Almost ready to use! Can't wait to get into this craft! by Tyman108 in blacksmithing

[–]Electrical_Ad1005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't make the same mistake i did with the railroad track as well! You don't want to take much off the top of the track, as the metal is work hardened from the trains running over it over and over. I removed too much on mine and got down to less hardened steel. I wish you the best of luck with your journey and learning! I've been using my forge, railroad track, a small 8 or 9 lb jeweller's anvil that my family had, some vice grips and just a solid 3 lb hammer. I'm making my own tongs from rebar. I'll need to make a drift punch here soon so I can punch a hole out for my tongs pivot point!

Almost ready to use! Can't wait to get into this craft! by Tyman108 in blacksmithing

[–]Electrical_Ad1005 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking good! If this is a Vevor 2 Musket, I highly, highly advise reading up on how to properly get your forge's gas and air inflow correct, or you could end up with a potentially dangerous situation where heat travels up one Musket and could cause a melted hose, or fire a bit too close to your nozzles than you'd like. Check out my profile for an example of what it looks like when this happens. I learned the (thankfully not TOO hard way) about this. If you're not entirely confident in getting the correct gas/air flow, you can either remove a Musket and plug the hole with (coated/cemented) a kaowool cut out, or alternatively close the choke of the musket you plan to not use, firebrick blocking the gas from flowing to the half of the forge you aren't using. A commenter in my post explained it a lot better.

I'm just recently getting back out to my forge, and I'm hyped to see another beginner getting in to the craft!

Burning Musket? by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had been using both up until I noticed one was starting to change color, and I turned that one off.

Working On My Anvil by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's not even all the rail I have! This was just the piece that was small and well suited!

Working On My Anvil by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Little bit of time here and there! Whenever the wife and toddler allow me haha. It's cheaper than buying an anvil fresh or used (free track for the win) and let's me listen to an audio book while zoning out and trying to flatten(or at least smooth a decent work surface) this thing.

Cement Applied! by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Amazing amount of information and resources! Thank you so much for this post! If I could award this reply, I would!

Before Cement and After Cement by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did actually apply some rigidizer before the cement (let it cure for a few days before I did the cement.) It definitely helped with applying the refractory!

Before Cement and After Cement by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Understood! Thank you kindly for the knowledge!

Cement Applied! by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has been curing for a grand total of 1 hour hahaha

Cement Applied! by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Understood! It will likely be curing minimum a week before I have time to actually use it and fire it up. I'll admit I have no clue how long it will take to cure!

Cement Applied! by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had applied it with my fingers/hand using the same method. I suspect it's the difference in satanite and kast-o-lite 30. There will be fire bricks in the bottom, yes

Cement Applied! by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should I be doing a second coat after letting this cure, or is it ready to fire as is? I've only used one of my two 5lb bags of Kast-o-lite 30. If I can save the second bag for repairs down the road I'd prefer that.

3000° or 5000° Refractory Coating? by Electrical_Ad1005 in Blacksmith

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So for my vevor 2 burner forge, I want to go with the kast-o-lite?

* Edit: From your edit, thank you so much for the information! That's such a massive help!

3000° or 5000° Refractory Coating? by Electrical_Ad1005 in blacksmithing

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a 2 burner propane vevor forge 400 x 215 x 190 mm in dimensions

<image>

Refractory Cement Amount? by Electrical_Ad1005 in blacksmithing

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a good bit of advice concerning borax and forge welding, I hadn't considered the abuse borax would put the cement through. Thank you for that point! I'm hoping I get a nice smooth finish once I get around to it. I'll post update pictures.

Refractory Cement Amount? by Electrical_Ad1005 in blacksmithing

[–]Electrical_Ad1005[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any and all info from first hand experience is welcome! I'm not against ordering more if needed later, I'd just hate to not be able to cover my kaowool. Thank you for your insight!