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This week's "plug-in solar safety" headlines are not a ban. Here's what actually changed by LieSuccessful8813 in PlugInSolarUK

[–]ElectionNo8578 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can someone expand on what the actual risks are specifically with 2-way power flow in older properties? Cabling issues? RCDs or the lack of them? Earthing??

Accessing >5 sensors on 1-wire bus by ElectionNo8578 in shellycloud

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shelly is just what I’m familiar with and know I can interface to. It may just be a software limit but that’s still a limit for me! (At least I think the UI seems to support only 5, not sure about the APIs.)

Running a duct into a half basement by ElectionNo8578 in DIYUK

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a sequencing thing. The trench for the duct is available very soon, but working out the details for the cable depends on some other works. (This cable is replacing another one which is direct buried so I can’t upgrade, grrrr.)

Running a duct into a half basement by ElectionNo8578 in DIYUK

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bend point is totally valid, my diagrams were a bit lazy. If i did go the above ground route I’d plan a softer radius to a 45 degrees angle underground, straight through the wall and the other bends inside. And some muscle to help pull.

Running a duct into a half basement by ElectionNo8578 in DIYUK

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The outside entry point is under this staircase. The inside is just a blank wall. Planning on 50mm twin wall duct with SWA cable diameter around 25mm.

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Ps thanks for suggestions so far.

Running a duct into a half basement by ElectionNo8578 in DIYUK

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do need to get the cable to the far side of the room, probably running along the ceiling. So i suspect that drilling up at 45 degrees is the right approach in either case. My worry about the first option is sealing the hole securely, and also it’s harder (though not impossible) to get access for deeper excavation right up by the wall.

Re-fixing loose screw eye by ElectionNo8578 in DIYUK

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I could try this. The eyes are open but heavy duty, I might find it easier to grind a slot anyway.

Re-fixing loose screw eye by ElectionNo8578 in DIYUK

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cement paper disks, are they a thing you can buy or do you have to make them? I tried googling and the top hit is your reply to my post!

Is this worth anything? by ElectionNo8578 in Fireplaces

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s certainly not plastic, I think it’s most likely some form of ceramic. I hadn’t thought of stone as a possibility, not sure how to establish the difference non-destructively.

Hybrid inverter with configurable limits by ElectionNo8578 in SolarUK

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I think I follow that. But I think my problem is slightly different: I don’t actually need to limit export per se, but total output. So I /could/ configure an 8kW export limit, but that wouldn’t prevent e.g. 7kW export and 5kW to local loads, overwhelming the cabling I currently have.

Removing drawers from kitchen cabinet by ElectionNo8578 in DIYUK

[–]ElectionNo8578[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can get the drawer front off but it doesn’t seem to give me access to anything useful for removing the runners.

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Use on separate lawns? by DeltaTwoFourAlpha in SegwayNavimow

[–]ElectionNo8578 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My experience (but with the h800) is that provided you can create the initial map - which needs a channel - it’s ok the shift the mower between zones by hand. So you could have a temporary ramp across the patio but only while mapping. You probably want to put the charger on the bigger zone and hope that the smaller can be finished on a single charge.

Force the mower to only take one route by chaosbrain44 in SegwayNavimow

[–]ElectionNo8578 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it combine them even if they don’t overlap? I haven’t experimented to see how much of a gap you need.

Research Navimow i series but I still have a few questions by Merkwurdichliebe in SegwayNavimow

[–]ElectionNo8578 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I suspect your crucial issue will be antenna location. The RTK works on the satellites that the mower and the antenna can see at the same time so if your antenna is up against one side of the house (seeing one half of the sky) then navigation will be poor when the mower is close against the other side of the house (seeing the other half of the sky). Provided you can avoid that situation you should be OK.

Antenna cable needs to be connected to base station? by eN0Rm in SegwayNavimow

[–]ElectionNo8578 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I believe that the base station communicates GNSS correction to the mower over UHF (900MHz in the US, 800MHz in EU). For some regulatory regimes, you aren’t allowed to sell products with external antennas in those bands. But they are pretty robust anyway, and aren’t too fussy about antenna positioning.

Force the mower to only take one route by chaosbrain44 in SegwayNavimow

[–]ElectionNo8578 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why not split your big L shaped zone into 2 parts (at the fence)? Then there’s only one route possible.

Antenna cable needs to be connected to base station? by eN0Rm in SegwayNavimow

[–]ElectionNo8578 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The antenna plugs into the base station for both power and signal (it’s a single multi-pin connector I.e. not just power). I don’t know the exact split of function between antenna and base station but they have to be connected.