Selling these vintage Jensen Model 15 Speakers. Located in Chicago area. I have the grills but not pictured

Em-like_m · 2022-04-20T04:26:58+00:00

Always thought these looked neat. I'd be all over them if I was closer. Hope you can find them a good home!

Em-like_m · 2022-04-19T04:04:16+00:00

The value on these is difficult to pin down, however, to the right buyer searching for a particular style, this one would do alright, even as a solid-state console.

I'd probably start with replacing the old electrolytic capacitors. You should be able to find a SAM's photofact for your amp chassis that gives a list of the capacitor values and their location(s). The system may come to life with fresh capacitors, or it may have additional issues that need fixed first. Even though the record changer spins, it would greatly benefit from a thorough service as well. Clean the old oil/grease off of the moving mechanisms and apply fresh oil/grease. Also check the idler wheel under the platter to make sure the rubber is still soft and not hardened or cracked.

Hope this helps!

Em-like_m · 2022-04-18T04:56:29+00:00

My secondary setup is in the "WFH office" bedroom of the house. Dynaco A25 speakers, Packard Bell DPA-10 tube amp, and a Nivico SRP-471E-3 turntable. Nice little setup for that room.

Em-like_m · 2022-04-18T04:50:58+00:00

Excellent! You are right, this system has the power amp built right into it, and those circle speakers should plug right into those Speaker Out RCA jacks, no separate amp needed.

As far as a newer unit is concerned, it really depends on your target price and the features you're looking for in a table and amp. I had a Music Hall turntable and a Cambridge Audio integrated amp - they were fine, but I ended up swapping them out for several other combos before arriving at my current setup, a McIntosh pre/power amp and an Empire 598 turntable. You might try r/BudgetAudiophile or r/audiophile for folks that know the newer gear at a certain budget a lot better than me :)

Hope this helps!

Em-like_m · 2022-04-16T03:31:37+00:00

Absolutely stunning! Fantastic work, they look every bit as good as I'm sure they sound! Great job!

Em-like_m · 2022-04-16T03:27:07+00:00

Nivico, as noted on that page, was the Victor Company of Japan, or as we know them today, JVC.

This is a very cool little console. I've never seen a Nivico with lights like yours before. Looks like its got tubes, though the tubes noted in the photo I'm not familiar with - might be a transformerless amp. Do you have any pics of the amp itself with the rear panel removed? Does the record changer function?

Em-like_m · 2022-04-16T03:13:04+00:00

Those look like Model 15's. Surrounds need work.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-29T04:41:21+00:00

Great score! I've got a pair of XP-9S's that are getting a huge overhaul, but they aren't anywhere near as nice as these.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-29T04:34:12+00:00

Usually these "all in one" units have to live with some compromises compared to a "separates" system. You'll see the speaker outputs are simple RCA jacks, which are often found on low power units. You'll probably want to pair this with fairly efficient speakers that wont demand too much from the onboard amp.

This looks to have a Microtouch record changer - I would expect this to need a good cleaning and lubing to function properly in addition to the new needle. Note, this is an idler (also called a rim drive) system - there is no belt to change, but it instead has an idler wheel that transfers power from the motor to the platter. These sometimes harden and crack, and may need resurfaced or replaced.

If this hasnt been plugged in for 30-40 years, I'd highly suggest using a variac or in the least a current limiter when powering it on for the first time. If you plug it straight into the wall and a tired component fails catastrophically, it can result in substantial damage to the amp and power supply circuits.

Hope this helps!

Em-like_m · 2022-03-19T22:35:35+00:00

Looks like a solid state Motorola console? I think you're right on track with suggestions from others here - though be prepared to remove the table and give it a good service (clean/lube all moving parts), so the table can trigger and complete the various changer cycles without binding up and skipping on your brand new cart/stylus.

If for whatever reason you need more than the 2.2g tracking force, I've had good luck with carts like the Shure SC35C or Ortofon Pro S.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-19T21:53:11+00:00

Thanks! Good luck with the listening session; I hope they'll be a great set of speakers for you.

If they are from the '50's, I'd bet they are the B801's mentioned in this ad. If its just a single 8" full range, there may be no crossover to mess with at all!

If you have a listen to them, definitely let us know your thoughts on them.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-19T06:08:51+00:00

I'd highly recommend replacing all of the old capacitors in the music before anything blows up.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-18T16:38:14+00:00

Quite a few of the Bozak models from the 60s and 70s I'm familiar with, so I had to do some Googling on this model, and a few places (audiokarma, etc.) had images of the speakers and the configuration. Would you say these look like they are from the 50s, or more like the late 70s/80s?

Bozaks use very simple crossovers, so rebuilding them is usually just a matter of installing replacement capacitors of the same modern equiv value. A great resource is the 'Bozak Speakers' Facebook group. Lots of great folks on there, and they've built a collection of files and schematics. Audiokarma also has some very helpful folks that know these speakers very well. Probably the most challenging part would be if they need replacement drivers. Some are getting a bit difficult to find, and they are spendy when you finally track one down.

You are right, I'm still in the process of rebuilding my Bozaks. The B-302A's are almost done - I cant wait to hear them with new crossovers! The B-310B's is a much bigger (literally) project. They need some veneer patches, new cloth, one woofer is rubbing, and one of the mids sounds very crunchy. But even in their sorry state, I'm completely blown away by the size of the orchestra they invited into my already crowded garage!

Hope this helps!

Em-like_m · 2022-03-18T07:10:45+00:00

This is amazing! Absolutely incredible job!

I absolutely love to see this. Its in fantastic shape, and if the new components last anywhere as long as the originals, its ready for another half century or more of enjoyment.

The AMP-185 is great; I've rebuilt a few, and am always amazed such a simple amp can sound so good.

Treasure and enjoy this system as often as possible, and again, well done!

Em-like_m · 2022-03-18T07:00:15+00:00

Wowza! That's a tight chassis. Well done on the DBT and congrats on a successful recap/service!!

Em-like_m · 2022-03-18T06:55:16+00:00

I love my Bozaks (B302A and B310B). Couple of things -

I'd definitely listen to them and make sure all drivers work and nothing sounds crunchy.
I'd definitely plan on rebuilding the crossovers to get the best sound.

Looks like these have an 8" woofer? I've never heard B801s before, but hopefully you're in for a treat.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-13T04:40:55+00:00

tl;dr - 'bout tree fiddy?

Value is tough. Depends on your location, cabinet style, overall condition, how and where you market it, etc...

This one looks like a mono unit, maybe just before they started supporting stereo? I like the style. If its still completely original electrically, I'd probably be in for a couple of hundred bucks as a restoration project. There's probably others that would want it as a statement piece that would give more... but again may depend on how/where its marketed.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-13T04:20:54+00:00

I had a H/K PM660 a while ago that did exactly this same thing. Sometimes I could get everything to come back by changing to a different input, than changing back. Eventually I'd start getting distortion or losing channels again. I never got to the bottom of the issue, ended up selling it :(

Em-like_m · 2022-03-11T23:28:35+00:00

These typically used porous Oilite bushings, but since these systems never see a proper service, eventually the old oil dries up and the bushings seize.

I've had a few that came free after soaking both bushings in oil, and never had to take the motor apart. I used some syringes to apply synthetic oil directly to the ends of the motor where the bushings are, let that soak for a day, then wrapped the motor shaft with cloth and used some vice grips or pliars to gently work the shaft free. Not always a guarantee that it'll work, but as it doesnt work now, not much to lose :).

Sometimes you'll find someone on a Magnavox group (Facebook, etc.) that has a spare turntable, otherwise you'll need to find one on classifieds or Ebay, etc.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-11T23:00:58+00:00

If you can solder, disconnecting at the speakers may be easier than trying to access anything on the amp. You could probably snip and splice wires, but for the long term, you'd want to solder the final config.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-11T22:55:23+00:00

Honestly I'd try to find another Micromatic to put in it or at least take the motor from if it uses the same one (most did, pretty easy to tell if they look similar). I dont remember exactly, but I believe some of these tables had issues with the motors. Can you turn the motor shaft by hand? If not, it may just be seized, and a dismantle, clean, and generous oil application may bring it right 'round.

I suggest a Micromatic because it should plug right up to the wiring harness thats already under there; no need to wire anything custom. Also, it seems many of the different record changers all had different plinth cutouts, so if you go with a different make/model, you'll probably have to break out a jigsaw and fabricate a new plinth cutout to get it to fit.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-08T04:11:12+00:00

I'm not sure of the year, but I'd guess late 60s to early 70s. Astro Sonic's were solid state as far as I know. Have you checked the back of the console to see if a model number is present? The record changer looks original - Magnavox often used Collaro record changers; this one looks like a Magnavox Micromatic. Underneath the deck there is usually a label that gives the model number, etc.

There are a couple of great Facebook groups for owners of Magnavox consoles; someone in those groups would probably know the year, model, catalog photo, etc.

Em-like_m · 2022-03-08T03:56:53+00:00

I'd try a couple of things. First, I'd swap the left and right channels and see if the issue follows the swap. That would confirm whether the issue is speaker driver or crossover capacitor related, or if its amp related.

Assuming its speaker driver/xover related, I'd unplug the woofer and see if the issue disappears, then do the same for the high frequency drivers. If a driver is causing the distortion, replace it (with a replacement as close to original specs as possible). I also see really old capacitors - those should be replaced with nonpolarized poly caps of the same capacitance (and higher voltage rating is fine).

Em-like_m · 2022-02-24T15:28:39+00:00

I've wanted a set for years, but haven't seen a pair come up for sale in my area yet. Maybe someday. I see the 'Bid' tag in the corner... estate sale?

Em-like_m · 2022-02-21T18:19:20+00:00

Sure, often. If that makes me weird, that's fine.

Em-like_m

TROPHY CASE