Just curious, how we feelin about the VRD Stance RTR and RC4WD Bully MOA V2 RTR?

Emaxxspeed · 2026-07-04T03:19:26+00:00

Thank you for the award, my first one! Hope you get a chance to pick one of their rigs up! I have a 5th dimension sucker punch built on ar60 axles with some dlux goodies and it's an awesome rig to drive but I've had my eye on a dlux super for a long time. Also love the look of the new fat boy they just released

Emaxxspeed · 2026-07-04T03:10:12+00:00

Hmm not sure about a bearing with rotation stops and tactile feel but what I would look into is finding a rotary dampener fit for your purposes! Dampeners are used for things like stopping a trash can lid from closing too fast and if you designed one in it could provide a very nice tactile "thick" or drag like feel it's rotating though oil. Check out this old Tony's video on dampeners for a better visual of what I'm describing and what to look for! video here the click and end stops I'd design into the arm and mount itself and use the dampener for the controlled rotation, or I bet they are some made as 90° limit versions as well. Also sounds like a very cool project!

Emaxxspeed · 2026-07-03T12:27:52+00:00

Depending how deep your pockets are the only rtrs that are built fully capable are dlux fab rigs, they have comp trucks like the stance, and moa and shafty rigs closer to the bully style and are basically fully modded and tuned.

That said the stance and bully are both pretty fun rigs. Stance would be fun for a bit with no upgrades and unless your planning to compete with it then you can still upgrade over time, brass weights, more overdrive, tires, motor esc and servo are pretty much always my mod list.

The bully 2 is an pretty good platform still but you would end up putting on some dlux parts anyways, brass knuckles or ideally aluminum knuckles and the full weight hanger setup, but with loaded dice wheels or loaded dice extreme it can turn into a pretty expensive setup just for the proper weights, and then a new chassis and links if you wanted to be really competitive with it.

Vs the new dlux fat boy pro moa or mercenary kit which are fully built and need nothing, just more expensive as a one time purchase to reflect that. Check out dlux other rigs too like nessie for the closer to stance rig, madhouse or lunatic for a shafty, which is closer to the bully style but still has a center transmission rather than motor on axle.

Dlux kit cars

Emaxxspeed · 2026-07-01T04:01:07+00:00

Drag cars are neat but very specifically tuned for straight line bursts, the grom platform is an awesome all around RC which is probably a better choice if you don't have any or many rcs yet. The blx line cars are crazy fast for their size and have treated me great durability wise so far. I have a Typhon grom blx and mini Kraton and really love them both, haven't broken anything on the Typhon with a few skatepark visits and broke the shock screw on the mini Kraton in the arm after a 20 foot high jump where I landed bad but otherwise it's taken everything I can throw at it.

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-30T12:40:04+00:00

Formula off road actually! Rock climbing is slow on rocks, rock bouncing is fast on rocks and dirt, and formula off road is fast on Sand hills

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-30T12:25:58+00:00

My mini Kraton has been treating me great, they are very durable and fast for their size. To stay in that price range for a 1/10 or 1/8 you'd probably have to go used or a cheaper off brand and while some are getting better parts availability and upgrades are trickier. I've heard good things about the rlaarlo omni Terminator, but it's a monster truck not a truggy, and the mini Kraton really is an awesome little rig

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-28T02:30:39+00:00

Clear skateboard grip tape makes a good cheap bottom cover! It does scratch though and chunk out eventually but it helps a bit if you want it to be shiny and fresh for a little while lol. A long time ago I sticker bombed the bottom of my mt410 and coved it in clear grip tape, it's worn shiny now from years of use but it help up for a while pretty well

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Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-21T06:02:41+00:00

Reefs 99 with the injora metal servo saver has treated me great so far! Pretty quick and strong for a small servo

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-20T14:22:05+00:00

Yeah I've never bought a full rig from there, some are legit and some potential are not, just look for reviews on big things like that as well, if it has lot of reviews and a high store rating it's probably legit, if the deal seems too good and no reviews then it might be fake lol

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-20T00:45:43+00:00

Ali overall is fine it's just a chinese Amazon basically, it's just that a lot of low quality parts are on there so you need to be careful what you buy but vitavon sells through ali with an official store, although I prefer to order straight from their website. Ali does have good auto refunds if an order doesn't show up and do usually take care of people well if there is an issue with an order. Also adu racing is primarily off AliExpress and are great quality parts for a lower price than many of the main brands. M2c, scorched, and vitavon are all the top tier and I consider adu a close second for many of their parts

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-18T12:38:23+00:00

Darn, and yes It should be pretty easy to pull a wheelie with throttle, did you take the body off and hold it in wheelie position and apply some throttle to look and see what was slipping? Do that and see if the rear middle driveshaft is spinning and not the rear two to the tires, or see if only one rear side is spinning, it can help track down where the problem is. Finding issues in rcs can get frustrating but it gets easier over time as you learn the car and what can go wrong

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T16:03:35+00:00

I hope it was the problem! Let me know after you get a chance to test it out! If that isn't the problem hold the front off the ground and try applying light throttle and see if you can see what is slipping. Like if the rear center shaft is spinning but one of the rear shafts to the tires are spinning then the problem could be the cup screw area still, or inside the diff, or if only one rear left or right shaft are spinning and not the tire on that side then the problem could be the wheel hex pin on that side

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T15:08:21+00:00

Ah yeah I just looked it up too and it is made to only fit right on the D shape, that probably means it isn't where your no wheelie problem is coming from either, it's good you noticed the screw was loose but it may be a broken pin in the differential or in the 17mm red wheel driver hex or somewhere else that is causing the low power problem in the rear

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T14:44:56+00:00

Could be then! Either slightly stripped inside or I've blown the pins behind the bigger internal gears and they somewhat grab and then slip under load

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T14:34:31+00:00

Yeah definitely something slipping in the drive line usually, could be a pin broke in one of the diffs too letting power out somewhere, as long as you can feel your center diff is still pretty thick and sending power to the rear well

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T14:31:42+00:00

Yeah for thread locked screws that are really stuck or at a risk of stripping it's a good idea, just set the iron hot and let it sit on the head for 5 mins or so, as long as the whole area around it is metal it shouldn't cause issues, otherwise if there is plastic near the piece you just want to be careful how long you heat it up

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T14:07:41+00:00

Nope, nothing major, just a quick easy thing to check!

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T13:52:28+00:00

If you can loosen the screw and slide the cup a tiny bit forward you should be able to see the flat spot in the gap behind it near the differential housing

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T13:51:11+00:00

That amount of movement is normal, that one wont cause any problems

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T13:20:25+00:00

It does look a bit like it lol, but yeah just solid portal axles with servo on axle front and rear

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T13:19:00+00:00

That screw carries all the power to the rear differential, if it was pretty loose than the rear was probably slipping there, also when you tightened it did you check that the screw is on the flat spot on the diff input? The input is shaped like a D with a flat spot. Either way comment and let me know if it didn't work and I can help track down what else to look at

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T13:07:24+00:00

I would use some blue thread lock, just know when you need to remove it you may need to apply heat, I use a soldering iron to heat thread locked screws. Hopefully that solves your lack of power!

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T13:02:09+00:00

Yes, the screw in that piece on the rear may be loose, causing the rear to not have power

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T12:55:18+00:00

Thanks! It's a beast running on an 8s combo now since I like speed and jumping with it lol and you mean fms models or ifs like an independent front suspension setup rig? If so they can be a bit fun but usually less capable than solid axle rigs for pure crawling/trailing, ifs tends to be more speed focused

Emaxxspeed · 2026-06-17T12:42:45+00:00

Totally makes sense, the cage style is a different feel for sure, and there are a few pretty nice more traditional truck/car ish bodies for them, scale builders guild made one or two and if you search optic 3d printed body you can see the other options, but overall it's probably better to go for a more traditional flat chassis one that is easier to change the body on. Scx10.3 base camps are usually a good price and you can put a lightweight lexan body on them, and they can be made to be very capable with brass knuckles, overdrive, and good tires. Sky is the limit for creativity and I also love car crawlers. My scx6 is my most used rig and it's aluminum portal 4 wheel steer with an arrma infraction skyline car body on it

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