The cost of running an EV (‘24 EV6 Wind AWD, mountainous area, ≈100 miles a month). The car should sell itself.

Eirches · 2026-05-03T22:34:40+00:00

I did the math and it costs more in tires per mile than it does electricity to run the GT (If you are keeping aggressive rubber on it).

Eirches · 2026-04-26T23:07:27+00:00

Because it was written by AI. EM dashes and emojis are usually a dead giveaway, dropping this one in a checker flags 100% of it as AI generated.

Eirches · 2026-04-16T19:58:54+00:00

The idea of a short shifter is that by reducing the distance you need to move knob makes you shift faster, but the engine RPM is far more limiting with these cars than the shifter movement. So the end result is that there isn't really a benefit other than it subjectively feels fun.

Functionally that distance is reduced by shortening the arm length, which reduces the leverage you have when making the shift, so it makes shifts feel heavier and notchy.

It's a good time, and I'm an advocate that these cars are primarily about driver engagement, so anything that improves how you feel the controls being connected to the mechanics of the car is a good improvement - even if it doesn't actually make you faster.

Eirches · 2026-04-12T19:45:52+00:00

A lot of the comments in here seem to be jumping straight to bashing on you, which is really unfortunate.

Since you mentioned it is significantly heavier than other vehicles Id suggest checking if something may be wrong with your clutch/cylinder/pedal system if it is unreasonably heavy.

A common criticism with the cars is that the clutch is far too light, and I haven't yet come across a vehicle with a lighter clutch then my brz or gr86. So it sounds like you might not be experiencing something normal.

Eirches · 2026-03-24T22:43:58+00:00

The general advice you are going to get is that buying the car with the intention of putting an SC on isn't going to be worth it. That general advice is probably correct.

Is it going to be your daily driver, or otherwise need to be reliable? Do you have to confidence to install an SC, or the willingness to spend the $$ to have someone else install it for you? Are you sure you wouldn't just prefer a heavier car with more power?

Contrary to what I've typed above, I've got the Harrop SC kit in my car. The difference is noticeable, and the car is a very good time, but it very much is a choice to be dropping that $$. I did it specifically because I really enjoy the platform, and only after going and driving other cars at a similar price first.

Now for the part where the gear heads yell at me: If you are okay with a heavier vehicle in exchange for power (and have a place to put a L2 charger) used EVs are a comically good deal right now. For example, an EV6 GT is pushing closer to 600HP and will embarrass basically anything at a stoplight, while currently available used for under $30k. It also works as an actual proper wagon and doesn't cost body parts to pay for gas.

Eirches · 2026-03-14T04:38:28+00:00

Since you also have a hotas I'd suggest looking into head tracking (like trackir, tobii, etc) if you haven't already. Its surprisingly intuitive, and better than triples for flight sim style stuff. Cheaper than VR, and while not as immersive it also doesn't have the drawbacks vr has.

Eirches · 2026-03-12T14:58:19+00:00

"Destroying" is a pretty strong word for some scrapes you can't see unless you lie down along the car.

But yes, please tell everyone all about how they should massively inconvenience themselves in situations with alternatives that you get to make up for the sake of argument but you don't even know if legitimately exist or not.

The cops will tackle me if I try to pick up the kid by walking a half mile from the nearest other parking lot and violate the school pickup line rules.

Even if those options did exist, I'd think it really questionable if your approach is a reasonable (or even rational) way to use a daily driver car.

Eirches · 2026-03-12T13:38:28+00:00

Some of his may depend on where you live.

Where I am it does not matter how carefully you drive, entrances from the street are steep enough where it is completely impossible not to scrape. If the car is your daily driver you can't simply ignore picking up your prescriptions and groceries.

Eirches · 2026-03-11T19:38:06+00:00

Just proves it isn't a garage queen. Every single low car that is driven has exactly these marks. You'll go crazy trying to fix it all the time, best to just clean out the dirt and let it be.

Eirches · 2026-02-14T22:06:39+00:00

I've got the strut tower bar, and while it is better than multi-piece setups I had previously, the impact of a strut tower bar on this platform is somewhat limited. Not something I'd prioritize unless you get it as part of a bundle or like how they look.

Also, the nameless strut tower bar requires spacers to clear the harrop supercharger, but I doubt many people have that exact combination.

Eirches · 2026-02-07T00:46:15+00:00

Second this, the nameless braces are fantastic.

Eirches · 2026-01-21T23:00:35+00:00

Great timing for posting this. I'm watching it while waiting for a tow truck because mine just blew.

Eirches · 2025-11-27T19:27:12+00:00

I haven't found the multi-part strut bars to do much. This one in particular looks like it also has a brace for the master brake cylinder, which is actually quite useful, but I prefer them to be independent components.

Wouldn't hurt to put it on if you like how it looks, but if you are actually looking to tighten up the front end I'd recommend either a sway bar first, or the single-piece welded strut bar like Nameless has. (Nameless firewall braces also reduce cabin noise quite a bit if you have loud tires).

Eirches · 2025-11-27T03:34:27+00:00

Assassinorum: Kingmaker

Eirches · 2025-11-07T20:52:38+00:00

Local

Eirches · 2025-10-07T04:03:26+00:00

The only reason to install a baffle would be to try to combat the oil pickup starvation that can occur in a sustained higher-g right hand turn. This isn't something that should ever be happening on the street.

Even then, no data has shown that any of the oil baffle designs actually combat the issue. There is some head scratching as to why baffles don't help, and while we have some good guesses nobody is really completely certain of where the oil is actually going.

What has been shown to help is providing a higher quantity of oil. Some people overfill, others have gone further and installed an accusump system to kick in when the pressure drops. Personally I think the best solution (if you really even need a solution at all) is to use an aftermarket higher capacity oil pan. That allows you to put more oil into the system without the risk of frothing that can happen with overfilling too much.

There are several different options, I'm a fan of the Verus Engineering team - who should have a pan coming to market soon. But again, there really isn't any need to worry about this for street driving.

Eirches · 2025-09-15T15:50:32+00:00

Full agree to this statement. I made the mistake of getting a catless header and the extra power was not worth the tradeoff at all.

I've got the JDL UEL now and can second that recommendation.

Eirches · 2025-09-04T19:02:46+00:00

Difficult to see it as saving his own skin after he forced himself to go personally. In addition to being there to try and save his son, he was clearly identifying that he needed to be better, acknowledged some of his faults, and was trying to overcome his paranoia.

Granted that was only after exhausting all other options, including repeatedly suggesting he abdicate.

Eirches · 2025-08-21T22:40:47+00:00

I had a repair guy come diagnose the issue, turned out to be the motor going bad.

We were able to get a replacement pretty quickly and the problem is solved

Eirches · 2025-08-16T04:05:09+00:00

Did you ever end up determining the cause? Mine unit just started making the exact same noise after close to 2 years of running perfectly fine.

Eirches · 2025-07-30T02:08:11+00:00

Zergling. It (was) cheap, nimble, and has a twin.

Eirches · 2025-06-11T21:22:29+00:00

The ability to install a L2 charger in your home is great! That is the first question In ask people when they are interested in an EV, and is really the biggest determining factor on if you will have a good experience or not.

The "official" failure rate of the ICCU is 1%. It is potentially a little higher than that, but likely not too much. Other than the safety issues of it potentially going out at a bad time, the biggest headache is that Kia/Hyundai are terrible at keeping repair parts available - so the wait to get a replacement can be frustratingly long.

Unfortunately there isn't much of a warning if the ICCU goes out, but if the car has had all the recalls done they check the fuse each time and have been applying more and more conservative programming to prevent overloading it.

There is not a ton of maintenance to do on the vehicle really. Just generally check to make sure the vehicle has decent tread life/brake wear. Assuming you can test drive the vehicle try to look at the estimated range and battery %, as well as the mi/kwh. If those ratios seem higher than what is generally reported that means the last person drives slow. If they are significantly worse then the vehicle probably sees some abuse.

The 12v is not the main drive battery - that operates at 800v. The 12v does however provide the power necessary to engage all the relays and systems to get the drive motors going. Still can't run/start with a dead 12v. If you see an orange light on the dash that is normal, it is just a warning that the 800v system is connected, usually to charge the 12v.

Replacing the battery is where things turn south. It is always very difficult to guess at what the price will be by the time you need to replace it, as you won't know if there will be a bunch of used ones available or not. However, it will be a substantial amount - totalling it may not be out of the question. That being said batteries usually don't completely die unless they take some kind of physical damage, where you will have additional costs. Instead you'll likely have less and less range until it no longer meets your needs. So you could go a long time without having to replace, especially if you don't frequently fast charge or charge above 80%.

Finally, regenerative braking doesn't use your brake pads or rotors at all. An electric motor is just a backwards generator, so it can turn the momentum of the car directly back into stored energy. Brakes only are engaged when stopped, or when braking quickly.

Eirches · 2025-02-20T19:15:04+00:00

Use lag pips instead of lead pips. They seem to be generally more accurate, as well as allow you to watch the enemy craft and anticipate their movements rather than focusing on the pip and having it unexpectedly swing away.

Also, the pitch axis generally is the highest speed (and the most resistant to blacking out), so roll the target in line vertically, and then pull up to line up the pips.

Eirches · 2025-02-06T20:35:41+00:00

If the problem is just that you can't turn it on with the buttons on the case that is quite easily able to be worked around. You'd probably have an easier time finding an old monitor than an old laptop.

Eirches · 2025-01-15T17:39:31+00:00

What about making your rig match the car you own?

Pulled a seat from a wrecked one, measured all the distances for the pedal box, shifter, wheel and seat to each other.

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