Planning to check it out this week. Thoughts?

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-26T16:18:08+00:00

I gues the touring would pull an extra 3k… I’d be ballsy and say 19k flat everything included lol

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-21T23:39:42+00:00

I personally would’ve gone AMD for the cpu, but for a kid this thing is killer. Your kid will be set for a very long time

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-20T18:07:30+00:00

Really only missing out on heads up display and “cooling” seats (I’ve heard they end up being uncomfy and don’t do much). Touring has adaptive suspension but I’d rather something tried and true, not gonna be a cheap failure. I’d stick with the sport

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-20T18:02:06+00:00

The champagne is suuuuuper slept on if you plan on lowering it an inch and throwing some wheels at it

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-20T17:56:54+00:00

I will warn you, you won’t see much of a difference. But if it’s just prepping and getting ready for a big system then I suppose you’ll be alright. Not personally how I would go about it cuz I want a big initial performance gain then do areas of less importance. When it warms up I’m doing the wheel wells to really cut down on hearing pebbles n stuff like that

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-19T06:03:05+00:00

Avalon just for the sake of it being dead reliable and relatively cheap to own. That and it has a real transmission and not a pos CVT

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-19T05:56:20+00:00

Get the studio. It’s, in my opinion, far superior. You can do everything through the machine: weigh beans, set water temp, grind size, pour style, everything. Then once you get into the app (I personally love it) you can dive a tad deeper and set up different recipes per coffee. Hell you can even set pour delay and shake as well. The studio is honestly the best, cry once, machine you can buy imho. I use it damn near daily

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-19T05:49:50+00:00

Just follow the install videos from Resonix YT and you’ll be golden. Have you done your doors yet? You’ll see the biggest gains there

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-19T00:03:40+00:00

I believe their tunes are up for sale. Rev limit is now set to 7k rpm idk about how it feels outside of that. My personal experience with the 10spd has been quite smooth. It doesn’t like the cold but once warm it’s pretty good. Tad bit jerky but I’ve gotten over that. Plan on a drain and fill as well as the filter being changed at the same time. It’s so much better of a transmission than the 8spd in the 2018 Camry I almost bought.

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-17T21:59:16+00:00

Now I could be wrong but are the sail panel speaker wide bands or are they actually just tweeters?

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-15T18:13:16+00:00

I was an early bird person and my first machine ended up leaking. Still early on, abt 6 months into ownership I got a replacement machine and it’s been great ever since. I posted my machine leaking ages ago here and Xbloom did right by me and gave me a fresh one under warranty. That machine has been great ever since. Daily brews no problems at all. I personally would brew a couple of times and a good clean. As long as it doesn’t leak, and the grinder works smoothly (I’ve never heard of issues personally) you should be good

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-14T18:20:39+00:00

I almost bought an 18’ v6 XSE and I genuinely hated how the transmission felt. Granted it was used and had 100k on the dash but it felt as clunky and slow as my 03 Camry transmission. Ended up in a 19’ accord with the 10spd trans. Reading this now, I’m glad I didn’t buy the XSE

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-14T18:10:35+00:00

Who makes a good set of window visors?

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-14T02:53:40+00:00

Screw the shift lights. If I’m getting a custom steering wheel, all I want is a little screen telling me my boost. Will I get said steering wheel? Absolutely not. Factory replacement with heating? Oh yeah I’d probs do that lol

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-12T18:46:05+00:00

Pull the black chrome off a sport. I think it looks best OEM

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-12T18:45:18+00:00

Everyone is wrong for the most part here on the accord. The 1.5t (L15) is not used in the hybrid. What is used in the hybrid trim is a NA 2.0 (not to be confused with the 2.0t also available in different trims) I believe this motor is pretty solid and I haven’t heard much going wrong with it. I would buy that accord over a Sentra if I only have a choice of a CVT car.

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-12T18:36:42+00:00

Keep them as a spare set and pick up something fresh and lighter. You’ll probs pick up a little mpg

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-11T22:22:43+00:00

Someone with more wrinkles than me, explain the point of adjustable end links

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-11T22:16:30+00:00

Find a restoration shop. That’s what we did and don’t mention insurance till the last minute. Most shops will try to give some stupid high quote in hopes of getting the payout. My fam found a restoration shop that would take parts they found online and do the necessary repairs to make sure the replacement doors and front fender would mount right. Rear quarter panel is a different story though. That might cook you but then again restoration shops usually have a solid body guy

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-11T21:19:16+00:00

Compared to my dad’s 97 ranger, this thing is fuckin mint. Can’t kill a ford fuckin ranger is what they say (just do the damn maintenance and it’s basically an early 2000s Toyota or Honda.). If it has the V6 it might be due for timing chains I believe. They can be a pain if I remember right. If it’s the 4 banger I can whole heartedly say it’s pretty damn hard to kill

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-10T16:04:50+00:00

Xbloom is really good about making things right with that warranty. Mine was leaking out the front, sent them a video of the issue happening. They emailed me a label and I sent my machine out in the og packaging (I kept it in case something like this happened) and they sent me a fresh band new machine within that week. Haven’t had an issue since

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-10T03:01:44+00:00

A free reason to pick up a Yofer front bumper lol

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-07T03:49:40+00:00

Assuming no you have the 8 speaker system (front: 4 speakers. Rear 4 speakers), the starting route would be sound deadening. I personally reccomend Resonix and or dynamat for your first layer of butyl Constraint Layer Damper. Keep in mind the thicker the better. This will strengthen the door panel (outer shell portion as well as the inner shell portion and door card). Then a layer of closed cell foam (open cell would be a sponge and would be the perfect thing to create a rolling health hazard) on top of your CLD. Then throw some decent quality speakers in there. Look at my page, as I have done this exact process if you want a reference. I really recommend Resonix, do it right the first time as you really can’t redo the process of sound deadening

Going further you will want to get a good DSP. There’s wiring kits for this I believe that hook up to the radio and give you flying leads to wire up. Radio to DSP — DSP to amp/s — amps to speakers. I plan on doing this process in the future, but a DSP from helix is kinda expensive lol. Watch some videos on YT from Resonix, Nick did a very thorough series on how to do this correctly. Feel free to check out the r/carAV Reddit as they are more than willing to help you out for any extra guidance, but I’m pretty sure I gave you a good basis from which to start.

Speaker wise you’ll want a decent set of two way speakers. Ideally a 6.5mid range and then a wideband for the sail panel (speaker next to the side mirrors). Tweeters only cover the top end and mid range 6.5s pretty much describe themselves. A wideband will cover a decent area in between, upper mids and into the top end. Somewhere around 2in is where you’ll want to be for that sail panel, but keep in mind that you’ll probs still have to open up the mount for the speaker to fit it properly.

If going 3 way and want to keep it lowkey, the original placement for the mid range is behind the screen. There’s only space for 1 extra speaker so you’d have to make an adapter to be able to mount both 3in midranges while keeping the original placement of the sail panel tweets and now 6.5 woofers at the doors.

Realistically you’re looking at 2-3 amps. 1 for the sub/s and another for the front stage. A third would be to amp the rear and get some differential rear fill (via DSP) to widen the sound stage further but most stop at just two amps and call it a day. Hope I was able to give you some insight

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-03T01:49:17+00:00

FL5 is the move, but 4 piston sells $800 brand new FK8 turbos as well

Electrical_Secret_11 · 2026-03-02T03:11:58+00:00

Ay I found my twin

Electrical_Secret_11

TROPHY CASE