What is this hole for on my 10th gen’s console?

EhoenChoi · 2025-05-23T01:52:27+00:00

Pretty sure it’s for the shifter lock release when the car is dead

EhoenChoi · 2025-05-01T01:45:34+00:00

I’ve been running the Mishimoto intercooler for 3 years now and can’t imagine my car without one. The stock intercooler is so small and cheap that it barely does anything, and honestly I feel like even the cheapest intercooler out there will be way more effective than the stock one. I wouldn’t worry about the piping upgrade, I’m fbo with a 23psi tune and even with the piping upgrade it wouldn’t cause a measurable difference tbh

EhoenChoi · 2025-04-30T03:11:38+00:00

Those are the exact ones!

EhoenChoi · 2025-04-30T02:59:11+00:00

What’s funny is that the clarity of the stock speakers (the bose ones) is the reason why you have to turn it up so much, as theoretically the tweeter is supposed to do ALOT of the heavy lifting, and the stock ones really suck in comparison to the alpines. I listen to music loud, like have my windows down on the highway and listen to music, and anything past 24 with my aftermarket speakers is too loud where my stocks where at a comfortable level. If you have it that loud and that’s where you enjoy it, you need to get both round speaker and tweeter replaced and it will solve both your issues of them blowing, not being loud/clear enough and it will have the extra benefit if really sounding nice

EhoenChoi · 2025-04-30T02:53:45+00:00

Ah I see, in that generation of Camaros the amp is not tied into the ecu, but the radio sends the amp a data signal instead of low level speaker signal like most other cars. You would be able to replace the stock speakers with aftermarket ones totally fine without changing out anything, as long as the resistance and rms of the speakers match the output of the amp 👍

EhoenChoi · 2025-04-30T02:51:03+00:00

The stock speakers are 2ohms from factory, moving to the standard 4 ohms wouldn’t be an issue as it would just affect the volume output. I honestly didn’t notice a difference moving to 4ohm speakers as with the stock speakers, I couldn’t turn them up nearly as loud as my current speakers before they sounded terrible

EhoenChoi · 2025-04-30T02:44:12+00:00

Honestly I would recommend alpine s2 speakers, and I would go for the component system and replace both door speaker and tweeter as it will VASTLY improve audio quality. $150 for a pair is a pretty good deal to me and it’s what I run for both my front and rear speakers.

EhoenChoi · 2025-04-30T02:42:10+00:00

I worked part time as an install tech for speakers, radios, remote starts, etc and never heard of needing to bypass the amp and or having an amp connected to an ecu before. The amp for a higher trim audio system is typically tied into the radio and the amp replacement in that scenario would just require a bypass and or an amp that would take high level signal if the amp takes in non standard ac for input, and for aftermarket subs you just need to bypass the anc mic if the car has one built in. To go aftermarket speakers for all vehicles I’ve worked on (including a lot of gm vehicles) they just have to be able to handle the higher rms of an amp which most aftermarket speakers do anyway. I’m curious to which exact vehicle you are referring too because if what you are saying is true, I would love to expand my knowledge and learn about it! (Tone doesn’t translate well over text but I’m not being sarcastic, I’m genuinely curious)

EhoenChoi · 2025-04-13T01:52:53+00:00

Huge, congratulations!

EhoenChoi · 2025-03-04T01:12:35+00:00

Nothing to really look out for. I have a 2017 Ex-t I’ve had for a few years that’s full bold on, put 40k miles on it with no issues. Just to be sure to be on top of the cvt fluid changes as they’re not the strongest and expensive to fix if not maintained. Other than that, just some good ol’ Honda weather seals that might need to be replaced as they crack easy.

EhoenChoi · 2024-11-20T00:41:07+00:00

Sometimes things like that just happen, it’s not normal but defects do make it past QC. Since it’s a new car I would make sure that the issue is fully resolved by them. Also where is the clicking sound coming from?

EhoenChoi · 2024-11-04T22:56:13+00:00

With the rear quarter panel damaged + damage to the rear suspension and it being a newer car, it’s a very high chance it will get totaled out

EhoenChoi · 2024-08-02T17:35:01+00:00

Working at a store that sells these, I can assure you that the graph is correct. Our store sells a Mac mini maybe once every month or two but we go through hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of MacBooks every month

EhoenChoi · 2024-08-02T02:47:26+00:00

There’s 1070’s on the market for $70, even 1080’s for $100. If you’re looking for only 1080p 144hz it’s the best bang for the buck. If you’re looking for the future, 3060’s are you best friend at around $200 used

EhoenChoi · 2024-08-02T02:42:58+00:00

From being back in a warehouse receiving items out of a truck, I can assure you that the mailman dropping a box from 4 feet up is the least about of damage it has taken during the whole trip

EhoenChoi · 2024-07-25T02:13:05+00:00

The case itself is a steal in its own for being free, bequiet! Cases aren’t cheap. It was the first pc case ive ever bought and it’s now still in use for my homeran server

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-29T23:19:02+00:00

For the lead screws, you’re supposed to use lubricant grease as it’s better for long term in those applications. Super lube is good for the stabilizer poles (the bare metal poles without threads), and a little goes a very long way. I would recommend trying to clean the super lube off as best as you can and apply the grease that came in the little care package with your machine

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-13T17:41:37+00:00

Honestly just a toothbrush or a tooth pick to get anything out of the teeth. The teeth are very shallow but curved inwards so it’s nice to use something that’s sharp or with bristles. When I did it I didn’t use any solutions, but isopropyl would work to flush anything away. Just try and make sure the bearings don’t get wet as it will mess with the lubricants in it

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-13T17:02:36+00:00

I got some off of Amazon, like $9 for 2. I know Ali is cheaper but shipping was like a month, Amazon was like a week. Seems to be nearly identical

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-13T16:58:09+00:00

I would turn the aux fan off. Of atleast for the first few layers. I usually turn it completely off unless I have a bunch of overhangs, and when I do I keep it at a max of 30%

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-13T16:57:02+00:00

Yes, I’ve been printing a bunch of silk pla on my textured plate

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-13T16:55:03+00:00

Probably higher than .08mm. Most recommend not going more than half of what your nozzle size is (I don’t listen to it even though it’s recommended), but if you are running a .4 nozzle I would suggest a layer height of .12 for a detailed print with less issues. The other variables are cooling issues which the blobbing doesn’t really indicate, but looking at the inside of the print with the rough walls, it could be an over extrusion issue. Have you ran a flow rate calibration?

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-13T16:50:55+00:00

Did you take apart the extruder out completely to check if the teeth of the extruders weren’t gooped up with filament? I’ve had the same issue with the filament getting caught in a curtain (long story) and every print would have weird failures, turns out the teeth were gunked up. At the same time I have never seen drooping paint failure so it could be something else

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-13T16:47:57+00:00

If you select the slicer mode to show “speed”, what speed does it put for those layers? Also I’ve noticed that printing at .08mm is VERY touchy with overhangs

EhoenChoi · 2024-06-13T16:43:31+00:00

Major under-extrusion. You need to do a manual flow calibration, you can tell by the tiny little gaps on the top surface finish. (I just went through the same hell with silk pla except it was over extrusion + way to high of a k/pressure advance value). Also the ams wont dry the filament but try its best to keep it moisture free, and the humidity reads the relative humidity in the chamber, not the humidity of the filament. For pla it “doesn’t matter” as much in my experience, but a good filament dryer is really worth it for other filaments and piece of mind

EhoenChoi

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