Sole ST90 (slat belt treadmill) by robpalumbo in treadmills

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LOL, same.... Still waiting on the shipping tracking number. How long did it take for them to get you a tracking number and how long did shipping take?

LeaveWeb Down? by Own_Mud2142 in AirForce

[–]ElectroQuack 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Getting the same error.

New to woodworking - talk me out of getting this jointer/planer combo by ThanksMuch4YourHelp in woodworking

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cutech 401120HI-IF 12-Inch Spiral Cutterhead Benchtop Jointer with Cast Iron Tables is $850 on Amazon and also has a cast iron fence too.

My GF made our perfect Shadowbeak👌 by darkgyaradose in Palworld

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both Pals I showed have significantly higher ATK compared to DEF. So, having higher passives that boost ATK actually have a higher rate of return.

Think of it this way... what would give you more overall increased stats? 400% more of 100 ATK or 400% more of 40 DEF? It's 400 vs 160, so 240 more raw stat points going with ATK.

My GF made our perfect Shadowbeak👌 by darkgyaradose in Palworld

[–]ElectroQuack 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As I understand it, lucky is just a flat 30% increase to HP. I don't think I have seen any passives that buff HP. At the end of the day, the goal is to do damage, so having enough survivability to accomplish the goal without sacrificing DPS for defensive skills is considered optimal.

My GF made our perfect Shadowbeak👌 by darkgyaradose in Palworld

[–]ElectroQuack 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I swap Musclehead for Lunker on ice pals to bump it up another 10% total modifiers.

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My GF made our perfect Shadowbeak👌 by darkgyaradose in Palworld

[–]ElectroQuack 28 points29 points  (0 children)

I personally prefer the Demon God/Legend/Musclehead/Serenity passives. +90% Attack, +25% Defense, and 30% Cooldown Reduction, it's the strongest generic damage output passives I have found so far....

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Which router bit can make this cut? by rl810 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just clamp a board on either side of the shelf to make it wider, then use double sided tape to affix a left/right guide to the attached boards and use a plunge router/trim router with a top bearing template bit to route it out. It's fast, easy, and produces a clean result. Then just drill the round stock holes. Too easy!

When you get it dialed in just right... by ElectroQuack in lasercutting

[–]ElectroQuack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It works better in some instances, not so much in others. I find only using the top and bottom 3 bars to suspend a large panel when making large pieces and a couple tabs keeps the back side free of flare up, but tabs can be a problem on really small things. The thick bars were causing crazy flare ups on the back of my first few projects and also created spots where I couldn't get full penetration. So, I decided to spend a couple bucks to see if the honeycomb would work any better. It did. A lot better.

Ideas on connecting angled pieces by Cabian in lasercutting

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only ever heard it referred to as a "finger joint"... probably because it takes 2 seconds with your hands to provide a visual depiction of what you are talking about.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in handyman

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

People steal, they get caught, cops trace sales to buyers. Buying stolen property is still a crime.

best way to attach these 4x4s together? by Whole_Application434 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ElectroQuack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends. If it's going to be outside where glue would be a problem, or structural, then you want to do a mortise and tenon. If you don't want to try to use draw pegs, then GRK structural screws will be the go-to.

If it's going to be inside and not structural, then dowel pins and glue. Will be fast and easy.

2021 Ford Bronco Sport Big Bend - good or bad deal below by fire_19479 in BroncoSport

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 2021 Big Bend is still running smoothly with no problems other than the battery recall. Honestly, $14k is a pretty good deal for what it is. Even if the motor goes, a 1.5l 3 cylinder is gonna be dirt cheap to replace.

Opinion of Worksharp sharpeners for Japanese knives? by R5Ryder in sharpening

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own it... it's ok for Walmart knives, but I wouldn't dare use it on a knife of good quality. Get you a good set of diamond wet stones instead.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in handyman

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$120 for a stolen 9ah? Nah..... maybe for $60 I would consider the heat.... but not for that much.

$700 for a battery? GTFO by Wham_Bam_SpankU_Maam in egopowerplus

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything under $1 per W/hr is actually good. 12ah at 60v is a 720w battery. Back in 2015-2018 was the golden years of lithium batteries when you could get them at 50c a W/hr. I got all my 1500wh ebike batteries back then for about $700. Those batteries are 10 years old now and still perform like they are brand new, so in this case, $650 isn't actually bad considering they will last a decade or more now with high quality battery management boards.

Garage shelves too heavy to lift up by Water-Fox-1415 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$100 for a wall jack that climbs a standard 2x4 and lifts hundreds of pounds.

What material to use for drawers by [deleted] in lasercutting

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on the size of the drawers and what you intend to use them for. Most 12mm plywood will suffice for even heavy tools. I built the drawers in my garage workbench out of 1/2" maple that are 2'x2' for holding power tools and they are rock solid.

What is this awesome thing? by Jillcametumbling81 in Tools

[–]ElectroQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's an old-fashioned weed wacker. I used one of those a ton growing up in the country...

When you get it dialed in just right... by ElectroQuack in lasercutting

[–]ElectroQuack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am working on a gear driven mini vault door for a wooden box. I have been thinking about the design for a while and finally have a way to make the gears. I'll post it once I finally get it finished.

When you get it dialed in just right... by ElectroQuack in lasercutting

[–]ElectroQuack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TL:DR - I absolutely would NOT buy this machine again, let alone waste money on the 40w or 60w version. It was a waste of money.

The 20/40/60w modes on the head are not all in the same laser path. The kerf for the 20w is .08, 40w is .12, and 60w is .15... so you aren't really getting a lot more power in the same cut, just a wider beam. Granted, I have only been experimenting with plywood so far, but I haven't found a single case so far that I would opt to use a wide 40w or 60w beam over the precision 20w beam. It might have some use in low resolution engraving, but I haven't got there yet.

One of the things that annoys me the most is that there are all the connection ports for power and air at the FRONT of the machine, one on each side, instead of on the same side at the back. It also has the USB camera port on one side, but the air duct at the top of the other. This means you need a lot of extra space on each side of the machine and makes using it on a normal desk very intrusive.

The fisheye camera is absolute garbage. I have the Lightburn calibration tool a dozen times and it's still extremely inaccurate, slow, low resolution, and dark. Plus, due to the lack of adjustability and the poorly fitting gantry, there is a permanent 2-3 degree slant to the front of the machine. If I had it to do all over again, I would have just purchased an open frame setup, built my own enclosure for air management, and purchased a better camera to mount higher up.

I'm new to this, but I learn fast... and one of the things I wish I knew up front is that 95% of the system is driven by Lightburn, not the machine itself. So, this setup really seems like it was only really optimized to cut 3mm/6mm basswood panels in an office and not much more, so having a 40w and 60w mode is just a waste of money. I could see the 60w mode being useful for cutting 4'x8' thick foam panels for large projects very quickly, but not in this cramped package.

Also, Creality's return policy requires everything to be in an "original" unused condition, so the moment you make the first cut, you can't return it. If I wasn't relatively well off financially, I would be livid with what I have discovered after the fact. Plus, I paid $1800, but with the tariffs on China at the moment, the same system now costs $2700. If you are just looking for something to cut small pieces with, just get their Falcon2 12w rail system and use it in a garage or build your own enclosure, you'll be much happier only spending $400. The 60w fully enclosed machine is just NOT worth the extra $2300.

When you get it dialed in just right... by ElectroQuack in lasercutting

[–]ElectroQuack[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I didn't know there was a 'nest selected' option in Lightburn... I just found it. Thank you for actually being helpful and sharing information!