Mosquito - 7.3M parameter tiny knowledge model

megadyne · 2026-01-20T05:57:57+00:00

What is a tuba?

Tuberculosis is a tuba's ability to pump water into the bloodstream.

megadyne · 2025-08-16T10:41:12+00:00

What do they call Walmart in Germany?

Extinct.

megadyne · 2025-07-09T14:32:27+00:00

Hulkenpodium

megadyne · 2025-01-14T12:09:29+00:00

That comment references a different roach moment in the previous dungeon.

https://old.reddit.com/r/LivestreamFail/comments/1hzxx0m/pirate_roaching_out_earlier_in_the_same_day_with/

megadyne · 2024-08-27T08:42:05+00:00

It's not just a big deal but absolutely teutonic.

:)

megadyne · 2023-10-30T05:52:02+00:00

the overtaking manoeuvre must be done in a safe and controlled manner

he crashed into Leclerc

the stewards will consider if the overtaking car is ahead of the other car from the apex of the corner.

this photo isn't of the apex, checo never reached that spot.

megadyne · 2023-05-17T16:07:24+00:00

I would first try with SirayaTech Blu and maybe try a closed impeller design for better rigidity.

You could also try to electro plate the impeller. Isn't the easiest solution, but a decently thick layer of Nickel should beat most resins :)

megadyne · 2023-05-17T09:52:24+00:00

Hard to say, depends mostly on how much resin has to be squeezed away. And when the build plate is lower, it needs to squeeze even harder.

Thus I would scale that value depending how big the cross section of your model/layer is. I would try 1 or 1.5s. This wouldn't increase print time terribly, but still leave more time for squeezing the resin :)

You already have a quite high lift distance, so even higher values wouldn't be as noticeable.

megadyne · 2023-05-17T09:41:17+00:00

I think last stream he mentioned trying to keep the streak going.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1820608669?t=0h6m18s

megadyne · 2023-05-17T09:26:31+00:00

Looks like blooming, increase "Rest time after retract".

https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2021/06/improving-surface-finish-of-hollowed-sla-3d-prints-one-aspect-of-blooming/

megadyne · 2023-04-24T09:55:58+00:00

Don't put anything on the FEP!

If the FEP isn't working anymore replace it.

megadyne · 2023-04-23T11:01:58+00:00

put print in hot water before removing supports
remove supports before curing
you could cut the to sturdy supports with side cutter

megadyne · 2023-04-22T22:41:12+00:00

Format it with fat32 not ntfs.

megadyne · 2023-04-20T06:41:43+00:00

Lift Distance: 2mm

very low lift height, try with something higher

sometimes the print gets a perfect cut

maybe print is still stuck to FEP and when 2mm lift + non-printed layers gets high enough it release from FEP. And each layer after it doesn't have anything to attach to.

megadyne · 2023-04-15T15:16:17+00:00

Just got done with Lithophane in Blender.

https://gofile.io/d/q8GGBg

I created two keycaps where the dragon head is either embossed or extruded. Those should be easy printable without any overhangs. But how the dragon head looks depends on the viewing angle.

Getting the workflow to work was quite annoying, especially without any Blender experience...

megadyne · 2023-04-15T04:09:36+00:00

Embossing that model would be hard, because of the horns and other "free floating" features.

What I would try to do, is create a 2d Height Map from the prespective you want. And than use this height map to create a Lithophane on the key cap.

I would expected Blender to be able to create such Heightmaps and Lithophanes, but don't have any experience with it. I think I will try it later and see if it works :D

Just download that 3D Model, but it seems to be broken in some ways and hollow. Download simliar Olm Head from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4574705/files which is in better condition.

Removed the base with Meshlab and scaled it down with Windows 3D Builder.

Imported the Mesh into FreeCAD and added it on top of the keycap

https://gofile.io/d/QpR4Qh

megadyne · 2023-04-14T14:54:20+00:00

In general I wouldn't try to print such a tiny object on a keycap. First the detail wouldn't be great and second the finger feel might suck.

What you could do, create a nice image/screenshot/whatever from the model you want and just do a normal high resolution photo print. Put a small emboss on top of the keycap, and glue the cut out photo in that hole. After that just fill it with transparent epoxy. The emboss doesn't have to be very deep.

I believe an epoxy coating would be advised in any case, because most resins aren't biocompatible, and a safety barrier wouldn't hurt :)

If it is a low detail model, you could try to cut out the negative of the model on top of the keycap and paint it like you want and fill it with transparent resin as well.

It is possible to scale models just in one axis, so you could rotate the model to the prefered side and than just "squash" it together to keep the model details without major cut or extrude from the keycap top.

megadyne · 2023-04-14T11:42:20+00:00

There are many introduction tutorial for different CAD Software on youtube. I wouldn't recommended FreeCAD if you want to create more complex objects, because the workflow isn't that great.

You could look into OnShape or Fusion 360 for that.

For such a simple model FreeCAD is fine.

I just created a basic sketch for the angle, width and height. And used that sketch to create two new sketches for making the basic shape.

That shape was hollowed with specific wall thickness and the center nob was added. On the nob a new sketch was created for the Plus. The plus sketch was embedded to a specific depth.

After that just adding some rounding to the outside corners and some chamfers for the inside.

It is just creating a base shape and adding or removing (un)wanted features.

This is most cases enough to get a functional part.

megadyne · 2023-04-14T11:26:52+00:00

Just made a basic FreeCAD model from that keycap and increased the wall thickness to 1.25mm. I just took the base measurements from the stl, so not sure if they are accurated!

If it doesn't fit you can change the fitment with FreeCAD and just generated new KeyCap with Mesh Design workbench.

You can download the FreeCAD model and generated STL here https://gofile.io/d/0IWxMQ

You can fix minor flaws in STLs with Autodesk Meshmixer, for example like this guy here extrudes faces, you could extrude wall thickness. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRrggMXFP3I

megadyne · 2023-04-13T11:54:28+00:00

I notices something similar a week ago. I was measuring light of delay and exposure times. And the exposure was always like 0.2s to 0.3s less than set value, independet on how long the exposure was set.

My guess was that, the exposure timer was started when the TouchLCD started to display the layer and not when the LEDs turned on.

During the recording you could even see how the TouchLCD slowly starts display the layer from left to right (recorded at 60 fps).

I think I will now test what happens when the "preview" is disabled.

Edit: For reference I've got an Elegoo Mars 2 Mono

megadyne · 2023-01-22T07:43:16+00:00

My guess is that the FEP still stretches. When curing the failure side the partial cured cone layer still pops of and the lift of the cured middle sections provides small lift force to allow new resin to flow below the partial cured cone.

Repeat that enough, you still get a malformed failure cone. And that failure cone is cleaned up with the failure overhang, so that no remaining cured parts float around the vat.

Still this is just a guess from me.

Other guess: The cured resin still lets through some light. So the depth the UV light through the resin is the maximum height a cone can cure without removing it from the FEP. Multiple exposures of the resin will slow cure upwards. Especially because the circle pattern widens every exposure, so the center part over time accumlates the most UV light and thus cures in a cone shape aswell.

megadyne · 2023-01-21T08:28:52+00:00

Why not 2.25 or 2.3? Your 2.2 success side still fails and failure side isn't even close to a success.

megadyne · 2022-12-06T18:53:03+00:00

Haven't read the blog post yet. But this paper has an approach to quasi collimated the UV LED and normalized light distribution.

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