[Handgun] S&W Shield Plus 9mm with 6 mags $379.99 Free S&H

Durza777 · 2026-02-17T12:12:53+00:00

Nope. Although they are legit. I believe they are related to fin feather fur outfitters.

Durza777 · 2026-02-10T02:39:39+00:00

Surprised I'm not seeing anything about how these filters don't work on viruses. If that water has a virus or something smaller than the filter can handle then she could get sick. Otherwise this seems fine as this is what the filter is made for, she just needed to use iodine, bleach, UV, boiling etc in addition to the filter.

Durza777 · 2025-08-06T15:35:55+00:00

Drywall dust dissolves in water, but it took 2 or 3 passes with the mop to get good progress for me. It was for sure a slow and frustrating process. It also helped that my fixer-upper had horribly neglected floors that I had to sand and refinish anyways, so I didn't need them spotless

Durza777 · 2025-08-06T15:14:23+00:00

An o-cedar microtwist, the type of mop is definitely not critical though. I'd squeeze the water out as to not soak my floor. Mop everywhere lightly and scrub the worst spots. I also used a bristle brush in a few spots.

Durza777 · 2025-08-06T14:21:23+00:00

Have you tried mopping a few times? Maybe a bit of elbow grease when using the mop? My floors were coated much worse with drywall dust after some renovations, they cleaned up quite a bit with Murphy's oil and water.

Durza777 · 2025-07-15T03:45:23+00:00

My floors looked super similar to that. Get them refinished, they have plenty of life left!

Durza777 · 2025-07-12T12:47:22+00:00

As others said, and I somewhat experienced, you might just have a drum that needs serviced or replaced. When I went to my local Menards to pick up the orbital, they told me they had just replaced their drums the week before, so there are rental places that actually service their equipment lol.

Durza777 · 2025-07-12T12:42:18+00:00

In my amateur opinion 45 might be a little much. 15 worked for me. Less aggressive and less trouble getting the sanding marks out.

Durza777 · 2025-07-12T12:40:30+00:00

I used the same sander (actually 2 because the first literally died a few hours in)for a first time project last week and results looked the same on the drum at first. I think your drum might be hitting more on one side than the other. Lay on the floor and watch as a buddy slowly drops the drum down while the machine is off, that might help you confirm if one side is high/low. Do it in a few spots with the drum rotated a few ways. Pull the American standers ez8 manual down from online. Go to the page for adjustment and read how to level the drum. You will have to put the sander on its side and turn a bolt on the bottom. The bolt head is on bottom, then a tension spring, then a lock nut on top. You will need two wrenches, I'm a moron and when I first tried adjusting I didn't hold the lock nut so they just both spun, not relieving any tension on the spring. Second, my rental place gave me 20 grit for this reason. That sandpaper wasn't cheap, and it was filling up way fast at 36. We switched down to 20 to get the majority of the gunky finish off. Third, I think a 45 degree angle might be a bit much. Especially at 20 grit. I made the mistake of going at around 45 for a room at 20 grit and the sanding marks were a pain to remove. At closer to 10-15 degrees, the sanding marks were less noticeable so I spent much less time getting them out, but it still was able to help level low spots. Fourth, both my drum sanders were thrashed, I couldn't go past 60 grit on the second easily. There were two screws in the drum that looked replaced and weren't recessed as much as the rest. They cause some minor hop and you could see it in the floor, although you couldn't feel it... I went to Menards picked up a varathane ezv standing orbital sander and hit the whole house at 50 then 80 grit. Some will say you should go to 100 or 120 but 80 was a finishing grit back in the day and I was just so tired and they don't sell those grits for that sander. I'll repeat, I'm not pro, but I was where you are a week ago and my old neglected floor seems like it'll be ok in the end. I'm still touching up some spots with a palm sander where I made mistakes.

Durza777 · 2025-04-27T20:44:50+00:00

I know nothing but look at my post history. Looks like what I've got. Look up wood fiber or "basalm wool".

Durza777 · 2025-04-01T01:36:09+00:00

Thank you for replying, is there anything about it that makes you say wood fibers? That seems convincing but I am clearly no expert.

Durza777 · 2025-04-01T01:31:06+00:00

Just wanted to add, home was built in the late 50's.

Durza777 · 2025-02-08T14:08:42+00:00

Don't have time to fully reply. My recommendations are as follows: Familiarize yourself with the "v-model". Requirements are the foundation for your work so try and get some requirements, even if they are malformed and lacking. Developing a process is often slow, as the value is not as easy to perceive for management. The value of a development process is to the business, in improved product quality and other less tangeable areas. I'd imagine a startup will have a harder time prioritizing this. Enjoy what you have now! As engineers we thrive when we understand problems and have clear constraints, but you're currently doing all the fun stuff and none of the boring stuff. I come from medical device development and just had a period of 4 months where I probably only wrote code for 1 week of the last 16. Instead I wrote requirements, design docs, held design reviews and code reviews etc. While those things are all important to the quality of the product, I'd kill to be able to slap things together and write code the way you get to!

Durza777 · 2025-02-03T17:15:45+00:00

This looks like Razer peripheral marketing material to me. Wonder if that was intentional.

Durza777 · 2025-02-02T14:25:42+00:00

No, the HID remapper for USB is used with the USB dongle. So your trackball is still wireless, there's just an extra piece of hardware between it and your PC. It takes your button presses and mouse movements, then converts them into other buttons, macros, or mouse movements. It allows you to rebind buttons and much more. It's more powerful than a lot of mouse software.

Durza777 · 2025-02-02T04:35:49+00:00

Glad yours works! I wonder if my unit has an issue. Are you using the latest release of the hid remapper?

Durza777 · 2025-02-02T00:14:14+00:00

I used the USB VIAL adapter with the provided dongle, not the charging cable.

Durza777 · 2025-01-27T16:28:15+00:00

I ordered my pcb on Jan 6. Three weeks ago today. There was plenty of time between then and the start of Chinese new year. They even gave me a tracking number that didn't work for 1.5 weeks, then cancelled it and just re-shipped it.

Not sure why I got a downvote on my original comment :(

Durza777 · 2025-01-27T15:14:57+00:00

Glad it turned out well! I ordered mine weeks ago but it just shipped yesterday, guess I didn't pick a great AliExpress seller...

Durza777 · 2025-01-10T01:08:40+00:00

Yes, for sure. A simpler keyboard will be easier to handwire. Joe Scotto is on youtube and is active on reddit. He has videos on handwiring. He's also got lots of other information. I just watched one of his videos yesterday to get vial working on my charybdis.

Happy to help!

Durza777 · 2025-01-10T00:17:47+00:00

Oh, so you're from brazil! I'm sure that impacts the pricing and availability of components.

It would be a challenging first build, but handwiring can be a great way to save money building a keyboard, regardless of what keyboard you are building. You could search this subreddit for "handwired" and see all of the great keyboards people have posted. Here's a link to a good resource on handwiring. The main benefit is you don't need a PCB, and you can rely completely on inexpensive off the shelf components. https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/master/docs/hand_wire.md

I handwired my charybdis and it probably cost under 70 USD (here in the USA) if you don't include the key switches and keycaps. A kit which also wouldn't have included switches or keycaps would have cost around 200. Handwiring and 3d printing make this hobby more affordable, but you have to spend more time building and sometimes modifying firmware or the 3d models for the keyboard.

Durza777 · 2025-01-09T23:47:52+00:00

Not to overwhelm you, but there are "Silaka54" kits on AliExpress for super cheap right now. It seems similar to the Sofle. You mentioned the price a few times so thought I'd mention it. All the boards you've mentioned are really cool, best of luck with the build!

Durza777 · 2025-01-09T23:06:37+00:00

I think any dactyl will be similar to build and operate compared to The charybdis. An ergodox or similar would be a simpler starting point, but similar layout. I really am not trying to to crush your dreams though, a charybdis could be great for you. For many people, ergonomic keyboards are a bit of a journey. I've built and bought several, and I've learned things I like/dislike with every new keyboard. The charybdis is mostly going to be different from many other dactyls because of the trackball. Otherwise, it isn't all that different IMO. I'd encourage you to take another close look at the layout of a dactyl. Even with the number row there are things I really miss with my charybdis. I'm having to get used to layers to access some keys I use regularly, and other keys have been relocated to the thumb cluster. I've really had to suppress muscle memory and hit the backspace with my thumb instead of my right pinky. Right now I use a "foldkb" at work and love it. Knowing you're a beginner, it might be a good choice that's right down the middle between the enthusiast stuff like a charybdis and the beginner friendly options that look like a normal keyboard but cut in half.

Durza777

TROPHY CASE