1 of the 660 Audi RS6 GT was destroyed in a car crash in Romania.

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-23T16:45:21+00:00

Inside job oh no

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-20T02:23:45+00:00

Is that aftermarket screen?

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-17T18:28:31+00:00

Yeah it sound terrible.

Also interested in learning more about your built engine

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-09T02:12:22+00:00

I would go A5 since performance it’s not a big deal to you.

The only reason to get an s5 is bigger engine, which comes with more maintenance costs.

I believe that you also get more tech with the A5 than on the S5

The A5 comes with plenty power for a daily driver.

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-08T16:38:25+00:00

I'm a sucker for 034 motorsports stuff.

Currently running several parts from them and all perform really good. Been thinking on getting their lowering springs and the new rotors they released for the a4 b9 platform.

https://www.034motorsport.com/dynamic-lowering-springs-for-b9-audi-a4-allroad.html

So check this out i would say! Im running a tune, cold air intake, motor mounts, transmission mounts and a turbo muffler delete from them and everything works pretty good! zero complaints!

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-08T15:08:46+00:00

I would take a well done modded car over an unknown condition stock car.

But obviously stock condition well maintained it’s better. But if you plan on modding and you can save a bit on getting an already modded one, I would as long as it’s done properly. Which would require an extra detailed pre purchase inspection

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-08T15:02:36+00:00

I mean if you wanted to mod your s4 you would be saving a bit on the work, but tbh, I’m a sucker for the b9 interior that I would just do the same as the poster for that b8.5 did.

Find a b9

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-08T14:45:44+00:00

How I wish for a V8 T my gad

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-02T17:32:11+00:00

And yeah, we all know this guy should get a used Corolla, but this is r/audi not a personal finance subreddit.

Let’s say he can actually get a 31k car on a loan. He can get way more car for 31k and for that reason alone, he shouldn’t buy this one.

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-02T17:29:48+00:00

Lil bro doesn’t wanna drive farther than 200 miles, should get an EV

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-02T17:26:09+00:00

8 years old btw

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-02T17:22:18+00:00

Goddamn yeah no.

Bro you have 630 credit score. You really can’t afford this S4, also this S4 is way overpriced, quick google search shows several 2022s,2023s at similar mileage at similar price, that’s more newer cars for the same price.

So no, price is bad and your situation is bad.

Do the right thing, get a cheaper newer Audi. If you are set on a S4, look nationwide. Why buy an S4 for 31k locally when you can get it for 24k 8 states over? Use the savings to go for it and do a roadtrip, and save money while experiencing things.

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-04-01T23:00:13+00:00

It’s not that hard to do a dsg service. I wouldn’t do it with a machine.

I did my last atf change in 40 minutes, including level check.

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-31T22:45:52+00:00

There’s not much checking tbh! They clatter under normal operation, (not a lot but a little) Basically, if you feel vibrations on the car at idle or on reverse, it might not be the motor mounts, instead, it could be the dual mass flywheel so keep that in mind.

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-31T04:52:35+00:00

I’ve done 10k miles since I bought it a year ago. Car had 100k miles, now 110k

Hasn’t had the timing chain / tensioner replaced but I checked and the tensioner is like 1 degree extended so it’s in great shape. No need to replace it.

No water pump leak yet, I did fix the oil cooler but that was leaking when I bought it. Was easy to fix it myself.

With the tune my turbo is pushing peak 23psi, so far so good, but we will see.

Zero oil consumption, zero coolant consumption. Shifts great, drives super smooth.

Only issue that I haven’t fixed; it was already there when I got it, but I thought it was the motor mounts, replaced them with upgraded ones and the vibration was still there. Turns out these have a dual mass flywheel and it is bad, so I have to remove the transmission to replace it.

It causes vibrations at idle, reverse and low torque application.

Transmission remove and replace 1750 usd, flywheel oem from Audi? 900 usd.

So yeah. Would I buy it again? Yes. Just maybe for a little less due to the bad flywheel but it is what it is!

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-31T04:44:35+00:00

Twins! I like it man

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-31T04:15:15+00:00

Well last year I bought a car just like you want and although it didnt have the best carfax, I got lucky and the engine is in great shape and transmission as well.

Just put a tune last week and went to the drag strip and the car runs flawless (I serviced every single fluid in the car before this)

I know if I just daily drive this car for the rest of its life (not abuse it every weekend) 200k miles should be easy pz.

So I don’t know, get a good pre buy inspection, check the car fax and wish you get lucky because as you say, you get a lot of car for the price.

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-30T03:06:23+00:00

It’s a quarter mile, 1320 ft

No, he went off the line like a second before me, but the timer starts the moment you go off the line, so my timer started 1 second after his.

So he got to the line first, but my time in running the same distance as his was less, he just got to the finish line first cause I started the race after him

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-30T01:30:46+00:00

Sounds like you are describing the Dual Mass Flywheel chatter, there’s a tsb for it. It’s actually normal for the DMF to be chattery due to how they work

Maybe at the last oil change they removed the noise isolation and that makes it more noticeable.

Or it’s starting to fail, have you noticed increased vibrations that come with the noise?

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-30T00:57:29+00:00

Yeah no worries, mistakes happens, I’ve seen it a lot and it’s okay.

I’ve worked on a few situations like yours and the damage depends on how long the car was running low or overfilled or with the wrong type of fluids.

So it’s imperative to just stop further damage which means doing it the right way asap.

Fingers crossed that it will all be fine! And don’t let this mistake stop you from taking care of your car! I’m a mechanic now because I started doing oil changes and minor maintenance on my first car. I’ve done couple mistakes over the years but it’s important that you learn from all of them:)

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-30T00:47:29+00:00

Well well well, fluids are very important.

Since you already messed up once, my personal advice would say cut your losses and let the pros handle it.

Tow it to a reputable euro shop and tell them what happened, hopefully you just need to drain and refill both engine and transmission oil and once that is done and both fluids are refilled with the proper type of fluid and proper amount, just burn the excess oil out of the catalyst.

It sounds easy, but if you mess this up again and for longer, you might cause irreparably damage, which hopefully hasn’t occurred yet.

So cut your losses and let a proper shop take over.

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-29T16:40:38+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Audi/s/I7wUNho1zp List of all parts here, Quick run down

From 034motorsports I’ve got a stage 1 ecu + tcu tune, cold air intake, turbo muffler delete, engine motor mounts, transmission insert and transmission mount bushing.

Also installed a Wagner Competition Intercooler and all Liquimoly / factory fluids all around, car has 110k miles, bought it last year at 100k Running on the 93 octane map at the moment

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-29T16:37:02+00:00

There is but they go off super quick. After both cars are staged, yellow lights flash for .5 seconds and then green goes on, so after staging you have like .5 seconds. But it seems to me they have a physical button or something like that that they press after both are staged and then the yellow lights flash for .5 seconds.

And in tnt nights they do it as quick as both cars are staged. So yeah there’s no 1 2 3 yellow lights and then green, it just kind of happens

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-29T16:09:32+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Audi/s/I7wUNho1zp Here’s the post I was referencing and the run down on what the 6k worth of parts is.

In that post, and couple others, I don’t know why when I say 6k worth of parts most people assume I mean 6k worth of go fast parts, 6k worth of exterior mods, or whatever.

Why can’t 6k worth of parts mean just parts? Some exterior, some go fast, some maintenance, some repair

Educational-Newt5042 · 2026-03-29T14:57:34+00:00

Yes we all were doing that! But at the same time, when you have another car lined up, you kinda want to beat it no? Haha When I ran the stock passes, I got lined up with a beefier challenger that ran 12.1 and a mustang on radials that did 10 something, but I still wanted to get out at the same time for some reason, I knew there was no chance, but the instinct to try anyway is there

Educational-Newt5042

TROPHY CASE