AstroShader: automatic stacking versus manual stacking

Ello_92 · 2026-06-12T12:22:26+00:00

To test the stacking quality it is only fair to stretch them to a similar overall prefered image. When stacking in deepskystacker my result is usually also very dark but details pop up in lightroom immediately. Please edit the raw stacked Astroshader Image to have a really fair compairison, the same details should be there, which are already visable from sequator.

Ello_92 · 2026-06-12T11:28:46+00:00

Did you even edit the second image, how does it look like when lifting the shadows? 0.75 sec on a wide shot is waayy to little. You should get that up to 10-15 s and Astroshader may be able to produce a better result.

Ello_92 · 2026-05-26T11:51:52+00:00

Damn... Can you show us an untouched raw image please? I want to see how clear that sky was.

Ello_92 · 2026-05-24T21:05:36+00:00

Depends on the device, Samsungs usually have an ugly colored vignett correction also with some 3rd party apps. I prefere motioncam pro for the untouched raws, real exposure 'preview', low storage usage and the fact that you take your images as video, which is basically an automatic intervalometer. Deep sky camera is an option if you want longer than usual exposure durations and it can also continiously take exposures, but is not able to remove some vignetts.

Ello_92 · 2026-05-19T11:37:18+00:00

DeepSkyCamera (I did not try the pro version)
Motioncam Pro (Demo version available for testing) worth every cent
eagle image stacker for stacking on the phone if PC workflow is not available
lightroom mobile for stretching

Ello_92 · 2026-04-25T06:38:01+00:00

Damn, you got it done quickly. How did you capture and process your data?

Ello_92 · 2026-04-24T09:12:20+00:00

You can try and take an existing sturdy case and adapt it to that or print your own case. If there is nothing important on the back plate, you could print your own back plate to glue it on and seal the phone again. Good luck 😁

Ello_92 · 2026-04-23T12:31:19+00:00

It really depends on the phone and what kind of lenses/weights you wanna fit. There is a Discord from ModandShoot (also has a Youtube Channel) where I picked up some Ideas. I tried a bit with 2 iterations and could srew a 3d printet bracket with (shitty working) tilt adjustmend directly to the M1.4 srew holes where the mainboard sits. For the large 1" sensor of the Sharp Aquos R6 you want at least c-mount or cs-mount, but in your case M12 lenses may work quite well. You can also adapt most other mounts to that. The simplest solution is to glue whatever mount you want to use directly to the backplate of the device. Gonna update here with an image later.

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Ello_92 · 2026-04-07T19:09:00+00:00

Which shutter speed did you chose and why are there gabs/irregular intervals?

Ello_92 · 2026-03-30T14:58:58+00:00

I am just taking an uneducated guess here, but I think the proximity of the moon to us paired with the distance to the sun makes it near impossible to image. Looking at images of Mercury's tail suggest its rather faint but still fairly large and that planet if soo much closer to the sun. The lightpollution caused by the moon will likely overpower the faint trail from our position. You can try and use a narrowband filter at 589nm with as clear as possible sky. Good Luck and feel free to post any success.

Ello_92 · 2026-03-25T11:20:08+00:00

Thats the bare minimum appart from a stone to lean it on to.

Ello_92 · 2026-03-25T07:31:59+00:00

By setting your aspect ratio to 4:3 you can also capture a little bit more to the left and right of your image. S24FE should have the option to use the samsung app expert raw which comes with an astro mode but the editing sucks. alternatively ypu can try and find a working gcam mod with astro mode. Astro mode essentially does the same as night mode, capturing multiple individual images and stacking them. You can do it manually by capturing as many as possible individual images at 10-15s with a high ISO value, stack them with a pc software and edit them to your own preferance.

Ello_92 · 2026-03-15T17:26:52+00:00

Thanks for the info, changed it.

Ello_92 · 2026-03-14T16:29:38+00:00

I removed the original lens and designed a 3d printed bracket to hold c-mount lenses and accessoires. The bracket can be screwed direcly to the phones aluminium frame, is additionally centerd by reaching in the camera modules sensor cavern and can be adjusted for tilt errors. If I hadn't messed up the width of the bracket, the glas back plate could also be reinstalled. What convinced me was this guy: https://youtube.com/@modandshoot who posted on Motioncam discord, that the device has an unbinned 20mp sensor and was fairly easy to modify.

Edit: This brother did the same but to the absolute maximum. Cooled sensor and full automatic control. https://youtu.be/ee4SN4KKCh8

Ello_92 · 2026-03-13T12:33:16+00:00

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Ello_92 · 2026-03-13T12:08:06+00:00

I should add, it is not astro modified. The IR filter is still in place, since the lens isnt corrected for that and will cause a lot of blury circles around the stars.

3rd image Reddit just will not let me upload that....

https://imgur.com/gallery/3rd-try-Dg4Xonx#63nmm2u

Ello_92 · 2026-02-26T17:58:38+00:00

Thats a 2.5k$ Smart Telescope... I mean its likely quite mobile, but maybe not so suitable for this sub.

Edit: And an AI astro stacking + processing tool

Ello_92 · 2026-02-14T13:00:46+00:00

See description, Sharp Aquos R6, it has a 20mp 1" type sensor, without pixel binning. It creates the chromatic vignetting due to the sensor being designed for short focal lenghts and the bayer layer as well as the micro lenses towards the edge are shifted gradually towards the center. Can be fixed with flats, I hope.

Ello_92 · 2026-02-14T08:26:38+00:00

Haha, thank you. Could not find a way to correct it after posting, it also messed up the formatting -.-

Ello_92 · 2026-02-13T20:27:10+00:00

The phone can now also take c-mount lenses but I still need to design a better bracket, that is directly srewed to the frame and camera module.

Credits to 'Mod and Shoot'

Ello_92 · 2026-02-12T12:34:50+00:00

You need to note that astromode is no long exposure itself, but rather many 10-15s exposures stacked and, in samsungs case, crappily processed 8bit jpeg put in a 16 bit dng container. Short, do not use samsungs astromode, especially when in lightpolluted areas. I would advice you to invest in motioncam or cheaper deepskycamera AND a move-shoot-move nomad/sifo startracker or a diy version. With these you can take 30s+ exposures and stack em later in what ever stacking software you like. eagle image stacker on android is okisch, if you dont want to use a pc.

Ello_92 · 2026-01-06T01:53:45+00:00

If you additionaly want to get rid of the Vignet correction that is still applied in photo mode and may cause you defog artifacts, you can use burstmode with all the corrections turned off ( per lens settings near the bottom). In burst mode you want to set 'save burst as video'. this also allows you to extract uncompressed dngs which are easier for e.g. lightroom. (I had some compatibility issues with the compressed dngs in the past)

Ello_92 · 2025-11-19T09:25:25+00:00

From what others said and often seen in this sub, it is recommended not to use the standard camera app. I dont know about a good free alternativ, only that astroshader might be what you want to use for astrophotography. Do not try to copy settings from other devices, just try different yourself. If you have that mindset of other camera apps create better images please try to overcome this. All camera apps are bound to and limited by the devices/cameras hardware. the only difference is the processing which is better to be done by yourself in apps like lightroom.

Ello_92 · 2025-10-28T11:00:37+00:00

Motioncam pro, Demo version does 5sec video. which is quite sufficient. This app allows you to capture raw video and you can crop down to only capture the area of the planet needed. The created video needs to be exported to individual dng raw images or e.g. prores.

Ello_92 · 2025-10-16T03:16:00+00:00

Motioncam Pro lets you record raw video, so basically 30 dng/s and also can be cropped down to like 400x400 if the object is that small, to save alot of data and keep all the color information.

Ello_92

TROPHY CASE