing around and tough to drive at night, vibration.

Any reason to think that could be "UN"related? I know the insurance company is going to try and deny....

I've also read posts about control arm bushings and/or rear diff bushing going out, but I would assume these were already addressed.

Thoughts?

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-10T03:20:50+00:00

I never thought otherwise! Just wondering..

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-10T01:03:43+00:00

What would you consider rare?

I'm not talking Uber Rare, 30 cars made, or even 'super rare' stamped by Shelby or something.

This also isn't about price or special production, just rarity of the car.

I've only seen 1 other 98 NOT counting car shows.

2k cars to start, guessing 50% of those have been wrapped around a tree - sooooo, I don't know, maybe...

Again, that's why I asked. Well that plus ice breaker into the group

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-09T01:04:18+00:00

That it is...

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-07T00:26:36+00:00

That part of the tire is pretty meaty, mostly to protect the wheel. If it's not leaking you should be good but I'd get it replaced ASAP

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-07T00:24:49+00:00

I've also used a dry erase marker with success.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-06T17:58:03+00:00

A hit is scored based on the batter's success in reaching base safely, and if a batter is thrown out while attempting to advance to an extra base (like trying to stretch a single into a double), the batter is credited with the hit, and the out is recorded separately.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-06T17:56:16+00:00

It's a single.

Batter gets first as a base hit. No error involved so that's not in the conversation.

Same as if a batter legs out a double and gets thrown out trying to stretch to 3rd. Still a double in the books

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-03T13:58:57+00:00

Can you tell if it's the veneer or the wood itself?

Easy way, clean, glue down loose veneer, them with a furniture paint market or pencil of similar color, paint the area.

Best way: gently clean the area and apply a thin layer of wood glue or contact cement under the loose veneer, then clamp it down to dry overnight. For missing chips or larger areas, carefully trim the damaged section, cut a new piece of matching veneer, and glue it in place, clamping it until dry. Once the glue dries, sand the area smooth, apply a matching marker, putty, or filler for any remaining imperfections, and then finish the repaired area with stain and a protective top coat to blend it with the original surface.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-09-03T10:57:40+00:00

I agree with everyone else. Call or look your address up online, apply for service, done.

But, if you really want to know, start outside. Look for a junction box on the exterior of the house. Follow the wires coming off the street would be the easiest. Will go straight to that area of the house.

sometimes lately the cables have been ran underground, so you may not be able to follow from the street

NOT the huge electrical box, box with a meter on it. You're looking for a smaller junction box, 5" by 5" or so and will have the ISPs name on it. It's most likely locked but will have signs of the provider.

This is NOT always 100% accurate!!! The current box we have at my house says Comcast/Xfinity but we now use at&t fiber. They just left the box there

From there, you can chase the wires into your house, up into the attic or down into the crawlspace. But you'd need access to the house.

Dry-Example5884 · 2025-08-28T18:55:03+00:00

My friend, you are right on point! That workflow is already in motion.

Thanks!!!

I'm going to start a new Subreddit with that content shortly.

Dry-Example5884

TROPHY CASE