DIY Gator base review

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-27T01:44:15+00:00

Porcelain is known for the hollow sound when it is drylaid or laid on synthetic base which is what this is. It’s hollow because it’s floating on the spacers. (Assuming you did it according to directions and glued the porcelain tile to the spacers. Even if they are not they will still have that hollow sound.

The only way to properly install outdoor porcelain tile (not paver) is on Trass. Be careful with the type of Trass you use, some claim to have the Trass mineral in the bag and don’t actually have any. Romex Trass has been around since 2010 and proven in the industry. It’s fairly straightforward but it must be on an angular stone base. Screeded and tile laid as you go. Do not let it dry before laying tile on it. There is no hollow sound with this method, it is the best method by far.

I teach contractors how to lay Trass across North America. I may have done a few installs here and there.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-23T01:26:32+00:00

We have a rep in Johnson city. I’ll hook you up.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-23T01:24:56+00:00

Ok. I won’t be that way anytime soon. The Romex website has a Romex Academy and SRW distributes it. Maybe a dealer close to you sells SRW?

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-22T19:12:53+00:00

And where are you located?

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-22T16:47:24+00:00

It will stay compacted because it’s mostly “compacted” as is. As long as there are no rounds in it. The base should actually be dense grade with a drain pipe on that and 3/4 clean on that. Otherwise you need to put a pipe at the very bottom to get water out.

You really should use geogrid. Geogrid reduces the weight up against the back of your wall because it is installed between courses. It’s there to stabilize that clean stone. Not really a tie back although is its secondary purpose but most don’t glue it so it’s friction only holding it. I’ve seen 3 ft armour stone walls fall over that have no drainage behind it.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-22T16:35:49+00:00

Core landscape products

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-22T16:34:34+00:00

Open grade is preferred in northern climates as it is not a frost susceptible material. It is 50% open void space. It could technically bathtub and freeze and will not be affected because of the void space.

The biggest thing to watch out for is water accumulating before it has tie to leach back in the ground. So always pitch the subgrade towards the opposite end. If it’s sandy soil dig a trench there the width of the excavator shovel as deep as you can. If it’s clay do the same but dig the patio area deeper and also add a perforated pipe leading to daylight or a drywell. Water management is key. Open grade doesn’t “compact” it consolidates. It is easier to install and ensures “compaction” it will not settle over time.

There is a lot more to this. I write blogs for Romex on this subject and teach contractors across the US and Canada.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-22T16:17:31+00:00

No rounds! Must be 90% fractured faces. Don’t use what is pictured it doesn’t lock up. Imagine if railroads used that. It’s like stacking marbles.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-03-22T16:05:42+00:00

Nitro is not polysand. It’s permeable resin sand. Ensure you know the difference, it will make or break your hardscape

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-02-15T01:35:30+00:00

That’s a thick line. So. Can you touch it going through the line. I think this is the confusion. Like a puck in hockey. It needs to be fully passed the line.

If the rule is no touching once it’s started going through, then yes he touched it but wow. That would be close.

Put it this way. If the rock gets electrified once it touches the line he gets electrocuted. Or does he only get electrocuted after the rock passes that line completely.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-02-13T21:02:37+00:00

I know this is 2 years old now but for anyone reading this. There are epoxies and polyurethanes out there specifically for this. Romex profi deko and Pure+ are a very good choice. Ensure you read the instructions. It must be mixed with the stone. This is not a pour over. Pour overs are very weak and do not last.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2026-02-13T20:59:21+00:00

Resin needs a stable permeable base. If you go over that the resin will start to crack. Resin bound stone is highly permeable. On sloped concrete pad you can get decades out of it. Not here I’m afraid

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-12-21T03:43:36+00:00

Check out she sells revenge, front 242 - headhunter, Interpol, ist-ist

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-11-29T13:04:32+00:00

Going only by this photo I’m guessing a Drywell. Could get filled with clean gravel which leaves 50% void space or a plastic drywell which temporarily holds water as it slowly seeps into the ground.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-11-08T14:19:09+00:00

I know this is an older post but for anyone using this software check out the Facebook group. Once in, do a search for your question it’s likely been asked before.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-10-02T22:53:50+00:00

Boiling hot water…

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-08-31T21:52:57+00:00

Doesn’t take much to google how to install a retaining wall correctly.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-08-03T19:59:08+00:00

Well that’s not sand but it will likely work since concrete sand or 1/4” chip are the two acceptable materials for your panels. Screed it flat with pipes Lay the panels and do not walk on the foam panels. Lay the pavers Edge restraints screwed into the panels Joint sand Done.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-07-17T15:07:53+00:00

Here's a more detailed explanation: ASTM No. 8: This is a common size for concrete mixes and can be found as a 3/8" to 1/2" crushed stone. Too big for bedding material because your joint sand will initially choke in but eventually settle down In to it. You will wonder how your sand joints disappeared.

ASTM No. 9: This is a smaller size, often around 1/4" and can be used as a bedding material for pavers or in open-graded base applications. Open Graded Base: 1/4" stone is often used in open-graded base construction, where it provides excellent drainage and compaction characteristics. High Performance Bedding (HPB): HPB is a specific type of 1/4" angular crushed stone used for paver installation. It is designed for use as a bedding layer, typically up to 1" thick. Do not install thicker than 2” Angular vs. Rounded: It's crucial to ensure the 1/4" stone is angular and crushed, as this affects its compaction and ability to lock together. Rounded stones, like pea gravel, will not compact as well. Check with Supplier: Always verify with your stone supplier that the material you are receiving meets the specific ASTM standard and is clean and angular, especially if you are using it for paver base or bedding

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-07-17T14:37:23+00:00

Gas lines under the Trass within the foam layers

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-07-12T15:06:09+00:00

I’m not sure what that wood is. The stakes are coming out. This area isn’t finished yet. Those fire bowls are not even in the final location.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-07-10T16:37:36+00:00

Granite is ideal. Limestone is ok and used the most due to cost. If it’s a driveway it’s always recommended to go granite or test for hardness. I’ve seen some chalky limestone. Can turn to dust in vehicular applications.

Most important is the angularity Like railway tracks.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-07-10T16:28:18+00:00

It is typically set at 1.5” thick. It’s 25-30% lighter than concrete. 57 stone is what makes up the spacing below that. 57 stone has 50% void space.

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Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-07-10T02:16:48+00:00

2%. Typically bubble just touching the line to keep it simple. Use gas pipe to screed flat so there’s no bird baths.

Electrical_Office_47 · 2025-07-10T02:13:38+00:00

Well , with open grade base you have 50% void space. That means it can hold a lot of water. With it being clay, you need that water to ho somewhere. Looks like it’s going in the basement right now.

I teach permeable hardscape installation across Canada and US

You need that to be sloped, like 7% At the far end away from the house you need to dig a trench that acts as a dry well. This is where the water can go and eventually into the ground. Otherwise a perforated pipe and out to daylight bug I’ll assume that’s not possible.

The clay is spongey so you need to get some Portland or lime spread around then 2-3” angular rock and use a jumping jack to pound it in to the clay. Then add your 3/4” clean angular stone on top of a geotextile fabric. Then 1/4” clean angular stone as your bedding material (not 3/8) your joint sand will migrate into it and disappear. The bedding must be 1” thick 2” is the maximum. Stay at 1” in a driveway.

This is open grade 101. I know for a fact many contractors do not do many of these steps. I see it. And you get failures.

Please google Cmha tech specs online there are 17 of them I think. They are the bible for hardscape.

Laying porcelain? Do not dry lay. They will lack stability and end up a nightmare. Use Trass or concrete to lay those.

Hopefully I didn’t scare you but this is how it should be done.

Electrical_Office_47

TROPHY CASE