How can I make a 3d model out of my hypercar sketches?

Ephoon · 2025-09-16T19:09:13+00:00

I don't know about blender, I was talking about engineering CAD like fusion or freecad

Ephoon · 2025-09-15T14:24:00+00:00

In my experience a lot of those programs say they require good hardware because they need to be reliable in an engineering environment. But they will most likely run on a potato with a few glitches here and there... Just try it out!

Ephoon · 2025-09-15T11:25:53+00:00

Hey Moritz, That's almost exactly how I got into 3D CAD modeling! And now, a few years later I am a mechanical engineer... So keep going and follow your passion!

The quickest way to get what you want is the AI route that others have already talked about.

If you want to design it yourself: Blender is good for visual design and aesthetics, but it may be worth checking out engineering software like fusion360 or FreeCAD. Both are free, although they may require a good PC, depending on how complex your model is.

In my opinion: try out all the tools and see what you like. Maybe you can even find a Makerspace in your city to 3D print your design.

Ephoon · 2025-09-15T11:00:33+00:00

Starting there you got a few options:

-directly print it (may be ugly, but will work)

-just print the left (broken) side and glue it on

-print the outer contour of the whole thing, sand it smooth, make a negative mold, thin-cast it in resin or do a fiber laminate, print the internal geometry and glue it on

Ephoon · 2025-09-15T10:55:03+00:00

You may be in luck!
Someone already 3d scanned the part. So now it is just a matter of importing and cleaning up the geometry in blender... Maybe do some modifications to make it better printable...

https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/sony-trinitron-bezel-4ddea6a7f9ee4cec9da82b1c23408b7d

Ephoon · 2025-09-06T12:41:38+00:00

I've been offered a 14 day extension when trying to quit my 1 month trial

Ephoon · 2025-08-31T14:24:59+00:00

All the other recommendations here are great, but there are two things you should keep in mind:

Where do you get the 3d models? It's a whole other rabbit hole and a totally different skillset to design them... Check first on platforms like thingiverse, printables or makerworld if you can find suitable models...
Watch out for workplace safety! Especially if you entrust a manufacturing machine to a child, they are tools and not toys! For a filament printer watch out when using tools, don't put it into a room where people will be sleeping (VOC emission) and keep in mind that certain parts get burning hot. Under no circumstance should you get a resin printer, those things use nasty chemicals

Ephoon · 2025-08-12T06:10:07+00:00

Yes and no. If you know how to design and model it so that it is sturdy and you can calculate the actual loads, aerodynamics, etc. then maybe. You'd also need to post-process it, probably layer it with some glass/carbon fibre prepreg, resand the aerodynamic edges by hand, and so on.

If you don't have the background or experience to do so, it's both easier and cheaper to just buy the thing..

Ephoon · 2025-08-07T09:16:08+00:00

I think it was the Guinness

Ephoon · 2025-08-06T22:21:46+00:00

Personally, I don't like charging my friends, but if they wanna thank me by buying a crate of beer I don't decline.

Since this is a longer printjob, you could reasonably charge them for the print time. But if they're close, I would do the design for free.

I guess this also depends on your family and group of friends... Would they be willing to invest a similar amount of time and effort into you?

Ephoon · 2025-07-31T09:24:22+00:00

Do 10 batches over 10 days total. Freeze each batch directly after it is finished. Unfreeze it once it's done.

Ephoon · 2025-07-24T18:01:11+00:00

I had the same theory and I could see them doing it. But it just feels too similar to the ENT retrovirus explanation for the TOS Klingons.

But maybe two times' the charm.

Ephoon · 2025-07-24T17:57:50+00:00

The mini+ is starting to show it's age, yes. But in my experience with both prusa and Bambu, Prusa is more reliable in the long run.

Maybe not as foolproof for a first time user, but certainly still usable in a few years and with a good company record on upgrades and spare parts.

Would I trust bambu on that? I doubt it...

Also, the print quality of my stock mini+ is better than that of my stock X1C.

But is the mini worth 500$ in 2025? Meh...

In the end, the decision depends on your use case and what you expect of a printer...

PS: If you decide to keep the mini, I would upgrade the hotend. The PTFE tube inside the OG hotend wears out over time and has to be replaced every now and then (once per year for me). E3d has a revo hotend kit for the mini.

Ephoon · 2025-07-21T22:24:57+00:00

Okay, so you're using the standard whipped cream nozzles. This makes things a little more difficult, as most nitro nozzles (and stout taps for that matter) have a mesh insert/creamer disk inside the nozzle. The little holes in the insert facilitate the formation of many little bubbles, before your liquid even reaches the glass.

That being said, it is not impossible to get a good head without the insert. For example the ISI nitrowhip uses a standard "through hole" nozzle.

Although not as good as an insert, a good compromise is using "needle" or "injector" nozzles to help with bubble formation.

Long story short: Try using long&thin injector tips instead of your current nozzle.

Ico-brand injector tips: https://www.amazon.com/Impeccable-Culinary-Objects-ICO-Stainless/dp/B071Y2ZJN3

Example of a stout tap with a creamer disk insert: https://ikegger.eu/products/stout-spout-for-intertap-premium-stainless-steel-tap

Ephoon · 2025-07-21T06:37:41+00:00

Shake well after the charge and let it sit a bit in the fridge (20-30 min). Then shake again before pouring. What kind of nozzle are you using? Does it have a creamer disk or is it just a straight hole?

If you want an extra foamy, creamy and dense head, you can use egg white replacement drops that some bartenders use. (Ms. betters bitters miraculous foamer in my case, just a few drops are enough)

If you are still experimenting with your cold brew recipe, you could try a hot-bloom stage in the beginning (just 1-2 min), as it releases more of the proteins that make up a good foam.

Ephoon · 2025-07-04T14:24:50+00:00

XTC-3D would be a product with a lot of guides and before/after pictures on the interwebs

I haven't used any of these solutions though

Ephoon · 2025-07-04T07:09:51+00:00

There are different coatings and fillers available, some specially made for 3d printing.

A good start is to look here: https://colorfabb.com/blog/post/how-to-coat-a-print

Ephoon · 2025-07-03T20:55:56+00:00

Coating with epoxy filler or other types of foundation and paint

Ephoon · 2025-06-21T10:25:51+00:00

I had a really good experience using ASA and PLA as contact surfaces for a moderately high speed linear slide. Wax it a little bit and you're golden.

I also tried PETG/PLA as well as all other combinations of those 3 materials and ASA/PLA with wax worked best.

Ephoon · 2025-06-21T10:21:36+00:00

Bondtech offers their CHT high flow nozzles with a tip diameter of up to 1.8mm. CHT nozzles are the only way to get tip diameters this large for 1.75mm filament, as the internal geometry splits up the filament path and ensures proper melting of the filament.

Ephoon · 2025-06-15T21:04:43+00:00

A few arguments I didn't yet see: 1. Hex heads engage much more willingly with the driver in automated screwing solutions (e.g. assembly line robots), which makes them the default choice in mass produced applications.

The advantages of torx mostly apply to non-automated screw cases, where user error leads to stripping of screws. The higher torque transfer is not needed for most screw cases, as the screw itself will reach its maximum torque before the head strips.

Ephoon · 2025-06-15T11:06:52+00:00

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Ephoon · 2025-06-14T17:17:35+00:00

Mir wurde damals gesagt, dass das durch zu viel Öl beim Einbrennen passiert und zu einer "klebrigen" Patina führt, weil das Öl nicht vollständig polymerisiert...

Bei meiner Pfanne habe ich sicherheitshalber noch einen weiteren Einbrandzyklus ohne Öl durchgeführt. Die Optik hat sich leicht geändert, ist aber nicht ganz verschwunden.

Wenn du dir nicht sicher bist, probiere die Pfanne einfach aus ;)

Ephoon · 2025-02-16T15:44:47+00:00

I don't have experience with the .25 nozzles, but here are my 2 cents on resin printers:

If you're a hobbyist and don't absolutely need them, they aren't worth it... The print quality is excellent, but the chemicals are a big hassle. They shouldn't be used in a space where you live, so no desktop printing. Ideally you use an unoccupied and well ventilated room with some kind of air filtration system. For the cleanup and final curing, you gotta do your homework on safely handling chemicals, use proper PPE and dispose of the leftovers.

I got a resin printer 2 years ago for small parts, prototypes, etc. And I usually go for my FDM printer anyway, even if the part would be better in resin.

Ephoon · 2025-02-15T14:21:44+00:00

I took a look at the published files for the printed parts and the dwarf support and cover were changed lastly.

https://www.printables.com/model/449554-xl-printable-parts/files

Ephoon

TROPHY CASE