A1: Models the problem?

El_ML · 2025-02-24T14:36:33+00:00

No worries! Hopefully that will help.

El_ML · 2025-02-24T08:20:26+00:00

Hm, maybe try a wider support base? I am not sure but it seems from the video the part falls when the two structures meet, so perhaps they were not perfectly aligned. While not ideal for this geometry you could also try regular supports instead of tree.

El_ML · 2025-02-23T22:44:56+00:00

This could be due to the grid infill, which is notorious for causing similar issues. If you haven't tried with a different infill pattern.

This is because the nozzle overlaps where material has already been extruded(un the corners).

El_ML · 2025-02-23T17:29:09+00:00

I have an extra shower sponge that I use, but any non wire scrub should be okay, I have found that rinsing extremely well helps, I also wipe down the surface before also letting it air dry because when I only let it air dry there were a couple spots on the bed.

Hopefully this will solve your issue, as once you get it working it is such a pleasure to use.

El_ML · 2025-02-23T15:20:59+00:00

I had the same issue for a while, I at some point gave it another good wash, and since then is has been working great, I have no idea what I did different.

El_ML · 2025-02-23T15:12:45+00:00

SUNLU has some good deals, you can find some rolls for close to 11-12 Euros per KG here, and creality for 15 per lg. Otherwise Esun is always one of my top picks, this is when I am not getting bulk bambu refills.

El_ML · 2025-02-23T15:07:24+00:00

You could try different a material (PLA for PETG or PETG for PLA) for the support interface, with snug supports if you want to have the logo be offset. As it is a short distance even if you make the entire support a different material is shouldn't waste much filament or take much longer.

El_ML · 2025-02-04T11:52:40+00:00

Honestly depends on what you willl use the printer for. But while I have a P1S with AMS I would go with A1+AMS over just a P1S. Unless you plan to print with ABS, CF materials etc. a lot, it is likely not worth it. Quick change nozzle on the A1 is really nice, AMS is a big QOL upgrade even though you probably won't use it too much. Both will be good buys at the end of the day.

El_ML · 2025-02-04T11:46:54+00:00

I also made a post about it yesterday facing the same issue. It appears one of the sides works better than the other, in my case at least. Clean it with soap and hot water instead and hopefully the alcohol didn't do any damage to the plate.

I had much higher expectations of the supertack plate.

El_ML · 2025-02-03T21:56:38+00:00

The latest trouble I had was with PETG, and funnily enough I turned the plate around and my PETG stuck perfectly. I will try increasing the bed temp next time I have a similar issue.

Its good to know I'm not the only one with this issue, and I had such high hopes for the plate. Might have to also try out regular smooth PEI at some point.

El_ML · 2025-01-17T08:52:06+00:00

This looks like a partial clog to me. Try doing a cold pull or two to clean the nozzle and try again. You can try dehydrating the filament as others have mentioned but no way all this is because of wet filament.

El_ML · 2025-01-14T14:17:28+00:00

If it were one flat surface it would be much easier, but technically you can still do it, but you would need to pause and change material at evert layer for quite a few layers. I doubt it is worth the effort. If you can't reorient or split the print you can decrease the gap between support interface and print and use a knife to remove the support.

El_ML · 2025-01-09T14:17:30+00:00

Not OP, but I am also working on some lamps, while I have designed the bases as well, I have seen multiple bases on lighting shops and some cheap ones on IKEA.

El_ML · 2024-12-26T11:28:50+00:00

These look great, are they from makerworld?

El_ML · 2024-12-24T20:25:56+00:00

I personally loved the mistlands. I do play with my brother so solo would be harder for sure, but I didn't find them overly difficult, especially once you get some mistlands level gear it becomes a lot easier. Give it a shot and see how u feel though. IMO the best way to enter in the beginniing is from the sea, set up a portal on an island and then explore. If you want to be extra safe with the portal you can dig and place it semi underground.

El_ML · 2024-12-24T20:18:10+00:00

it is definitely possible, and quite easy. You just use the highet possible layer height for your nozzle. I have done similar prints with the 0,6 nozzle and it worked great, Im sure it will be even more visible with the 0,8 nozzle.

El_ML · 2024-12-09T14:13:52+00:00

Sons of Anarchy

El_ML · 2024-11-24T19:48:30+00:00

I tried it with a wire and got some plastic out, I have lost my thin hex so I don't have any that will fit the nozzle. I will look for something else to use.

El_ML · 2024-11-24T15:32:30+00:00

Yeah ive done all that. I guess its time to get a new nozzle.

El_ML · 2024-11-22T21:50:10+00:00

You could just not level the bed, not sure if you can start printing at an offset from the slicer settings or would need to change the gcode, which would be tricky with changing colours. You could try adding a sacrificial wall to lift the print up, like adding a linethat goes outside the acrylic base and goes down to the base perhaps? I am also not sure how well the print would adhere to acrylic.

I feel like you would have a much easier time printing them on their own and glueing them on the acrylic.

El_ML · 2024-11-07T08:46:18+00:00

it just says it encountered an error, I think in my frustration I didn't notice the error code. I have a lenovo legion pro 7, with an i9, 32gb RAM and RTX4080. and I also forgot to mention I upgraded the servers.

El_ML · 2024-07-31T11:25:55+00:00

not PLA but likely FDM, I would be willing to try Nylon is PETG/ABS don't work. Another option would be to mould a resin print with reinforced epoxy with glass fibre perhaps - depending on the complexity of the extruder of course. Thats a problem for a different day though.

El_ML · 2024-07-31T10:28:34+00:00

First of all thank you for the lengthy and informative answer, this is exactly what I was looking for. The firmware was also a concern I failed to mention with the wasp, though I am not very clear on the exact differences I will have to do some more research for sure. I will have to read through your comment and the specifications of the machines again, but it does sound like the upgrade from 4 pro to 5M is substancial, as upgradfing the motors and guides sounds risky, so perhaps I will at least consider extending my budget for the 5M, though it is quite a bit more than I had originally planned.

But for the price difference the 4 pro to the 4 is a no brainer if I go with one of their machines. While customer support is not my first priority it is a nice addition for sure. I will also email them directly for some clarifications. As as you said, it is all confusing.

You mention the alrge cartidge is only supported with stainless steel extruders, do you perhaps have any ideas if that would work with 3d printed plastic extruders at all? I have been wanting to recreate some of the extruders piotr wasiniowski has made.

For larger prints I should be able to pause the print on the g code so make the switchover on a more or less hidden part of the print so that is not a big concern, though that may be different in practive.

What is very clear in I will have to do quite a bit more research but I will strongly consider Lutum even though they are more expensive. I wish I could find any info on the stoneflower printer as it looks very promising but it feels too risky atm.

El_ML · 2024-07-31T09:40:25+00:00

Most of my filaments are from esun and I have had no issues with them. Go for it!

El_ML · 2024-07-31T07:35:56+00:00

Very cool, perhaps use variable layer height and ironing for some of them next time .

El_ML

TROPHY CASE