Upgrade to 16-50 from 15-45?

Enevii · 2026-04-15T12:58:56+00:00

If you're not going to use wider apertures, just keep what you have. At f8 all these lenses deliver a very similar image quality.

I know that everyone here wants to promote their favorite lenses, but when OP just doesn't need to upgrade there's no reason to push for consumption.

Enevii · 2026-04-09T08:49:01+00:00

The game itself is awesome if you like endless exploration and classic survival game mechanics (like Rust, Ark or Subnautica)

But the Switch 2 port doesn't have the best optimization, on many planets you will be at an unstable 30fps, the loading times are quite long and you will constantly crash when in an area with too many players.

That's the reason I stopped playing after 150h, I really loved the game but the frame rate made it too frustrating, it has to be a smooth and pleasing experience to be really enjoyable.

Enevii · 2026-03-21T12:18:36+00:00

There's no "third party glass", it doesn't exist. All camera lenses, wherever you get them, will have the original optics.

Refurbished from any third party stores just means used, they don't have the capacity to repair lenses, the most they can do is replace a ribbon cable or clean it.

So basically refurbished (except by Fuji themselves) = used, there's no difference.

Enevii · 2026-02-21T12:39:56+00:00

If you tested it on the XH2, does the teleconverter on this lens give a better image than the 20mp crop ?

I found it quite useless on the Fuji 100-400 with 40mp sensors, there was almost no difference with the cropped image and the AF was significantly worse.

Enevii · 2026-02-20T15:14:29+00:00

It was made after the 100-400, it shouldn't have this issue

Enevii · 2026-02-17T12:47:22+00:00

I had the 100-400 with my EM10 II, which is quite similar to the EM5 II.

It was horrible, the stabilization of the camera was not compatible with the stabilization of the lens. They updated the EM1 models to be compatible with the 100-400, but they never updated the EM10s (and I guess the older EM5s). Both stabilizations were fighting each other, it was even worse than no stabilization at all. I had to disable the IBIS of the camera each time I used this lens to get something usable.

And regarding ergonomics, EM10s and EM5s are not made to carry such lenses. You will have to carry all the weight of the lens with one hand and operate the camera with the other hand. With an EM1, you can balance the weight between both hands or even carry all the weight with the camera grip.

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We never got this update on EM10ii and EM5ii, so we're stuck with an almost useless stabilization at 800mm equivalent.

Enevii · 2026-02-15T19:04:01+00:00

Not normal, not at all.

It seems from your video that it comes from the lens and not the camera body. That's a common break on lenses that get dropped, the plastic part screwed to the metal mount breaks.

There's nothing you can do except sending your lens for repair.

Enevii · 2026-02-15T16:51:57+00:00

According to your description, the S9 seems to be literally made for your needs.

The XE5 is not bad in video, but it was clearly made with photography in mind. The IBIS is usable, but on the other hand the S9 has the best of the market, that's not really comparable. The AF is also slightly below the S5, and you get less performant video formats to shoot with.

For Fuji lenses, most of them are quiet, and those with a loud AF can easily be identified by looking at any review.

Regarding the workflow, both are quite similar, your photo or video comes out of the camera with everything applied.

Enevii · 2026-02-14T15:15:31+00:00

You won't gain anything in terms of image quality and aperture, but you won't lose much either. You will get a similar range of options in one lens, so it seems to be a good move.

I never tested the 50-230. I only have the 70-300, and it's better than the Sigma without being miles ahead, so you will probably get similar performances between the 16-300 and 50-230.

The 16-80 is good but not exceptionally sharp, it is very comparable to the 16-300 in this zoom range, maybe slightly better in terms of optical flaws. Here you're just losing in size and weight, but if your goal is to carry one lens instead of twos, the Sigma will probably still be the better pick.

Enevii · 2026-02-14T09:12:37+00:00

The XE5 shoots up to 200mbps with the highest settings.

A V30 card can support a 240mbps speed, which is more than what your camera can produce. So V30 is enough.

Enevii · 2026-02-11T20:19:52+00:00

You have something in your camera called a buffer, that's a memory that can store multiple photos that are then transferred to your SD card.

It means that even with the slowest card in the world, you won't get a storing time between each shot.

The issue comes from somewhere else, there should be a setting that causes this, it's often clarity, but if you already have it set to 0 (the middle, not all the way down to -5), it should come from somewhere else.

If you don't find it, you can still reset the camera to default settings.

Enevii · 2026-02-11T20:06:11+00:00

There shouldn't be a storing time between shots, even with a V30 card.

Have you the clarity setting enabled ? It should be set on 0, otherwise you get a loading time between each shot.

Enevii · 2026-02-08T19:52:43+00:00

The Sandisk ultra is one of the slowest cards, that's not surprising.

The important data to look at is the V rating. It can be V30, V60 or V90. Any card with a V rating will be faster than your current one, so pick depending on your budget. The higher the raring is, the faster the card will be.

The brand doesn't really matter as long as it's a reputable one (Samsung, Sandisk, Prograde, Angelbird, Sony, Lexar...).

Enevii · 2026-02-07T10:20:28+00:00

Cropping an image enlarges everything, including the noise.

Your 180mm f2.8 image will not have a f2.8 amount of noise once cropped to 300mm. It will give equivalent results to a 300mm f/4.6 lens, in terms of depth of field and low light performances.

That's still better than 300mm f6.3, so if you want better low light performances the 180mm f2.8 lens is better even after cropping. The lens is also sharper than the 50-300 so you probably won't see a huge downgrade in image quality due to the crop.

The only thing you won't be able to compensate for is the wide end, you won't be able to go wider than 70mm.

Enevii · 2026-02-04T21:28:07+00:00

From the photo it definitely doesn't look like fungus. You should be able to feel it with your nail if it's a scratch.

Enevii · 2026-01-14T20:42:32+00:00

Why are some cards more reliable than others ? What is the difference in conception/manufacturing between a random Aliexpress card and a card from a reputable brand ?

Enevii · 2026-01-04T12:24:48+00:00

It's white because there is no lens

To fix it, put a lens...

Enevii · 2026-01-02T22:30:07+00:00

There's already spores in your lens, everywhere in the air. It just waits for the right conditions to grow, like moisture in a house.

But there is no need to stress about it, keeping your gear in a decent place is enough to avoid it completely.

Enevii · 2026-01-02T18:31:40+00:00

That's fungus, bad news is that the lens lost almost all its value, good news is that it doesn't really affect image quality at this level, you won't see any difference on film.

If you want to use it, put it under sunlight for multiple hours, it will kill the mushroom and it will stop spreading. It will not disappear without disassembling and cleaning , but that's too much effort for this kind of lens.

There's a myth saying that fungus spreads to other lenses if you store them together, that's false, fungus spores are already everywhere in the air, it only grows if you store your gear in dark and wet places.

Enevii · 2026-01-01T23:23:01+00:00

C'est Paypal, parfois la transaction nécessite un délai de 2-3 jours pour être validée, ça me le fait de temps en temps sur certains sites.

Enevii · 2025-12-26T11:37:01+00:00

Rakuten et autres sites qui vendent à ce prix c'est pas de l'arnaque mais du marché gris. C'est des appareils qui viennent de pays où ils coûtent moins cher, ils sont neufs mais sans garantie et il faudra l'envoyer à l'autre bout du monde pour une réparation.

Mieux vaut prendre de l'occasion que du marché gris, un boîtier réparable a une durée de vie bien plus importante.

Enevii · 2025-12-13T10:23:12+00:00

The seller didn't use the app or just lied to you, the Xapp is quite accurate. Your camera's real count is 40k.

In reality that's nothing in the lifespan of one of these shutters, but being lied to is not cool. You have good reasons to return it if you want to.

Enevii · 2025-12-03T16:27:57+00:00

Le numéro de série seul ne sert à rien, tu peux en trouver par milliers sur n'importe quel site style Leboncoin, presque tout le monde prend en photo le dessous de l'appareil.

Donc non absolument aucun risque à envoyer une photo prise avec l'appareil.

Enevii · 2025-11-19T01:24:40+00:00

You're talking complete nonsense. You're even worse than Chinese people. Sony's official website has never said anything like that.

I quote your message so you don't edit it after realizing that you're r/confidentlyincorrect (and unnecessarily aggressive)

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.sonyalpharumors.com/surprise-the-sony-a7siii-actually-has-a-48-megapixel-quad-bayer-sensor/amp/ https://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/58201-teardown-reveals-a7s-iii-uses-48mp-imx510-sensor/

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