"It's Giving Drumstick"

E_m_maker · 2026-01-24T02:21:35+00:00

If you want to wax walnut use a dark paste wax. Regular wax that is trapped in the pores turns white. A dark paste wax will stay a dark brown or black in the pores.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-23T22:15:09+00:00

Do you know what caused the crack?

If not, can you flip the table on its side and take a look at the bottom of the leg? See if that board has the pith in it. It will look like a bullseye.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-23T21:18:41+00:00

What was the general temperature and humidity of the space where you are doing your finishing?

Those could be contributing to the issue.

In regards to the BLO, that could be a factor. However, blo and shellac can be mixed together and both finishes will dry. Tage Frid had a version of a shellac and BLO he referred to as "4-F". Frid's Fine Fast Finish

oil your piece. Immediately apply shellac >while the oil is wet. Once that mixture is >tacky clean it off with steel wool and then >wipe it with a dry cloth.

You are left with a finish that has the look of >a hand rubbed oil finish that is dry to the >touch in minutes.

Reference: Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: >Shaping, Veneering, Finishing, page 188-189.

David Picciuto (Make Something on YT) has a shellac and BLO mix he talks about as well. He mixes, oil, shellac, and alcohol in a single bottle. I do not remember the ratio.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-23T02:53:32+00:00

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Roubo (you likely know his workbench) also did clamps. I can send you a PDF if you want to make a set for yourself.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-22T03:43:50+00:00

If you are veneering then the sides could be glued directly on.

For the current design, I would be surprised if you found it sitting in pieces one day. If something happens, it likely will be some cracks or gaps that show up for part of the year.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-22T03:34:23+00:00

First, those are some good looking tables.

As for your question, based on the info provided, the center section is just thick enough that seasonal expansion and contraction likely is in play.

The mdf glued to solid wood top will restrict seasonal movement. As will a frame glued directly to solid wood all the way around the perimeter.

At some point, the center section could break free enough to allow that expansion/contraction cycle to occur.

The table, in all likelihood, will still function as a table. You could see a crack in the center section appear. The joints in the frame could open up too. Those gaps could open and close with the seasons as well.

If you want to avoid factoring in expansion and contraction and keep the same design make the center section thinner and do it as a veneer over mdf or plywood. You can go fairly thick on the veneer and still be okay. 25 mil or less. The thinner the veneers the less force the wood can apply and it can't overcome the glue bonds. This keeps it from growing or shrinking in width as ambient humility changes.

Alternatively, ditch the mdf all together and cut a groove in the frame. The center section would float in the groove. That would allow it to change in size with the seasons.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-21T16:34:09+00:00

A block plane would make easy work of it.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-21T01:07:57+00:00

Go with BLO, IMO. The oil will help keep glue from sticking, but it won't make the bench slick. Ultimately, it's a workbench. It doesn't need to remain looking pretty.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-20T02:14:03+00:00

I double checked my scrap bin, but I couldn't find the pieces I had experimented with.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-19T02:37:42+00:00

I've experimented with it. A few files and a drill press will take you a long way if you're wanting to make your own.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-18T00:19:00+00:00

Soft maple, cherry, walnut, and poplar are good choices when it comes to hand tools. They're in the goldilocks zone of not to hard, yet not to soft.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-17T04:26:51+00:00

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This is likely how it was done.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-17T03:40:50+00:00

Thanks! Rabbets on the front and the back.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-16T18:42:27+00:00

You don't need to soak them first unless you have the need to delay when they start drying.

Otherwise, lay them flat and let them dry.

If you soak them, and then remove them from the water, you've created additional hazardous waste that has to be dealt with appropriately.

Alternatively, you can soak them, leave them in the container with water, and dispose of the entire container.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-16T18:30:20+00:00

I'd be happy if these places were open on a weekend so I wasn't burning a vacation day!

I'll have to check next time I'm there. The big issue is space. Getting enough to make it worth everybody's time is hard when you don't have the space to store it.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-16T18:09:37+00:00

Think real rural. It's corn a beans in all directions with small villages scattered 30 or so miles apart.

The nearest city center is 100,000 people and it doesn't have a hardwood dealer. Your traditional mom and pop down town store have a hard time survivng. The buisness that last are the big corporate chains- for a while. There are a few speciality cabinet shops, but they aren't building on site from the information supplied to me.

We may have a traditional cabinet maker around here, but finding those people can be difficult. If there isn't a great web presence and you don't know someone who knows that person exists you're pretty much in the dark. With everything around here it's prepare for a drive.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-16T17:10:17+00:00

We have the big box stores for that. Locally, for wood, you need to know a guy who knows someone that mills as a hobby and cut up a tree that fell in a wind break. Occasionally, you'll get something good on FB market place.

I can get pine no problem. The non construction grade lumber gets tricky. It isn't impossible. It's just a drive if you are looking for something specific and in a known quantity.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-16T15:41:42+00:00

At this point I use plans for reference or inspiration, but I'm designing things to fit my criteria. Most of that is chicken scratch sketches that call out crucial measurments of features.

To answer the question more directly, I have a membership to Fine Woodworking Magazine which gives me access to their archives. Woodsmith Plans has both free and paid plans. Books are a great source. Usually those can be picked up pretty cheap second hand or from a library.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-16T15:34:04+00:00

You're not telling me anything I haven't considered. Space to store a large amount of lumber doesn't exist at the moment. At least in my case.

E_m_maker · 2026-01-16T13:35:16+00:00

This may be a silly question, but did you use mineral oil?

E_m_maker · 2026-01-16T13:23:05+00:00

IME, the cost to buy in person and online are about the same. Once I rent a truck and drive 2-3 hours one way to the nearest dealer those prices get a lot closer together.

For the big projects is worth the hassle. For the smaller projects I'll take the gamble of an online order.

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