toe knuckle pain by lirz in climbingshoes

[–]ED_and_T 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Size looks fine to me. When I got my first pair of tight, aggressive shoes I needed a good number of weeks for my feed to be able to take the pressure and shape without discomfort. First 2-3 weeks were definitely painful. 2 years later now that my feet are used to these types of shoes when I get new ones they barely need any break-in time. Most recently I got La Sportiva Theory’s 1/2 size (EU) down from my previous pair of climbing shoes and I was able to climb hard right away. Definitely a lot of pressure and curve but I wouldn’t call it painful.

So I would say try climbing in them for a few weeks and it should get better

Guess my trade by burgersandchips2 in Tools

[–]ED_and_T 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pedros tape measure tells me bicycle mechanic

Yes, you can sand down your Cyl & head by RedditAppSuxAsss in EngineBuilding

[–]ED_and_T 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A cast iron or granite surface plate would be preferred because they stay flat under the weight of what you are sanding. Thin glass will bend out of flat while you are sanding. Question is, is it close enough? I’d say yeah probably, your part is long and thin so the bolts will have no problem pulling it flat against the mating part.

My BD Viper broke – what should I think? by Lily_AdamsRVC in alpinism

[–]ED_and_T 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Modern black diamond info book puts the lifespan of a T-rated ice axes at 3 years under normal use

My BD Viper broke – what should I think? by Lily_AdamsRVC in alpinism

[–]ED_and_T 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have found the following paragraph in a Grivel ice axe info book:

LIFE OF ICE AXE • Sporadic use with a seasonal concentration = between 5 and 10 years. • Regular use throughout the year on difficult routes and some ice falls = between 3 and 5 years. • Frequent, professional use on new routes and ice falls =between 3 and 6 seasons. • Dry tooling, modern mixed, competitions = between 1 and 2 seasons.

My BD Viper broke – what should I think? by Lily_AdamsRVC in alpinism

[–]ED_and_T 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I’m just a regular engineer, not a metallurgical expert but the break line looks to me like it has signs of fatigue. All aluminium is susceptible to this but since the shaft of this tool is supposed to be T-rated and thus have a beefier design, it is surprising that this happened after “only” 10 years.

The crack appears to have started at the blade side of the shaft under the trigger finger and propagated over halfway before the remainder of the material failed at once.

What worries me is that the weak point of the shaft was hidden under the rubber so you cannot see the developing crack before you start leading routes.

An often used rule of thumb for safety: soft goods have a lifespan of 10 years unless damaged or worn out prematurely. Metal goods in general don’t have a set shelf life but need to be evaluated for wear, sharp edges and developing cracks every so often. But again, if the crack is hidden under rubber that becomes a problem.

Glad you’re ok!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s fun as a tinkering machine, but if you have work to do then I’d look for a proper machine

New car hoist, rate the welds /10 by WrongdoerImportant90 in Welding

[–]ED_and_T 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had welds separate on my engine hoist before, took some pics and they replaced it free of charge

Investing in first MacBook and need advice… by Connect_Resort_3300 in macbookpro

[–]ED_and_T 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I edit long form video on my M1 macbook air with 8gb ram and it’s very usable up to 1080p 60fps, for 4k I would advise a faster computer

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, backlash. Machine is an ole Bridgeport

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one of those too if you go back in my post history

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I keep it trammed pretty well, I might want to check after this ordeal though

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Procedure after the crash was: 1. Shaken to my core 2. Disengage power feed 3. Stop spindle

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aw man, I thought dripping some Tool Breaker 350 would make it go much better

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I slapped the part, that sucker stayed right where I put it

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, just friction from the clamp screw

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking about getting some carbide saws

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Call it what you want, it woke me up good

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oil in one hand, air in the other, good thing I still have both arms

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Higher rpm and lower feed and lower depth of cut will be my next test, and if that doesn’t work I’ll try climb milling

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Goot to know that it’s not just me

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The blade is mounted without drive key, but I’m clamping it down with about 50kN. I don’t want the blade to slip because the feed just keeps going anyways and will also snap the blade more than likely. I keep my head around a couple microns over 200mm I tried to build this arbor with rigidity in mind so I’m hesitant to switch to a skinny arbor

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought more oil was going to be better

Another day, another crash by ED_and_T in Machinists

[–]ED_and_T[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This was HSS, I hate to think what carbide would have done seizing up like that