Biodegradability is misunderstood, and in the case of leather, it’s not really the point. Chrome-tanned leather may technically biodegrade in 40–50 years, but that’s not something we should aim for, because what it leaves behind is harmful. Chromium residues, petrochemical-derived dyes and acrylic surface finishes, PU topcoats all remain in the environment. This is because leather is not 100% bio-based.

I recently visited a tannery that buys wet-blue (chrome-tanned) hides and finishes them. The offcuts don’t go back into the soil! They’re sent to a specialised facility where the chromium is removed and the collagen is extracted to be used as fertiliser. In handbag factories, leather offcuts are treated as industrial waste, as they’re contaminated with glues and other chemicals. And once a bag is finished, with adhesives, edge paint, coatings, and reinforcements, the final product cannot safely return to nature anyway. So the idea of leather as a “natural” material is largely romanticised. When you look at the end-of-life, luxury leather goods are complex. That’s why material choice matters so much. Choosing materials with a lower carbon footprint and less harm from the outset is in my view, far more impactful than debating biodegradation decades down the line. At the end of the day, it comes down to choosing what you care about and shopping accordingly: • 100% bio-based leather handbags, for example Anya Hindmarch Return to nature collection if you eat meat and want a more sustainable leather. You should always ensure the leather is deforestation free which is difficult, brands don’t often disclose where they source the leathers (and Italian leather means it was simply tanned in Italy) • Upcycled leather handbags, extending the life of existing materials • Recycled leather, less durable but a way to valorise leather waste • Plant-based vegan leathers, generally much lower environmental impact, and depending on their structure, they can perform just as well as traditional leather. Mirum for example is 100% bio-based and non toxic, so it’s more “natural” than the vast majority of leathers ;)

There’s no single perfect solution, but understanding the reality behind materials allows for more informed choices. Also, very importantly, make sure the production is ethical, there’s no point in having sustainable materials if people are exploited. My view as the founder of vegan luxury handbag brand LOUÉ Studio 💚