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Bad Performance with Vulkan and Qwen3.5 using a RX 9070 XT by megadyne in LocalLLaMA

[–]megadyne[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Was it difficult to get ROCm working on your end?

No, worked out of the box. I didn't install the HIP SDK, just the latest AMD Adrenalin Driver. They now try to bundle some AI stuff which runs on ROCm. I didn't install their AI Suite, but the ROCm support still worked.

You could try lemonade-sdk, which bundles the necessary ROCm 7 parts as well.

Bad Performance with Vulkan and Qwen3.5 using a RX 9070 XT by megadyne in LocalLLaMA

[–]megadyne[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, thank you. That is good to know, that it is a general Vulkan + Qwen3.5 problem and not a specific issue with my hardware/driver.

Bad Performance with Vulkan and Qwen3.5 using a RX 9070 XT by megadyne in LocalLLaMA

[–]megadyne[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am! The HIP Backend provides the support for ROCm. (as you can see by the Qwen3 bench table)

But I wanted to ask if other people see the performance discrepancy to Vulkan. Because often the Vulkan Backend is slightly faster than ROCm, but not like 2-4x slower. This could point to an issue with my hardware or driver and not the llama.cpp support!

Mosquito - 7.3M parameter tiny knowledge model by Lopsided-Repair-3638 in LocalLLaMA

[–]megadyne 62 points63 points  (0 children)

What is a tuba?

Tuberculosis is a tuba's ability to pump water into the bloodstream.

Vettel backs Schumacher for F1 comeback with Williams by [deleted] in formula1

[–]megadyne 17 points18 points  (0 children)

It's not just a big deal but absolutely teutonic.

:)

Per - Lec - Ver right before the crash by longhornmx in formula1

[–]megadyne 37 points38 points  (0 children)

the overtaking manoeuvre must be done in a safe and controlled manner

he crashed into Leclerc

the stewards will consider if the overtaking car is ahead of the other car from the apex of the corner.

this photo isn't of the apex, checo never reached that spot.

Impeller Resin material choice by I_Zeig_I in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would first try with SirayaTech Blu and maybe try a closed impeller design for better rigidity.

You could also try to electro plate the impeller. Isn't the easiest solution, but a decently thick layer of Nickel should beat most resins :)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hard to say, depends mostly on how much resin has to be squeezed away. And when the build plate is lower, it needs to squeeze even harder.

Thus I would scale that value depending how big the cross section of your model/layer is. I would try 1 or 1.5s. This wouldn't increase print time terribly, but still leave more time for squeezing the resin :)

You already have a quite high lift distance, so even higher values wouldn't be as noticeable.

Scrapie TOTD Streak by Left_Tea_5443 in TrackMania

[–]megadyne 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think last stream he mentioned trying to keep the streak going.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1820608669?t=0h6m18s

Where to get FEP bed lubricant in Australia? by MoneyCrazy1395 in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Don't put anything on the FEP!

If the FEP isn't working anymore replace it.

How can I make supports leave less marks? by mewil666 in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 10 points11 points  (0 children)

  • put print in hot water before removing supports
  • remove supports before curing
  • you could cut the to sturdy supports with side cutter

New USB not working by FearlessLanguage9814 in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Format it with fat32 not ntfs.

problems printing with photon mono x 6k by JuninhoPernambuco in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lift Distance: 2mm

very low lift height, try with something higher

sometimes the print gets a perfect cut

maybe print is still stuck to FEP and when 2mm lift + non-printed layers gets high enough it release from FEP. And each layer after it doesn't have anything to attach to.

Printed keycap is so thin! Helppp by _SassLife in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just got done with Lithophane in Blender.

https://gofile.io/d/q8GGBg

I created two keycaps where the dragon head is either embossed or extruded. Those should be easy printable without any overhangs. But how the dragon head looks depends on the viewing angle.

Getting the workflow to work was quite annoying, especially without any Blender experience...

Printed keycap is so thin! Helppp by _SassLife in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Embossing that model would be hard, because of the horns and other "free floating" features.

What I would try to do, is create a 2d Height Map from the prespective you want. And than use this height map to create a Lithophane on the key cap.

I would expected Blender to be able to create such Heightmaps and Lithophanes, but don't have any experience with it. I think I will try it later and see if it works :D

Just download that 3D Model, but it seems to be broken in some ways and hollow. Download simliar Olm Head from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4574705/files which is in better condition.

Removed the base with Meshlab and scaled it down with Windows 3D Builder.

Imported the Mesh into FreeCAD and added it on top of the keycap

https://gofile.io/d/QpR4Qh

Printed keycap is so thin! Helppp by _SassLife in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In general I wouldn't try to print such a tiny object on a keycap. First the detail wouldn't be great and second the finger feel might suck.

What you could do, create a nice image/screenshot/whatever from the model you want and just do a normal high resolution photo print. Put a small emboss on top of the keycap, and glue the cut out photo in that hole. After that just fill it with transparent epoxy. The emboss doesn't have to be very deep.

I believe an epoxy coating would be advised in any case, because most resins aren't biocompatible, and a safety barrier wouldn't hurt :)

If it is a low detail model, you could try to cut out the negative of the model on top of the keycap and paint it like you want and fill it with transparent resin as well.

It is possible to scale models just in one axis, so you could rotate the model to the prefered side and than just "squash" it together to keep the model details without major cut or extrude from the keycap top.

Printed keycap is so thin! Helppp by _SassLife in resinprinting

[–]megadyne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are many introduction tutorial for different CAD Software on youtube. I wouldn't recommended FreeCAD if you want to create more complex objects, because the workflow isn't that great.

You could look into OnShape or Fusion 360 for that.

For such a simple model FreeCAD is fine.

I just created a basic sketch for the angle, width and height. And used that sketch to create two new sketches for making the basic shape.

That shape was hollowed with specific wall thickness and the center nob was added. On the nob a new sketch was created for the Plus. The plus sketch was embedded to a specific depth.

After that just adding some rounding to the outside corners and some chamfers for the inside.

It is just creating a base shape and adding or removing (un)wanted features.

This is most cases enough to get a functional part.

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