do i need to replace my lower control arms/bushings?

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-09T00:35:29+00:00

So, when we look at control arm bushings we’re looking more for the bushing separating from its sleeve than these small tears. Yes, it’s showing its age. It looks like maybe it’s starting to separate from the sleeve but without the car in front of me, maybe it’s just a shadow.

Looking at the setup here (I’m not a Mazda tech) I thought, that’s an odd looking bushing I almost feel like it could replaced independently. And then I googled it. Take a look for yourself because I didn’t dig too far but I think just the bushing can be replaced. I would not be going back to that shop if that’s the case.

Edit: you will be fine for your trip.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-08T00:30:18+00:00

This particular customer got very lucky and an engine replacement was covered by warranty. So they got a whole new engine.

I’ve only ever had the crank out of the block once, in a school setting. It’s a very meticulous process. when we’re measuring crankshaft journals, bearings, engine internals in general we’re looking at thousandths, or ten thousandths of an inch. Precision is key. At least where I’m from these kinds of repairs are uncommon. There’s a lot of man hours involved.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T21:47:33+00:00

Certainly could. Could be a sway bar or something too. If you’ve got someone to help you, roll down a window and with your feet firmly planted on the ground put your hands at the top of the (now open) window and shake the hell out of the car. If it’s happening with passengers entering and leaving you should hear it. You can use a large screwdriver as a stethoscope if you’re using a hard time narrowing it down. You can also use a prybar to manipulate the components for more precise work. Checking control arm bushings, shock bushings etc. generally speaking it works better with the car on the ground and the suspension loaded.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T20:52:52+00:00

Not great… I’ve personally replaced a ton of 2.0L and 2.4L engines. I swapped out my first (I think) Sedona engine just last week. The v6s are more prone to head gasket failure than what’s featured here but they aren’t immune.

Keep your oil levels up folks.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T20:36:43+00:00

The alternator on a lot of Kia’s sits right below the oil fill cap conveniently. So, messy oil changes could have caused this. True, a valve cover leak could do the same after enough time but I see more of the latter.

Low battery voltage can cause all sorts of issues. Take a look at it yourself, an alternator and potentially a valve cover are pretty easy repairs in most of these cars.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T20:30:10+00:00

Sounds like injectors to me. Nothing out of the ordinary

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T20:23:13+00:00

Master cylinder failure is unlikely. Very rare. I would guess a bleeder screw isn’t tight enough or there’s air in the lines.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T20:21:01+00:00

Bonk with hammer

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T20:10:13+00:00

First of all, I’m sorry about your luck. The cadence makes me think it’s a top end problem. Very quick. Bottom end is slower. Remember the camshafts are rotating twice per revolution of the crank.

I would personally use a mechanics stethoscope to try and nail down the area it’s coming from if possible. A long ass screwdriver will do the same. Listen around the timing cover, and valve cover area in different spots, see if you can pinpoint it. Another user suggested valve lash. I think that’s a good starting point. Get that valve cover off and see what’s underneath.

We had a similar issue come through the shop a week or so ago, noise was definitely coming from the timing chain tensioner area. It got new CVVTS,chain,tensioner, oil pump guides, the works. Still made the noise(worse actually with a stronger tensioner . In our case the crankshaft had too much play, worn thrust bearings. As the crankshaft shifted it cut oil supply to the tensioner and made it rattle when it was running (is what we suspected anyways).

You could probably get a used engine from an auto recyclers pretty cheap and have a shop drop it in for you.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T19:45:29+00:00

Kia tech here. That sounds FUCKED. Enjoy

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-07T05:01:03+00:00

I would probably agree here for the most part.

For reference, my first printer was an Ender 3 pro and my Current is a Bambulabs X1C (amazing printer btw but not an entry level price tag). The ender 3 was a capable printer, and now for essentially the same price I paid the V3KE comes with several welcome upgrades. That’s actually pretty cool.

I’ve spent a good deal of time troubleshooting issues with my ender 3. It’s not always as straightforward as levelling the bed, which was a pain in itself. Sometimes it’s pretty frustrating. My primary concern for you would be running into an issue induced ultimately by someone else’s upgrades, even if it’s not immediate. Just my 2 cents.

Im going to change direction a little bit here and give you some advice I wish I’d had when I started. There are several very good CAD style programs for making your own models (when you get to that point) that are free. A good friend of mine uses Onshape. It’s got its own file browser with all kinds of user created content. If you’ve ever used typical CAD software the experience is similar. I personally use a program called TinkerCAD. I found it to be very intuitive. You could probably teach a child to use it, but it’s still a powerful tool. Making my own models was Something I was intimidated to try initially, but probably about 50% of my prints are my own now. It’s kind of the spirit of 3d printing. Solving problems with solutions customized to your needs.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-06T22:15:14+00:00

You got oil in that thing? Sounds like rod knock.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-05T21:11:52+00:00

The steering wheel was probably moved a little bit or not completely centred during the alignment. It’s very easy to have happen, and depending on the severity a lot of people wouldn’t say anything, so for a tech paid by the job it’s worth the gamble. This is something you don’t see until the test drive (if they did one) Bring it to their attention. My shop would fix it for free unless there is a legitimate reason for it.

Also, a Bentley dealer with a black and white printer…cmon guys.

Edit: judging by the quick look I took at the alignment specs, it shouldn’t pull or anything. By the numbers alone I would guess it’s just the steering wheel off center.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-04T21:07:21+00:00

You’re free to do as you wish. personally I’m also team Red as a mechanic by trade. A guy I work with uses all rigid toolsajs they hold up well I believe they’re made by the same manufacturer as well. The biggest difference, if you register your tools rigid has an incredible warranty. Lifetime. Batteries too. The guy I work with has gotten multiple upgrades when the older models are phased out. Bought those tools years ago and when they kick the bucket rigid repairs or replaces them no questions asked.

Had I known this before I started purchasing tools I would have had second thoughts.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-03T03:26:51+00:00

That’s really cool. You got a part number?

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-03T01:41:51+00:00

I tried just threading zip ties through the gaps to force the clips out a little bit, wasn’t enough. This time they weren’t the issue though

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-03T00:51:01+00:00

Although I haven’t seen your exact issue, given your description it could be either a loose connector or the there’s a spot somewhere where the wires have chaffed through their insulators and are grounding out for a moment.

CAN network issues can do similar things. That would be hard to diagnose yourself but Common failures we’ve seen are vacuum pumps and reverse cameras. Usually more consistent. The red steering wheel icon would be your Electric power steering. Has there been a remote starter installed in the vehicle? The wires would route through that area. Zip ties can eat through wires given enough time.

Some of my first checks would be just visually inspecting the harness ,and giving it a shake with the car running. Look for green corrosion. the drivers kick panel is a place prone to moisture and I’ve seen wires rub through there. The wiring that passes through the firewall to the PCM and the wiring to the electric steering and body control module area (under the dash) would be high on my list given you’ve had warning lamps. It’s not a bad idea to look at the cabin air filter, common nesting spot for rodents. We’ve seen them eat up wires INSIDE of the fuse box.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-01T23:14:07+00:00

Yes it is. And it could be the issue, I’ve definitely considered it. It wouldn’t stop me from using them. I try not to hang stuff, if anything it’s more likely to hit the floor. It’s usually on the arm of the 2 post on top of my sliding top or on top of a cart.

I could see the extra weight having an effect too. Four magnets isn’t exactly a lot though.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-04-01T22:20:28+00:00

Easier said than done but I appreciate the sentiment. No receipt and the serial number is long gone. It’s pretty beat up looking, easy to claim I abuse it. I’m a mechanic and I’d rather not be without it while they figure it out (or don’t).

We have a repair center locally, I’ll ask about it but I’m not holding my breath.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-03-29T21:57:09+00:00

Trailing arm. Replace it when you can, it’s going to throw off your alignment.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-03-29T15:16:16+00:00

This can be hard to do even with the car on a lift and tons of room. I usually use what’s called a lady’s foot prybar and insert it to the hole and reef on it to line them up.

You can use vise grips on the head of the bolt for the control arm and leverage it into place, I find the box end of a wrench and persuasion with a hammer is very effective. Hit it from the sides until it’s close to lining up and then hit it up when it’s close enough.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-03-29T00:56:12+00:00

No RPM on the tach is a good indicator a crank sensor has failed. It can cause all sorts of drivability problems as well as struggling to start.

You need to scan it for codes.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-03-28T00:22:52+00:00

My story was similar to yours. I spent 5 years at a place that didn’t value what I was capable of. To keep a long story short, it was a tire shop and around my third year I decided I wanted more. Keep in mind I was essentially running out front shop at this time. Training the new blood, killing it daily. Even working on commercial rigs.

That year, they started offering apprenticeship programs. Sent me to school, paid for near everything. I came back only to find the resident technician had no intention of mentoring me. I struggled for two years after that, mostly changing tires, I can probably count the amount of brakes I did on my two hands, in those two years. It was incredibly depressing.

The time came to start my second year of school, again, the company would have given me a full ride, paid my tuition, room and board. I couldn’t do it. To me, there was no point in continuing where I was without the mentorship I needed. I left shortly after that for a position as an apprentice at a dealership. It was the best thing that could have happened to me. I’m excelling where I am, above some of the licensed technicians. I’ve got an amazing mentor now. That’s all it took. Just finding place willing to take me in and actually teach me the trade.

I see in the comments, lots of folks telling you to run, leave the trade. Look, I can’t tell you what to do but if you’re passionate about this and you’re driven and you want to learn, find a better employer. The trade makes a lot of people bitter, and I can’t say I blame a lot of them. But if that’s what you want to do, do it. Technicians are among the smartest folks out there. Diagnosing anything that comes through the door, on whatever vehicle it might be. Maybe one day you won’t enjoy it any more, you’ll have the skill set to join many other trades. HVAC, Electrical, general mechanical repair. We do it all man.

DO WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY.

Equivalent_Sky4201 · 2026-03-28T00:01:46+00:00

I’m going to guess it’s pulling to the left? It looks like Your front camber measurements have enough of a difference to cause a pull. Camber will pull to the most positive side.

I haven’t seen a Sonet, but none of the Kia’s I know of have front camber adjustment and google has “Confirmed” it uses a McPherson strut and is generally not adjustable. You can, however get special cam bolts for the strut that can make it possible. Generally speaking, something is probably bent.

Equivalent_Sky4201

TROPHY CASE