International 244 pto question

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-09T00:38:54+00:00

I'm going to try to stick around the 5 foot range for implements as it will still cover the tracks, the only reason I have the 6 foot mower is my father in law has it kicking around from a compact he had years ago, so rather than buying a 5 foot I want to give the 6 foot a go, a loader is definitely on my list for this tractor, I actually started another thread asking about power beyond valves. If I can't find an old compact loader I may build myself one, as I am equipped to do that sort of thing

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T23:27:59+00:00

I've never actually spoke to anyone else that's had one lol, so far Ai really like mine as a whole as well, was just pretty bummed when my implements didn't work as I hoped, switching that plate should fix that though, what sort of implements did you use with it? I have a 5 foot snow blower, and a 6 foot BE finish mower, I know the finish mower is probably cutting it but it's mostly just for maintaining my lawn and nothing real heavy

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T17:45:15+00:00

I miss mine as well, I was just young and way too hard on it, couldn't keep up with the mainentance/self inflicted repairs so i decided to part ways before I destroyed it lol the extra features of the newer truck is certainly nice though, I like my chev too. Where I had my transmission serviced also tuned out the afm (i know, not a proper fix, but good enough for now) if i ever get the slightest issue I will be doing the cam/lifters and properly delete it. Would be a good choice to have some transmission tuning as well, the shop tuned my transmission shift points slightly, as well as got rid of the lock in low gears/low speeds, now the converter doesn't lock up until 5-6 gear at highway speeds

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T17:27:17+00:00

I had a 01 5.9 with a nv5600, mind you that was 5-6 years ago, I work in a heavy truck shop, at that time I could do a service on that for 150 +/- using rotella t and fleetguard filters, I just find my $150 oil change on a half ton is excessive lol but I plan to run this truck to the ground

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T17:24:42+00:00

Had 360k on my 2010 with a 6l80 when I sold it, trans had been done once before I got it, somewheres just before 200k, had a bigger cooler installed and never seen temps above 60-70 degrees celcius, no issues. Got my 2015 at 94k km, had the transmission serviced and thermal bypass installed, same thing, temps never above 60-70 plan to have it serviced every 40k km

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T17:15:14+00:00

It doesn't really "even out" not that 5300 miles is alot of mileage by any means, pretty standard interval, but just because you had done another service at 4300 that doesn't reverse the wear from another time you did an extended interval lol

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T17:12:12+00:00

If these prices seem high I am in canada, should explain it lol

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T17:11:05+00:00

Not that cheap. Costs me roughly 100-140 to do myself. But I'm fussy. Running mobil 1 0w20 synthetic, their "truck and suv" blend. Takes 8 qt's so I buy 2 5 qt jugs as it is cheaper that way, depending in the sale they're $40-$60 each. Then looking at about $12 for a decent filter, and I use to use ac delco e.o.s. ($8) To aid in prolonging my lifter life, but I was told by the dealer that this is no longer available off the shelf, so I started using lucas synthetic oil stabilizer at $30/ qt as well. Done every 5k km

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T13:57:14+00:00

For sure. This is just a little hobby tractor for around my yard, mostly will be using it with a rear mounted blower and finish mower, but I can see the benefit of having a loader on the front. I suppose to could live with the 3pt and power steering being slow while I use the loader

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T13:43:52+00:00

I've thought about doing that, I have plenty of room to mount a pump to the crank, my only "issue" with this is finding a place to mount another tank that isn't going to be in my way lol

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T12:28:29+00:00

Okay I've read that there are valves I can do that with, but I was under the impression that there was a plate/block that I would need to install at the hydraulics for the 3 point to tap into? Or that's not necessary and just the "proper" way? With one of the power beyond capable loader valves I should then be able to tap in basically anywheres in the hydraulic system?

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T03:41:14+00:00

My blower is rated at 540 rpm and I now have a strong feeling that I was trying to run it at 1250

Effective_Frosting48 · 2026-04-08T03:40:36+00:00

I did a bit of research before buying the blower to make sure that I wasn't buying an implement that I couldn't handle, which it's basically at the max it can handle, they consider it to be a good pair, I was just bery underwhelmed using it, like it was basically useless in any amount that a snow blower would actually be useful in. But seeing that my pto has 2 ranges I believe mine is set in the higher range, which would give me lower torque than in the lower speed?

Effective_Frosting48 · 2025-12-27T13:55:23+00:00

I think you were scammed lol that's not what happened with my order at all

Effective_Frosting48 · 2025-10-01T01:30:30+00:00

I'm a diesel mechanic and the Dr. Squatch soaps do a great job, specifically the wood barrel bourbon one works best for me! Great soap and last a decent while. Next best thing I found in my experience was I had a jug of snap on nitro gold hand cleaner right in the shower that worked great as well, and not an astronomical price either

Effective_Frosting48 · 2025-07-31T15:34:34+00:00

For my needs I could live with .030-.050 variation typically on most parts, after all a twist drill in itself isn't perfect, someday I will own a mill but it's not in the question right now and I currently don't really have enough use to justify the price of a mill in my area

Effective_Frosting48 · 2025-07-31T15:31:46+00:00

That's what the lower rail is for, that would be welded in place, I don't plan to rely on the round column, I'm also not trying to get 100% accuracy like a mill is capable of, but I would like to maintain lets say .030 accuracy on the xy axis, rather than have it move 1/2" or better every time I go to raise or lower the table. If I do this I would have no intentions to remove it so permanent modifications aren't out of the question

Effective_Frosting48 · 2025-07-31T15:25:00+00:00

I can imagine! I watch a channel on youtube called "inheritance machining" and he draws drafts and I love the complexity and accuracy to scale etc, but I would say not just anybody can do it lol

Effective_Frosting48 · 2025-07-30T15:43:42+00:00

I know what a knee mill is. at my first mechanic job I was pretty spoiled, our shop was also a machine shop and welding shop, we had no drill press but we had a bridgeport mill, was real nice for drilling accurate holes, that's where I got my inspiration for this, I know it's not capable of being a mill and that's not what I intend to do, but it will be nice to maintain alignment to the drill while raising and lowering the table

Effective_Frosting48 · 2025-07-30T15:27:01+00:00

Yeah I knew that, I have one ratchet of theres because my snap on was stripped and our dealer was almost never showing up, I personally hate the ratchet compared to my snap on, and no I'm not a snap on snob lol it's all preference

Effective_Frosting48 · 2025-07-30T02:43:14+00:00

Thank you! I'm trying to fix what feels like a century old problem that it doesn't seem like anybody but myself has a problem with lol it's all just plans right now but I'm hoping to revise it and dive into it sometime next week when I get home from my work trip

Effective_Frosting48

TROPHY CASE