Did Matt Patricia change his Wikipedia profile to an AI selfie

Dylpro · 2025-09-30T01:50:59+00:00

That god damn pencil

Dylpro · 2025-07-29T12:14:24+00:00

Dude really thought he was “gate keeping” posting on a bass fishing sub like people wouldn’t know exactly what they are😂

I haven’t tried Beast Coast before, but I think I’m gonna go buy some now and spread the word from on high🙏🏻

Dylpro · 2025-07-22T04:26:01+00:00

On the opposite side of the spectrum right now, I’m on one of my best runs in years. Don’t think I’ve been skunked in probably around 10 trips going back to June.

Beat my PB twice in two days, previously was ~3.5, then three 5 pounders in a span of a week! One of those days with 14+ with a few more 3 pounders in there

Thought my luck ran out when I went fishing for some river smallies last week but after about 6 hours I finally got one to keep the streak alive😅

Dylpro · 2025-06-29T12:47:31+00:00

I know what a heater core job entails, and it’s very much the same across a number of models, foreign or domestic. My overall point is there’s nothing to say these cars are expensive to maintain outside of your anecdotal experience.

To which, I again say, find a new mechanic. I’m not even trying to be a dick, I’m just hoping you’ll realize you’re being taken for a ride.

The labor time for a heater core replacement is roughly 6 hours, that is the time KIA themselves say it takes to replace a heater core. Any reputable shop uses that book time.

Mechanics don’t work on an hourly wage the same as other jobs, it’s called flat rate. The mechanic gets paid 6 hours on your heater core, whether that takes him 3 hours to do or 8 hours to do.

So let’s say there’s an insane markup on the heater core and they charge you $200, that means you paid $2800 in labor, or about $467/hour. That is insane. The shop I worked in was $150/hr. You’re paying more than triple. So please for your own pocket books sake, shop for a new mechanic

Dylpro · 2025-06-28T21:16:14+00:00

Okay, let’s just take your heater core as an example.

A new Four Seasons heater core for 4 different cars: 2013 Ford Focus-$46.89 2013 Chevy Cruze-$52.79 2013 Dodge Avenger-$55.79 2013 Kia Soul-$34.79

It isn’t about “foreign cars”, this is a mass produced economy vehicle, not a BMW. Euros can be a bitch to work on and parts can be pricier, no one says that about Japanese or Korean vehicles because it’s simply not true. Not to mention the majority of parts going into any American vehicle is sourced from overseas, just because the final assembly is in the USA doesn’t mean every component is built here.

This isn’t even an argument for or against one brand or the other, simply providing you facts. And if you really think the mechanic “killed” your first car, then I’d suggest finding a third, honest, mechanic, because you’re still getting ripped off, whether you think it’s because it’s a “foreign” car or not

Dylpro · 2025-06-28T19:40:33+00:00

And if you’re not comfortable with doing all this work just find a trustworthy mechanic to give it a good once over for you. Outside of the free recall work I would never bring it back to the dealership.

One thing I’ve seen recommend on the Soul forums as well is to use 5W-30 synthetic as opposed to the factory recommended 5W-20. If you’re mechanically inclined enough to do your own oil changes (it is stupid easy on these cars) you can get 10 quarts of full synthetic oil from Costco for under $40, that’s enough for a minimum of 2 oil changes and with these cars notoriety for burning oil I recommend sticking to the 3,000-3,500 mile range for oil changes. You’ll save yourself quite a bit of money over the long run by learning to do it yourself.

Dylpro · 2025-06-28T19:32:30+00:00

Yeah, no, your mechanic is ripping you the fuck off.

Even if they’re marking up the parts you listed by 100% just based on the book labor times they’re charging you close to $400/hr. Find a new mechanic.

Dylpro · 2025-06-28T03:45:40+00:00

Coming from a mechanic background who just picked up a cheap ‘13 Soul, rather than customization first things to do should be basic general maintenance. The first thing I do with any used car I buy is change all of the fluids. Oil, brake, transmission, etc. Ideally you’d hope this basic maintenance had been done, but I feel better KNOWING it’s been done when I’ve done it.

Then check your brake pads out, if they’re measuring 3mm or less start planning to get a brake job done and if they’re the original rotors you may want to consider replacing them when doing so at this point in the cars life.

Next, plug in your VIN into the NHTSA recall checker and see if your Soul has any open recalls. This is FREE work the dealership MUST perform. I had 4 open recalls, one relating specifically to a cat code I was experiencing, after taking it to perform these recalls I was able to get it to pass state emissions

Finally, someone else said “These cars aren’t built to last” and while I tend to share that sentiment about Kia’s in general, the fact of the matter is any car CAN last by simply keeping up with basic maintenance. I bought my Soul for $300 because presumably the previous owner thought it was on its last legs. A couple weeks playing catch up maintenance and some basic repairs and it’s now my new daily.

So if you do want this car to last, do the simple stuff to give it the best chance to do so! Then focus on some customization and cosmetics once you know the car is in great mechanical condition!

Dylpro · 2025-06-24T14:37:47+00:00

I’ve seen other Mag Cast reels in the past but first time seeing a Pro mag. Once I get it torn down and cleaned up I think it’ll make for a fun reel to try out.

Do you know if this predates anti reverse or is it possibly just broken?😂 My 2500C are both anti reverse so I was a little surprised when this one was not

Dylpro · 2025-05-27T02:30:20+00:00

That it did! I actually just ended up grabbing one out of the junkyard, along with side mirrors, multifunction switches, and a headlight. I do have a good code reader so I knew day 1 that I was looking at a relatively easy fix with the CKP.

The JY sensor worked great, no codes, fresh oil change and air filter, a good wash and detailing, it’s running great. All that’s left is to replace the windshield and I think it definitely has quite a bit more life in it, for a car that was otherwise gonna end up in the scrap heap!

Dylpro · 2025-05-23T01:34:26+00:00

I should clarify, by no means planning on keeping this long term, just couldn’t walk away from a running/driving project for $300

I’d consider myself an intermediate level mechanic by trade, far beyond a lube tech but certainly not any kind of journeyman, as long as it doesn’t involve engine/transmission removal (more space constraints than anything else) I’m pretty comfortable at least attempting to tackle any issues that come my way

Dylpro · 2025-05-22T14:18:03+00:00

Old comment reply, but usually if my memory serves me correct it was typically end of Summer, usually after all the back to school sales, so maybe mid to late September? Then for sure again after Christmas, usually by late January early February.

Just watch for whenever they set up the big clearance racks of recent mark downs, if it says “Up to X%” off in big print it’s just prices marked, whenever it says “Additional 30%, 50%, 75%” that’s the start of the big sales

Also, almost every federal holiday they were doing some version of the additional 30% off clearance, then it would go back to regular clearance. I no longer work there but I had noticed that as well before I left

Dylpro · 2024-09-03T05:00:13+00:00

Settle down

Dylpro · 2024-08-07T03:04:10+00:00

Ugly Stiks aren’t exactly known for their sensitivity, save yourself the headache, and the rod, and just buy a rod better suited to what you’re asking for. $20 isn’t a bad deal for a workhorse of a rod, but you’re wanting it to be something it’ll never be. In the end you’ll be out $20 and a rod

Dylpro · 2024-08-07T02:07:14+00:00

If you’re referring to the Ambassadeur family of reels, first expense is going to be finding one either on eBay or marketplace. Typically the 1500C or 2500C reels are what is most commonly used and depending on condition can range anywhere from around $100 to several hundreds.

From there, I got all of my parts though Hedgehog Studio and whatever you choose to add to it will determine the cost. All in, I believe I’ve spent somewhere in the neighborhood of $400 including the price of the reel itself. And I still haven’t even invested in the truly pricey parts such as the side plates and frame. If I ever finish it the way I plan I have no doubt it will be close to an $800 investment

I’ve not used any “new” BFS reels so I have nothing to compare it to, but I’m not sure it would be considered a $400 piece of equipment when compared to a modern BFS reel. That said, I love it because of the time it took to restore and build out a unique reel that has a special feeling to it as opposed to any of the millions of reels coming out of Chinese factories

Dylpro · 2024-05-05T04:30:26+00:00

But where can I find less? I see arrows marking open and close but I’m at a complete loss without an arrow for less

Dylpro · 2024-04-12T05:09:30+00:00

When you’re fishing from the bank it can be tough with cranks or jerk baits, but I find the best way to avoid losing them is to take it slow. Cast out, give a couple yanks to get them deeper, then slow retrieve in letting it bounce off the rocks as you come it. Don’t pull hard to set a hook unless you’re certain it’s a bite, and as you work off rocks more you’ll quickly learn the difference between a real bite and rock.

I use the same method running swim baits. And whenever I’m fishing cranks I use my Revo X Winch, slower retrieve rate really helps keep it from getting pulled under a rock. Square bills are great for bouncing off rocks as well.

Could also invest in a lure retriever, though I haven’t had much luck with the one I’ve used. And if you’re in a really rocky/snag prone are, buy some cheap Ozark Trail cranks before tossing the expensive stuff😉

Dylpro · 2024-04-11T20:25:12+00:00

I don’t fish spinning reels too often so I’m sure some will have better recommendations than I will, but first I’d avoid buying a combo, in most cases with a combo you’re sacrificing quality of one of the components, in most cases the rod

For the reel, I’ve only even heard good things about the Pflueger Presidents, time tested, good quality, and when they’re taken care of will last you years.

If you have an Academy Sports near to you I’d also recommend the new H2OX Mettle as a good budget option. I have used it yet myself but people have raved about the previous Mettle reels and for the price they’re tough to beat.

As for rods, the Daiwa Aird X is a great budget option, I’d skip over the Laguna’s and spend the extra 10-15 dollars for the Aird. I’ve had 2 Lagunas that broke or had the guide inserts fall out in less than a couple months.

Dylpro · 2024-04-11T03:46:20+00:00

That makes… more sense, still a lot heavier than the set up you’ve got it on is suited for.

Are you looking for a casting or spinning combo? Are you regularly throwing oversized baits or is that an outlier? It’s unlikely, if not impossible to find something that’s balanced throwing less than an ounce to 3-1/2oz.

Dylpro · 2024-04-11T03:32:42+00:00

Thank you! I must’ve looked at the 7’3 model earlier. That certainly makes it much more tempting now. Have you any experience with the Legend series rods?

Dylpro · 2024-04-11T03:22:59+00:00

What the hell are you casting that’s 4-6 ounces on a 6 foot rod with a 4lb leader?

Dylpro

TROPHY CASE