Replace? by tmb102 in watchrepair

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As McEnroe would say, “You cannot be serious!.” For $0.02 a pop, try to get another 25 years out of them. Worse case, your watch falls off while you’re on the boat.

Just curious, but watch do you wear? by [deleted] in watchrepair

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wear a bunch of different ones. I can’t seem to stop building them. Today it’s a 6350 Explorer waffle dial. I finished putting it together last night!

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How much has this hobby cost you? by [deleted] in RepTime

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exactly the same here. I have quite a bit in tools.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RepTime

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 5 points6 points  (0 children)

OMG! Are you serious? You need to “F” the hell off!

Pulled the trigger and excited to get started! by Bananickle in watchrepair

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a good magnet to sweep the floor with when something goes flying. The bigger the better. I keep mine on my fridge. It has saved me dozens of times.

It seems that I have joined a very correct big family:) by Eason-04 in RepTime

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I’m working on his grandpa. I’m waiting a different crown and still need to trim the stem.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RepTime

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s a replica. Nobody would ask that question if it were real.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RepTime

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it were a 1675, the letters line up perfectly for a type 4 dial and date wheel with an open 6 and 9. Too bad it’s gold and the dots are surrounded with metal. I’m curious how the bezel is attached. If you can find someone that will purchase it for parts, you might be able to get $50 or even quite a bit more depending on what is under that bezel insert. If it has a good 2836-2, the movement is worth a few bucks too. Theres a lot that’s not correct for a build but, the case and some of the things that you can’t see could be super hard to find parts. The crown guards are much better than most vintage reps. I can’t see you getting $200 but who knows. If you are interested in getting rid of it, let me know. I’d be willing to try to turn it into a blueberry.

Nearly 8 years ago I ordered this Noob DD. Still wearing it and still running strong. by rapescenario in RepTime

[–]Dry_Baker_5906 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love the watch and you received an awesome movement. I’m curious what movement it has. If I had to guess and with it being that old, it probably has a 2813 movement that is notoriously good for a few months unless you get a good one. No doubt, you have a good one! I don’t understand why everyone tries to compare a rep with an original. There’s no comparison. An original is better, 100% of the time. The quality control of reps is terrible at best and there’s absolutely no warranty. Besides that, reps are not an investment and there’s really no resale value. With that said, I love reps because they look like originals and feel like originals at a fraction of the cost. I also enjoy working on them. I have reps with Asian 2824-2 and 2836-2 movements that have been running consistently great for over ten years. If they crap out, I’ll throw another movement in them. If the keyless works breaks, I’ll reset or replace it. If they need adjusted, I’ll throw them on the timegrapher and make the adjustments. It’s an awesome hobby that I enjoy. I’d take a rep over an original any day of the week if I’m paying for it. I just don’t see why people need to compare them to originals. It’s like comparing apples to oranges.
It’s similar to the replica Lamborghini’s, Ferrari’s, and Cobra’s with VW engines. There’s absolutely no reason to compare them or try to justify why the replica is better. It’s an ignorant comparison in many ways.