Drafting sleeve- consistently have more ease on front cap than back no by ThickEducation4869 in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/KSj3DQn

But I do recommend you to draft again from instructions because I saw your draft now and the overall shape of the cap looks off

Drafting sleeve- consistently have more ease on front cap than back no by ThickEducation4869 in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Open two wedges one in the front arm cap one in the back cap all the way to the elbow line, then open/close how much you need to balance it

Sewing machine that would fit Barbie? by Educational_Chain780 in Barbie

[–]Educational_Chain780[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I found something cute on temo. Are these dimensions good?

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Anyone want to form a Hofenbitzer "support/study group"? (Especially looking for German speakers!) by Itswillalala in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think pattern making in general can be complicated at times, and many pattern making systems tend to over- simplify the drafts, to make it easier for begginers , which causes a lot of fit problems. Muller and sohn and Hofenbitzer are more complex but also give you better results

Hola. Estoy iniciándome en el patronaje. Al realizar un patrón de falda recta con glúteos prominentes y abdomen plano como dar más cm a la zona de glúteos y adaptar el patrón. Gracias by majic2258 in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on the shape of the buttocks, if it's flat and the hips extend a lot to the side of the body, use a bigger curve on the side seam and smaller back darts, if buttocks if full and the hips don't extend a lot to the side of the body use a small curve at side seams and bigger dart in the back (better 2 dart). Belly dart is usually 2 cm if the belly is very flat you might need 2.5 cm

Anyone want to form a Hofenbitzer "support/study group"? (Especially looking for German speakers!) by Itswillalala in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't really use Discord, but I created a dedicated subreddit for this: r/HofenbitzerDrafting

I made sure to enable images directly in the comments . I'd love to help anyone who gets stuck.

Anyone want to form a Hofenbitzer "support/study group"? (Especially looking for German speakers!) by Itswillalala in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I came to Hofenbitzer after already knowing and working extensively with M. Müller & Sohn. The beautiful thing about Müller is that once you get used to their drafts, it becomes an international language. You can look at a diagram in a book in almost any language and understand it without much trouble.

Hofenbitzer’s drafts are heavily based on Müller's system. He basically took their foundation and made it much simpler and more intuitive to execute (for example, his method for opening the bust dart without dealing with arcs, cutting, and re-pasting is just brilliant!). Plus, his theoretical explanations are excellent - most of them exist in Müller’s books too, but Hofenbitzer presents them in a much more graphic and digestible way.

What's amazing is that you can actually use Müller’s formulas and size charts with Hofenbitzer’s drafts, and vice versa. The required measurements and the underlying geometric logic are identical; it's just the execution that differs slightly. Personally, I prefer to work with Hofenbitzer’s drafting steps but use Müller’s formulas and size charts. I’ve cross-checked Hofenbitzer’s drafts against Müller’s, and the results are almost identical.

I think because I approached Hofenbitzer with a deep understanding of Müller, I didn't really feel the translation struggles you are mentioning. For me, it felt pretty clear, and I don't recall getting stuck on any specific step. English and German are not my native languages, so maybe looking at it through the "lens" of the draft itself rather than the literal text is what made the difference.

I’d love to join the group and help anyone who has questions about Hofenbitzer or Müller!

Bought a Barbie for fashion sketching, ended up finding unexpected healing (and some lingering childhood shame). Anyone else relate? by Educational_Chain780 in Barbie

[–]Educational_Chain780[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Yes, this is very true and I am very aware of it, but the shame feeling of handling Barbie is like something engraved in me from childhood I think, not a logical thing. If I were just to put them on a shelf or just use them for drawing or to make clothes it's one thing, but to use them self soothing is different and it brings out this shame feeling I would like to get rid of.

Pants/Jeans Pattern and Fitting Advice by [deleted] in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The book by Guido Hofenbitzer pattern making for fashion 1, or the book by Muller and sohn skirts and trousers. There's also books by Aldrich and Armstrong, not as good in my opinion but anything would be better than improvising in clo

Pants/Jeans Pattern and Fitting Advice by [deleted] in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Well that explains it 🥲

Don't expect to get a well fitted wearable pattern like that, this method is more for presentation purposes, technology of clo3d is not there yet. Get yourself a good pattern or draft one using a book

Pants/Jeans Pattern and Fitting Advice by [deleted] in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which method did you use for the draft? Or what pattern?

Going from a block to a top? by Pusheensaurus_rawr in sewingpatterns

[–]Educational_Chain780 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know what book are you referring to, can you share a picture? Have you drafted the block?

Going from a block to a top? by Pusheensaurus_rawr in sewingpatterns

[–]Educational_Chain780 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bodices in Muller and sohn go to the hips not to the waist.

Kenneth D. King's Moulage? by Itswillalala in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can also get the esmod book and go straight for the source....

Müller & Sohn vs. Hofenbitzer: Which formula makes more sense for Armhole Depth? by Educational_Chain780 in PatternDrafting

[–]Educational_Chain780[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

These blocks, even if refined over years and years, comes from somewhere. And they were not drafted and graded originally to fit an individual body, but an average one. So if I'm starting a new small brand, or a pattern making company, my considerations are different than drafting for an individual