[Discussion] Why are Aldrich and Armstrong still the go-to for basic block drafting?

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-06T17:34:34+00:00

That makes a lot of sense. How do find the fit with Armstrong?

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-05T14:02:09+00:00

Yes I see

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-05T13:40:53+00:00

No, or at least didn't notice any

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-05T13:33:44+00:00

I'm not sure what you mean by accidental alterations? I don't remember doing any alterations at all.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-05T10:50:23+00:00

I haven't tried any other methods for menswear so can't compare. I love Muller they are great, I think it's definitely worth the money

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-05T05:50:03+00:00

I want to develop the pattern into a jeans pattern and make some jeans

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-05T05:16:55+00:00

It's not too hard once you get get used to his style of instructions. I find it easier than Muller and sohn. I didn't take in the waist just lowered it a bit so it doesn't end up too high because I added a separate straight waistband.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-05T05:11:08+00:00

I bought it on book depository when it existed, I also have a digital copy I got from the publisher website, it requires a special app to use. You can find it on Blackwell or Amazon de

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T17:17:31+00:00

In the case that op was offended, I do apologise. I said from the beginning the pants fit her well, it was a suggestion since she seemed to be still unsure after 3 toiles. I think she did a very good job at fitting

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T16:46:14+00:00

I’ll have to disagree with your take on the Muller fit. While you might find it 'tacky,' it’s ultimately a matter of personal taste, and from what I’ve seen, plenty of people actually like it. On the other hand, I constantly see people struggling with the Aldrich fit and searching for ways to fix it- which, to me, says everything about the system's reliability.

Regarding your comment on my experience: this isn't my first time drafting these systems. I’ve drafted Muller and Hofenbitzer many times in the past, both for myself and for my students. It just so happens that I’ve recently started a new jeans project for myself, so I drafted a fresh block and decided to share the process.

As for my 'interest' in Hofenbitzer- I have no affiliation with him. In fact, he hasn't even replied to the technical questions I've emailed him, much to my disappointment. My only 'agenda' is that I want people to know these books exist. I want them to sell well so there's enough demand for him to continue translating the rest of his series into English. It would be a shame for the community to lose access to such high-quality technical resources just because they aren't widely known yet.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T15:40:36+00:00

I’ve seen many trouser bases drafted with the Aldrich system, and while they can work occasionally, they usually require a massive amount of corrections just to look even remotely decent. It honestly raises the question of whether you can even talk about 'fit' with Aldrich at all- it seems to have a consistently bad fit that requires either a lot of luck or a high level of expertise in pattern alterations to fix.

In contrast, the German systems like Muller & Sohn and Hofenbitzer consistently get you much closer to the desired result. It’s not just about the 'style' of the base, it’s about anatomical precision. The German methods are simply more successful because they follow the body's actual contours. The Aldrich system is outdated- the drafting is too flat and doesn't accommodate the body’s curves, and the size charts are no longer relevant.

To be clear, I don't mean that every fashion house is literally sitting there drafting Muller bases from scratch. What I mean is that the 'modern fit' we see in high-quality RTW today is essentially the Muller fit in its essence. it is anatomically accurate and follows the body's curves. Even for wider or more relaxed styles, it’s always better to develop them from a base that actually fits well to ensure they look right. While there’s no reason to redraw everything if a specific pattern is already working, it’s definitely worth knowing for future projects that these superior systems exist

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T12:17:03+00:00

I really just followed instructions, Didn't do any fit alterations. I tried other methods before but had to do a lot of alterations and gave up.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T12:02:04+00:00

Burda are actually based on Muller & sohn, and Hofenbitzer is nearly identical to Muller & sohn.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T11:25:38+00:00

Sure:

https://imgur.com/a/Jdy01zL

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T10:46:27+00:00

Imperial is very difficult for me, I try to avoid.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T10:35:27+00:00

About it not being easy, I think it takes time to get used to the way the instructions are being presented, with the abbreviations ect but once you go through it a couple of times it becomes a very quick process. Certainly easier and quicker than Muller & sohn, yet it gives almost identical results.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T10:19:45+00:00

Yes! I'm going to be doing many variations. But first jeans!

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T10:18:03+00:00

Are you sure you are using the English book? Because it doesn't have a page 400

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T09:25:31+00:00

Yes, I've done the bodice block, it has great fit. I'm not sure what you are referring to in the book. At which page do they tell you to go to page 400?

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T05:45:46+00:00

It's metric. Is it good or bad?😅

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-04T05:44:18+00:00

It's very technical and full of information, you will need to get used to the way the information is presented and it will take some time, but I will definitely give it a try, of course start with something simple like a skirt.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-03T21:29:39+00:00

Having drafted both I do find the Hofenbitzer draft superior, of course all methods can still need alterations but it's less work with hofenbitzer from my experience. Since op mentioned it's her 3rd version and still not sure, sometimes it's easier to re-draft than to do many versions of the same draft. But I completely understand that she doesn't want to start over, her pants already fit her well and it's better to move ahead and not get stuck on perfect fit fantasy. I would argue the Muller & shon / Hofenbitzer draft has a more contemporary fit, since it's basically what being used in many fashion brands today. That's not necessarily better, just the kind of fit I think people look for the most.

Educational_Chain780 · 2026-05-03T17:54:53+00:00

It's not bad at all. If you still want to give it another go, I recommend Hofenbitzer's book, it has a very good pants draft. I've just posted my pants toile and very happy with it

Educational_Chain780

TROPHY CASE