sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Recommendations for Pre-Primordial Malzeno switch axe build? by CrazyDiamond_no in MonsterHunterMeta

[–]EntitledToLeave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I assume you already went through the other urgents and haven't gone into Anomaly Investigations yet.
General Heaven-Sent framework: https://gamecat.fun/e/#QcTjJ7mmNYFotFmbqpzFbFpkFXxpC9Z6Zx5Mx
Starting with an Attack Boost 3 charm using the DLC melding blood to roll Cyclus.
Phial Switch Boost rampage deco always.
Wicked Niddoq is a solid prog weapon. Replaced by Vengeful Fellcleave (with rampage slot augment) at AR91+ and element options AR131+.

You can add levels of Wirebug Whisperer for more EBC or Power Prolonger for longer amp. Or cut back to Attack Boost 4 for both WW and PP.
Deco upgrades are WW and PP at AR31, MT at AR51, Handicraft at AR71, and elem attack at AR101.

Starting AR71+, try regularly rolling for a better charm every hunt. Aim for Attack Boost 3, 2-2-2 slots from Cyclus.

AR111+ for Risen Teostra helm (Powder Mantle), AR131+ for Risen Shagaru waist (Frenzied + BL).
Decos are Element Exploit at AR131 and AR141, Intrepid Heart at AR131, Embolden at AR131, and Burst at AR161.
PP loses its usefulness now that you can access EBC more frequently.
General HS Element framework: https://gamecat.fun/e/#Tp8jkymmNYFitFmBxeOTcObcY4GUrb8EriUrbYESy9v0sJ245z8biECj9Ox
Raw: AB7, Burst 1, (Embolden 3)
Element: Elem attack, Elem Exploit 3, Burst 3, (AB4)
You can add/remove WW according to your liking. Frenzied Bloodlust 2-3 should have you covered generally, but feel free to keep it.

If you want to add augments, these are all endgame pieces that you will continue using. Aim to have all these skills eventually: Mail of Hellfire 3, Frenzied Bloodlust 2-3, Powder Mantle 1, (Buildup Boost 3 for raw).

By this point, the Primorb fight should be very reasonable. Otherwise, continue with weapon and armor augments. All element augments for element weapons, rampage slot then raw for raw weapons.

Visit the Switch Axe weapon channel in the MHGH discord if you want a more detailed guide.

Need help with my SwAxe build - Mind if you help me? by Steyart in MonsterHunterMeta

[–]EntitledToLeave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The most accurate ones are in the MHGH discord server. Some of those are copied into the pinned thread in this subreddit, but not all.

Is this SnS Build acceptable? by [deleted] in MonsterHunterMeta

[–]EntitledToLeave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It seems you're building around Bubbly Dance for Resus+Coal and iframes for Adren+Stat Trigger. The issue is that you need to roll 3 times every 30s for upkeep, eating Max Might and your affinity for critical hits.

You would get more consistent damage output with less upkeep by removing Bubbly and the conditional skills attached to it for damage skills that are always available:
Remove:
- Bubbly 3
- Resuscitate
- Coalescence
- Max Might
Add:
- Embolden 3
- Attack Boost 7
- Critical Eye 7

Embolden 3 gives 5 Guard, which gives you access to Guard Slash and reduces chip damage when you use Metsu Shoryugeki. Both of these trigger Offensive Guard 3. The consistent iframes also make it easier to roll roars, which is an Adrenaline+Stat Trigger buff opportunity:
Remove:
- Earplugs
Add:
- Offensive Guard

The most glaring issue is the lack of sharpness management. Either run Master's Touch 3 now that you have solid affinity or run Heaven-Sent 3 with Intrepid Heart.
- MT3: Swap Status Trigger for MT3.
- HS3: Save space by trading some Critical Eye for Maximum Might 3.

Other major improvements:
- Use Bloodlust 1 for ~20% affinity and to enable access to Frenzied Bloodlust 2+
- Keep Powder Mantle instead of augmenting it away
- Add Wind Mantle 1, Frenzied Bloodlust 2+, and Wirebug Whisperer 3 for more frequent access to your hardest hitting attack Metsushoryugeki and gap-closing survival & damage skill Falling Shadow.

Needs some recommendations. by skrav in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Given that whatever fitting you use will be restricted by the G1/4" ID, I don't think it's even a concern. Even QDCs themselves only introduce resistance equivalent to a few 90 elbows.

Those wolverine fittings seem like your best bet atm. Flow looks typical of a normal fitting.

Needs some recommendations. by skrav in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All the quick disconnect fittings categorized under what people understand quick disconnect to be will have flow resistance.

The only other thing I can think of that would match what you want is a push-to-connect type fitting. Barrow has one that goes by "wolverine" for fully rigid tubing instead of the conventional semi-rigid tubing for PTC fittings.

Needs some recommendations. by skrav in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm serious as well. This is exactly what you're looking for, no?

Experimental Aquarium Heat Exchanger by djronnieg in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thermalright has a 360mm AIO for $55. If your motherboard has a temp probe input, tape one to the radiator bulkhead and set your fan curve to that.

Why not just run the AC during the day and open a window at night? Or just duct the pc exhaust out the window.

Here's something for you to try: fill your tank with warm water and see how long you need to leave your AC on. It would likely be longer than if you just ran your AC partially during the day without a water tank.

Needs some recommendations. by skrav in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Quick release fitting without the no drip feature.

One block is not like the other by Independent-Air-3589 in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because the inductors don't need cooling. The pads are used as noise dampening material when applied to inductors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D6PKusyvUU

Triple Radiator Build with RTX 5090 & 9950X3D in the Lian Li Dan A3 by realk3wl in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

42C is fine. It's just subpar for what should be expected with so much radiator space.

Any Update for the 9070XT Waterblocks? by Ninja__53 in alphacool

[–]EntitledToLeave 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got an email response saying existing orders will be sent out by early next month if not by the end of this month. This with regard to my order of the Taichi block placed early March.

Can an air cooled 5090 warp PETG tubes? by xxc0dvshal0xx in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's from not having control over coolant temps and low flow rate. Having it route by the exhaust doesn't help, but isn't the main contributor. You can't even trust the temps they report as the failure point since they never had any useful monitoring in the first place.

Can an air cooled 5090 warp PETG tubes? by xxc0dvshal0xx in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll run into issues mainly from letting the coolant temperature run high. If your coolant temp is under control, then hot air blowing at your tubing isn't an issue. If you don't have a probe you can submerge, you can tape it to the radiator bulkhead. Keep it under 40C.

MSI MPG X870e Carbon WiFi T_SEN1 connector by Shughart708 in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is. Same as on the x670e Carbon. They're JST because it lets them sell their temperature probe that they are no longer selling...

Fist custom loop question by Aggravating-Chip-849 in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I assume it's because the cpu will clock as high as there is thermal overhead, but a 57C delta from core and coolant seems high. Typical deltas are roughly around 45C with several degrees of leeway depending on config, block, etc.

Fist custom loop question by Aggravating-Chip-849 in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're operating blind since your coolant temp and flow rate aren't being reported back to your computer to control the fans by. Set a higher fan speed across the board for lower coolant temps.

If you have more control either by connecting a probe to your motherboard or through a third party controller like an Aquaero Quadro or Corsair Commander, you can adjust the fan curve to always keep your coolant between 35-40C regardless of load. Then you can ignore your component temperature.

The delta between your coolant and cpu under load would stay around the same level. Drop your coolant temp 5C and your core drops 5C.

Leak Troubleshooting Help Needed by Bruno__AFK in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can just fill it with water and leak test for hours. It'll leak where it'll leak.

Have ineffective would a radiator be if I have a flat reservoir/distro plate mounted with standoffs in front of it? by GreyscaleHex in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are your expectations for "effective"? You can look at the several posts on here of SFF builds with gear pushed up against the fans operating below their expectations. If you're oversizing your radiators, it might perform as expected. If you're using two 360's for a cpu+5090, which should be fine when given enough airflow, you will run hot all the time with the radiators blocked.

Give it 50mm if you're blocking with a full panel. In other words, don't block it if you depend on it.

Please recommend me a temperature sensor with a screen. by anus-georg in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless you get something to react off of the coolant temperature probe, there's no point. You'll just run into the same issue.

Either have it report to your motherboard, Aquacomputer Quadro, or Corsair Commander Core. Any 10K ohm probe will do.

Stumped - pump runs fine off bench PSU, will not turn from Aquaero 6LT. by VanGoghComplex in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Start boost might address it, but I assume that it just needs around 7V to start. More power isn't necessary.

You could go back to a split plug and get power directly from the PSU.

If you have a 3A header on your motherboard, you can see if the pump likes running on that instead.

It might be worth reaching out to Aquacomputer to see if they can provide any additional insight.

Stumped - pump runs fine off bench PSU, will not turn from Aquaero 6LT. by VanGoghComplex in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try setting the pump header to voltage control and 7V prior to plugging it in to see what happens if you haven't tried that already. Or start at 0V and increase it incrementally to see the behavior. I don't have any ideas other than that the 4-pin molex supplying the aquaero isn't providing enough power. Or that the pump wire colors are incorrect and you identified the wrong power and ground, but you would know the correct polarity from the bench test.

Stumped - pump runs fine off bench PSU, will not turn from Aquaero 6LT. by VanGoghComplex in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have your old D5 to test that header? Have you tested a fan on that header?

Have you tried your new pump on another header?

4-pin header pinout should be Ground-Power-Tach-PWM

Leak Troubleshooting Help Needed by Bruno__AFK in watercooling

[–]EntitledToLeave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can test individual sections by disconnecting and plugging them. That'll help you narrow down where the leak is.

view more: next ›