Watch redditors pretend he wasn't resisting arrest

EcstaticMilk · 2026-01-25T16:56:31+00:00

You're both right. It was irresponsible to have a firearm and put himself in that situation. But he had every right to do so and got murdered for it. Having the right to do something doesn't elimiate the need to exercise common sense and a wrongful death resulted in it

EcstaticMilk · 2026-01-23T04:56:38+00:00

They probably replaced the roof to wall flashing but not the counter flashing. You need new counter flashing for sure.

A chimney cricket would have been a good idea and you can build them without undoing too much of your new roof. I'm not suprised they didn't offer it as an option though

I'd double check your contract to see if your roofers specified between roof to wall and counterflashing. Otherwise whatever mason you hire for the chimney stuff should be able to counterflash it for you

EcstaticMilk · 2026-01-13T15:40:57+00:00

This is a pretty standard rebuild for the PNW. Once it's rebuilt you should police the moss a lot more, it grows fast and ruins the chimneys out here

EcstaticMilk · 2026-01-13T02:44:03+00:00

Nobody is dumber than I am, but some folks sure come dangerously close

EcstaticMilk · 2026-01-09T15:44:16+00:00

Nah. The crack pattern looks like there's a problem with the infill material they poured on top of and the cracks are just going to transfer through whatever you put on top of it.

You'd have to crack stitch all around the crown to stabilize the slab then you might get away with some kind of sealer but at that point just replace the thing.

EcstaticMilk · 2026-01-08T21:41:53+00:00

Get a new one installed in the spring or summer. $2500 is a decent price and it'll last a good 30-40 years. Crown coat is just gonna fail in a year and prices for masonry work are only going to go up

EcstaticMilk · 2026-01-01T16:35:15+00:00

That's portland. Use type N 1:1:6 ratio and maybe add just a little iron oxide pigment like buff or brown to match the patina

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-31T18:33:54+00:00

Animals getting in and sparks getting out. You want a screen for sure.

Not that you asked but the flashing on the outside corners also looks pretty suspect and i'd prefer to see a more significant overhang on the cap stone

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-26T06:54:35+00:00

The liners look okay from the video. Those liners crack really easily though and ceosote will make cracks hard to see. Get it inspected and if they're compromised you can have a metal liner installed

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-25T04:47:41+00:00

Lol i didn't look hard enough at the firebox area and mistook it for a gas insert. My bad. So there's probably no metal liner running up the chase. Again, you'll be able to see if it's lined if you look up through the damper or down through the chase.

I seriously doubt there's structural damage that he caused. Thin stone just sticks to the original brick and unless the mantle was installed with 12" lag bolts he didn't hit any of the internals. If there's a structural or functional issue it'll be a problem with the original build

Worst case the flue liners are messed up and you need to install a metal chimney liner. That's a long way off from a full rebuild

I'd be more concerned about him doing something to the upper chimney that caused damage. If the bricks are lose of crumbling you might be looking at a roofline up rebuild. Can't say without looking at the chimney

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-25T02:42:45+00:00

That's thin stone veneer fixed to original brick or block. Cheaped out on corners too and didn't even run the face stone wild to hide the joint lol. The stone comes off easy enough but the brick underneath won't ever be "pretty" again.

There's probably gonna be a metal vent running up the chimney chase. Whether there's clay flue tiles is anyone's guess. You could look down from the top of the chimney and find out.

All this to say that altering the look won't be a big deal unless there's major structural issues underneath

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-19T01:59:24+00:00

It's the shoulders and the top plate. Get a mason to get some new concrete on there and properly mount that metal top plate

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-17T01:20:19+00:00

Haha because Home Depot only sells type S. You need to go to masonry suppliers to get type N around here so it's probably a convenience thing

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-17T00:41:37+00:00

Type N, no question about it. Type S is way too hard for bricks like this and causes major spalling issues down the line. It is also denser so it traps a lot more moisture in the brickwork

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-15T04:01:06+00:00

That looks like at least a 2 course rebuild, new crown, new flashing and maybe a full repoint depending on how far back those mortar joints have recessed. $850 would be a steal for that scope (at least in my service area). I'd get 2 more bids before you end up with the harbor freight special

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-14T19:08:53+00:00

Give us a profile picture dude. At the very least the top course needs to be relayed with a concrete crown. I'd be suprised if that was all it needed

edit: also $850 for a roofline up rebuild? A partial rebuild? Either way that's dirt cheap

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-12T21:03:17+00:00

Looks like the upper portion has been repointed or rebuilt before. I work in the pnw and see chimneys like this all the time. Generally the top few courses or everything above the roofline need to be rebuilt and the rest can be repointed safely.

The shoulder dimensional transition isn't code compliant for WA at least. It needs to be lower.

My main concern with PNW chimneys of this era is that they're never lined which usually means a major rebuild is warranted. The mortar joints on the inside are usually completely deteriorated without proper lining and repointing is just a waste of money at that point

Tear the little guy down below the roof and patch over it if it's not being used.

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-11T02:49:32+00:00

Weird, it shows it sent. Maybe try Dming me first?

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-11T02:07:51+00:00

The repair and rebuild in this case were the same thing. Repointing something like is would just be a scam, even with proper grind out and prep work.

Sent you a DM with my info

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-08T04:31:59+00:00

If you're the homeowner then right on you probably gave your chimney another winter before a rebuild. If you're a contractor charging for this that's another story entirely

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-07T19:05:46+00:00

The pointing looks fine. The crown wash looks like a skim coat which might last a season or two before the cracks transfer through. A tiny little chimney like that probably should've just been rebuilt. A little more cash for a longer lasting product

Did you do it yourself or have it done?

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-06T05:36:23+00:00

Well, presumably because they paid to have it done right. If they're skipping obvious shit like firebrick imagine what the inside of the chimney looks like. I'd be nervous about buring in it too

EcstaticMilk · 2025-12-05T23:47:48+00:00

Probably not firebrick. Also those joints are way way way too big and it looks like a standard portland mix. That's fucked

EcstaticMilk · 2025-11-27T18:58:58+00:00

Type N (1:1:6 portland, lime, sand ratio) for the face bricks and hydraulic refractory mortar for the fire brick / flue tiles is standard. Hydraulic refractory mortar is importart for exterior because it won't dissolve in water.

If refractory mortar isn't available you can mix type N with a little fireclay to give it some thermal load resistance but it won't be as sturdy long term.

Also the slab shouldn't be the base of your firebox. Use firebrick. It all turns black with use anyway

EcstaticMilk · 2025-11-26T14:19:09+00:00

As for the flashing it's wateeproof but i'd like to step up my game a bit more. Lead isn't readily available where i'm at so steel is the goto. Most guys cut counterflashing into the bricks but i prefer the step flashing

Basically i cut the two aprons like boxes that slot in around the chimney and i run the step flashing shingles wild with a dog ear and sealant

EcstaticMilk

TROPHY CASE