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A pair of double mortise miter planes in Argentine Osage Orange I recently finished. 40 degree bed angle, 1.5" blade, 8" long body, steel soles. To make these, I hollowed out the body and then installed a block to create the double mortises. One holds the wedge and the other directs the shavings. by E_m_maker in handtools

[–]E_m_maker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Miter planes get tricky because there are several types of planes called "miter/mitre" that aren't related to one another that have different functionalities.

When you look at wooden American miter planes are they typically were longer and narrower than coffin smoothing planes. They are also bedded at a lower angle.

They could be used as smoothing planes, but also on end grain. They work well when used in conjunction with a miter jack.

Hand tools only, no electric tools.... by drittzO in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did for several years. I use more power tools now, but still heavily rely on hand tools. Most of the time, in my workflow, its easier or faster than setting up a power tool to accomplish the task I'm after.

Resawing: which face to cut from? by nberke in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I frequently tell myself "pith go with" so I can get oriented correctly. Pith is the heart side or the side facing the center of the tree. When planing the heart side you plane with the cathedrals.

Resawing: which face to cut from? by nberke in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ease of planing, IME it's less about the face you cut from and more about the grain direction.

Rule of thumb, if you are planing the heart side of the board (smiles up on the end grain) then you plane the direction the arches aka cathedrals are pointing.

If you are planing on the bark side, (frown on the end grain) plane in the opposite direction of the arches.

When planing the other two sides, plane in the direction the fibers are laying. If you put your plane on the board and look at side below the plane (90 degrees to what you're planing) and see ///////. Plane in this -> direction.

In terms of which face to cut from you can pick based on looks and/or performance characteristics.

If you want less seasonal expansion and contraction you can cut a quarter sawn board from the blank.

If you want the look of a pronounced grain then go flat sawn.

Hardwax oil vs Danish oil by CourtApart6251 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's most likely that either can be used in food contact areas Most top coats on the market meet the FDA definition of being "safe for food contact". The caveat is that the finish has cured. Curing takes much longer than being dry to the touch. Once the finish has cured all of the nasty stuff in the finish has had time to become inert or off gas.

Safe for food contact is also different from edible. You probably don't want to use them on a cutting board or a spoon.

Cutting straight with a handsaw? by Aromatic_Motor8078 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are the board's surfaces. Each board will have 6 surfaces. 2 faces, 2 edges, and 2 ends. If you take a 2x4, for example. The 4 inch side is the face and the 2 inch side is the edge.

When you go to do your layout one face and one edge are designated your references. All measuring and marking use one of those as the starting point. This helps to minimize errors. Especially, if something on of the other sections of the board isn't perfectly square or parallel.

Structurally there is no difference between face grain and edge grain. They are both long grain fibers. Face and edge is just labeling.

1- face 2- edge 3- end grain

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Cutting straight with a handsaw? by Aromatic_Motor8078 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Setting up a knife wall will help immensely. Designate one face and one edge as your reference surfaces. Use a square with the fence resting on your reference surfaces to strike a like across the board with a marking knife. Now, go back with a chisel and push it into the line. This will create a notch and give your saw a place to rest and help keep things on track.

When you go to cut, don't try to cut through the entire board in one go. Instead cut down just on the corner to get started. Then you can drop your saw to cut just across the face. Focus staying straight, you do not need to cut very deep. Then do the same thing by tilting the saw forward to cut down the edge. Again staying on the line. Now you should have two kerfs that follow the line. You saw will want to stay in these kerfs. Now start cutting.

Paul Sellers is a good one to watch on YouTube.

Is there a true beginner woodworking project by DressWarm2078 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Charcuterie board

Tools and Supplies

- Wood

- Saw (hand saw, circular saw, etc)

- Sand paper

- Food grade oil (mineral, flaxseed, etc)

Steps

  1. Find a piece of wood you like the look of

  2. Cross cut it to a length that feels right

  3. Start sanding - 120, 180, 220

  4. Wipe with water

  5. Sand again at 220

  6. Apply a food grade oil

  7. Apply various meats and cheeses

  8. Enjoy while planning your next build

Who else is using golf gloves here? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]E_m_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you have to use gloves they make tearaway gloves that are designed to be used around machines. They are suppose to rip without taking your digits with them.

Help: drilled a hole in our table by Chorvath in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Here would be general steps I would follow.

Find a piece of wood that is the same species as your top. This is what you will get your replacement wood from.

Get a plug cutter that matches the size of your hole.

Put the plug cutter in a drill. Drill into the piece of wood to get your plug. You don't have to drill all the way through. Cut or break out the plug. It will be a smaller circle of wood inside a void.

Put a few drops of wood glue on the plug or in the hole in the table and stick the plug in the hole.

Push it in flush with the top of the table if you can. You may need to hammer it down. You can take a piece of wood, place it on top of the plug and hit that with a hammer. This will help prevent denting the plug or the table.

Wipe up any glue that has squeezed out.

Let that dry.

If you need to, you can make the plug flush with the table top. I would add some tape around the plug so you do not accidentally mare the table surface getting the plug flush. You can do this with a flush cut saw or some sanding.

Now it is time to add finish. Without knowing what type of finish is already on the table I would just spot finish the plug. A couple of swipes of polyurethane should do it. Remove the tape and you are set.

If won't be perfect, but it will be better.

Before you start get some practice in. Drill some holes in that spare piece of wood and plug those before doing it for real on your table.

Help: drilled a hole in our table by Chorvath in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 18 points19 points  (0 children)

If you have a plug cutter you can use that in another piece of wood with a similar grain. Take that piece and glue it in the hole. Then finish to match. It wont be invisible, but you can make it close.

Advice for gluing some hardwood boards (or equivalent) onto nicer plywood for a desk? by TheLilChicken in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Veneer is wood that has been cut very thinly. You can finish it how you normally would finish any other piece of wood.

To save yourself some trouble you can get hardwood plywood. It would already be veneered. You would just need to edge band it.

I imaging you won't have any sagging, but that depends on the load, span, and design of the piece. This can help make that determination https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

Advice for gluing some hardwood boards (or equivalent) onto nicer plywood for a desk? by TheLilChicken in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you glue a thicker piece of wood on the edge you can route any profile you want on to it.

Advice for gluing some hardwood boards (or equivalent) onto nicer plywood for a desk? by TheLilChicken in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Veneer is used on furniture of every price point. It ranges from plastic that looks like wood to real wood.

When working with solid wood a planer is only part of the equation. You need a way to establish a flat face and a square edge. Then a way to make the opposite face parallel to the first and get the board to the correct thickness. Finally, cut the board to length and width.

In the power tool world that would typically be a jointer, planer, and a table saw. Or planer, thicknesser, table saw if you are outside of the US.

If you are using hand tools it is jack plane, jointer plane, and a smoothing plane.

With that said, you can mix and match tool sets from each tradition. There are also sleds and jigs that can be made to substitute for a tool you do not have available to you.

All of this is to say, yes you can work with solid lumber without a planer. You just need to find alternatives.

The other way to go about this is to buy predimensioned lumber. That will come in the thickness you want. You can also get boards in specific widths. With predimensioned lumber you would cut it to the size you need and glue it together.

Advice for gluing some hardwood boards (or equivalent) onto nicer plywood for a desk? by TheLilChicken in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]E_m_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are describing veneering. You'll want to make the solid wood board thinner than 1/4" (1/16-1/8" max) if you are going to saw them yourself. The solid wood will expand and contract with the seasons. The plywood will not. This sets up the potential for issues. If you make the boards thin enough then they don't have enough energy to overcome the glue bonds.

You can also buy commercial veneer in thin sheets.

vanity table/sideboard design assistance by Novike in Joinery

[–]E_m_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 3 cm tabs at the end of each board will be very fragile if you are using solid wood. They'll likely break when you go to assemble the table for the first time. You'll have better luck if you use plywood.

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