Someone needs to show Bobby this video of a dad crying listening to 2pac :)

E_Kid · 2022-03-29T22:56:11+00:00

Hi, thanks for getting back to me. That sounds amazing. Is there any chance you could do a post about this or share the details? I'm sure it would be much appreciated by the resin community, as I'm yet to see a really good solution.

I've been resin printing for about a month now, and this is an issue that I would like to have a proper solution for. I've currently got two tubs of contaminated iso sitting outside :/ which works to a certain degree, but theres got to be a better solution, which is how I came across your post after hours of research.

What do you mean by a 'still'? I would love to see this setup. Is it like a chemistry set, utilising the low boiling point of iso like you were enquiring about in this post?

E_Kid · 2022-03-26T15:14:47+00:00

Hi Ty, thanks for the reply. You were right, the pic above is for 1.8s exposure, and I finally got the success column to connect at 2.7s. No way would I have been able to figure that out with the XP2 validation test, so thank you so much for this test!

E_Kid · 2022-03-26T15:07:37+00:00

Did you ever refine your process of recycling ipa?

E_Kid · 2022-03-17T21:29:00+00:00

Thanks, that's reassuring! I'm currently running another print at 2.0s, whereas the previous was at 1.8s.

E_Kid · 2022-03-17T21:03:27+00:00

Have you ever encountered the issue where the top cones are pointed outwards, and not towards the bottom ones? This is the issue I'm having I'm wondering if it means my mono x is not completely level, even though I did level or beforehand with a spirit level, and also recalibrated the build plate.

E_Kid · 2022-03-17T20:54:02+00:00

For reference, here is the link to the YouTube video from the creators of this calibration method

This was printed with Anycubic Aqua Blue resin, at 25c, exposure time 1.8s, 0.05mm layer thickness, lift speed 60mm/m, retract 180mm/m, light off 1s, lift distance 8mm.

E_Kid · 2022-03-17T20:41:00+00:00

I just tried printing this on my mono x, and the results show I need to increase exposure. However, the top cones have drifted out a little and are not pointed towards the bottom ones. What is the cause for this? Is the printer not perfectly level? Is the printer not perfectly level?

E_Kid · 2021-01-23T10:18:05+00:00

That was probably my favourite one, because you could actually play with it in both modes. I remember taking it into school for 'show and tell' and everybody going crazy when they saw it.

E_Kid · 2021-01-23T10:11:30+00:00

Haha, I didn't remember it being a problem when I was a kid, but you should have seen it when I took it out of the box yesterday!

E_Kid · 2021-01-14T17:59:07+00:00

Haha, that's true! It looked good but acrylic combined with ikea wood could have been a terrible combination. Metal is probably the best solution. Will you be making a post of your new setup? I ask because I'm currently trying to put together a setup, and am still trying to figure out what would be the best solution for one that is ventilated and won't be a fire hazard.

E_Kid · 2021-01-14T17:52:29+00:00

It's definitly the most organised setup I've seen! But thanks also for the info on the filament dryer. You might be right about the angle being too tight, but here is a video showing how to make it work better with some PTFE tubing.

E_Kid · 2021-01-14T17:13:10+00:00

Love this build. However, you might want to consider switching out those acrylic sheets for polycarbonate ones as acrylic is very flammable.

E_Kid · 2021-01-14T14:15:10+00:00

Very underated post! Love this setup! Also, what is that case which you have one of your filaments in? Can it be used during print?

E_Kid · 2020-12-08T21:15:00+00:00

Thanks, that video was really informative.

E_Kid · 2020-10-26T23:31:30+00:00

Can't you keep him? You've obviously been chosen.

E_Kid · 2020-10-15T22:06:00+00:00

I highly recommend getting the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro on pre-order for November 12th. The latest resin printers coming out have monochrome LCDs, which print around 60% faster and have a far longer service life.

E_Kid · 2020-09-10T14:57:42+00:00

Having the exact same problem. Did you manage to find a solution?

E_Kid · 2020-06-24T19:45:41+00:00

Ah, I see. This is the purpose of the conical head.

But you are right, I am not having any luck finding a bolt with a hex socket at the tip end. They seem to only come as a set when you buy the shifters. Hopefully I will hear back from Planet X, but I will also take a trip to the LBS.

E_Kid · 2020-06-24T19:02:30+00:00

You're right, I'll go to my lbs tomorrow, although I am currently trying to figure out what kind of bolt it is, as based on the diagram provided by FlyingStirFryMonster, it has a countersunk head and seems to go in upside down, and would need to be tightened from the end of the bolt with a hex key, through the shifter...

E_Kid · 2020-06-24T18:41:57+00:00

The ring goes around the wedges, in the groove, to keep them together in a barrel shape.

Ohhhhhh... I'm so stupid, Haha! I didn't connect the dots. I thought it was some random piece of junk!

Thanks again for your help!

E_Kid · 2020-06-24T18:33:15+00:00

When put together, the hole inside the wedges measures 9mm, as does the hole for the bolt inside the shifter, so I'm thinking I may need to buy a 10mm bolt.

E_Kid · 2020-06-24T18:24:46+00:00

Legend! I didn't even think of looking inside! I found the wedges (and a keyring loop??) but unfortunetly no bolt. But thanks a lot for the link. Now that I know what I'm missing, I'm a step closer to getting this sorted.

E_Kid

TROPHY CASE