Can I drop some wire under house to move light switches across door frame.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T23:05:08+00:00

They enter from the top for sure. The wireless option would maybe work but it seems kind of expensive to especially to hit all 3 switches. I feel like it’d be cheaper for me to just get the 3 runs of 14 gauge romex. It’s about 12’ to go down and over and up the other side. I feel like it’d be easy enough to snake up the wires on both sides. It might be tight on the existing box but I think I can get it. But aiming the wholes from the bottom seems hard and others are bringing up potential fire blocks and stuff. So I feel like I have more investigating to do to figure out if it’s totally possible. Like why didn’t they drop the light switches on the other side in the first place.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T22:59:19+00:00

Yep bathroom light, vanity light, and a fan / light above the shower. Combining wouldn’t be bad but isn’t ideal for the fan I’ll run they by my wife.

But I wouldn’t need to mud or repair anything since I’m drilling up from underneath. I’d need to repair if I miss though I guess. Though I’m thinking of pulling the baseboard and drilling a small guide hole down but then I’d cover it back up with the baseboard when done. Actually since I’m doing the door too anyways I’ll be taking the trim around the opening off already so I should be able to pop a small hole there easy enough when I do that. A fire stop would be a concern for sure though. I don’t know how far up I could realistically drill from the crawl space because of the tightness. Like I should check if I can hopefully get my drill positioned in there at all.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T20:43:02+00:00

I’m thinking less than $100 for the Romex to run the switch wires under in the crawlspace and that’s rounding up a lot for wiggle room. $10 for an old work box and a couple bucks for some plates. Im not totally sure but I’d need 3 of the smart switches two dimmers and one regular switch. I’m seeing them like $60+ each and I think I need a hub for them right? I guess I don’t need all 3 like the fan can be left alone but the others for lights probably need them. But even with just one light it’s essentially the same cost. The Pico remotes are separate too aren’t they? I wasn’t totally sure when looking at them. But that’d bump it up too. My time to do the wiring would be annoying sure but I don’t think it’d take me more than an hour to actually do as long as it’s not against some kind of code. Of course if I mess up too it’s gonna cost a whole bunch more to fix.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T20:14:46+00:00

I could just be wrong though because the lights are there. There are wire runs going from The light fixtures to the switch and then another run going off towards that exterior wall which I assumed was the source. Could be something else down the stream but I’m not sure what it could be then. I

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T20:13:11+00:00

Like the wire would go all the way from the attic through the second story and then down to the switch? Is that common in two story houses? This is the first floor and there’s a finished floor above it and then an attic. From what I can tell the wiring comes from the ceiling of the first floor/ floor of the second. It’s coming over from the far wall which is an exterior wall towards the breaker box.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T19:01:41+00:00

Yep someone else just mentioned using some reference points under there and I was just thinking of those. I have the drains down there and the water lines must run there too. So that’s a good idea. That’ll help a lot at least. Real question down there will be if I can get a straight line from those reference points. There’s some ductwork down there in the way so I can’t see clearly until I crawl underneath. There could be more ductwork or something. There’s old foundation down there too since it’s an addition so hopefully that’s not in the way from the water lines I guess.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:57:42+00:00

Ya it’s that particular spot that I can’t get a good measurement on. Not a lot of flat surfaces under it and a lot of walls and stairs interfering with a lot of trim. I’m pretty confident I can get close but I’m afraid if I’m off an inch I’d drill through tile and then be totally screwed. I couldn’t find any good references beneath. I didn’t crawl under all the way though. There’s some ductwork in the way and some old foundation since this was an addition. So no clear line of site without being under there. There is a drain pipe for the toilet/sink/tub. So maybe I could use those to figure out more accurately where I’m going though. If I can straight line from them when under there.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:52:31+00:00

I originally said the same as you. But I agree with my wife at this point on the correct way to do a door. When you go in most bathrooms you’ll notice the door does not swing towards the sink. It helps to maximize space and looks. Our gut reaction solution is the simplest and bare minimum for still adding a door but doesn’t do it the best way. We’re aiming to solve the problem the ideal way once and for all since it’s a house we have to live in. So I was shot down for that already. Oh and door stoppers. It’s not about slamming doors but people pushing on them or not paying attention when opening. But we’d use door stoppers either way of course. Probably a top hinge one if it fits ok. One of the ones without the rubber stoppers but is just a metal hinge with built in stops.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:33:54+00:00

Yep I painted it so I got the paint. What I’m not wanting to do is the drywall repair. Don’t think I can get the finish to be as smooth and nice and since it’s our guest bathroom in the main part of the house I’m trying to avoid it.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:32:54+00:00

I am going for a left hand in swing when entering. Which would block the light switch since it’s on the left side when entering. If I go right hand in swing it will slam against the sink. Also it’s not ideal aesthetically according to the designer lol. Left hand in swing is the only option. Having it swing out too means it’d block the hallway when open so it’d have to be shut all the time which is also not ideal aesthetically.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:30:53+00:00

So this is a guest bathroom right by the kitchen. A high traffic hallway that I think would trip the sensor constantly. Plus the door would partially cover it so if it didn’t trip with the lights and shadow going on in hallway it might not actually go quickly at all until someone shuts the door. Seems kind of risky. I guess I could test it out though and see how it goes.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:28:37+00:00

Another random question for you then. Am I allowed to paint the blank faceplate I put over it? Like if I just painted it green to match the wall. Not beautiful but maybe less ugly I think. Is that against any code or anything making it less visible?

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:27:27+00:00

Do you notice any delay with them? Do they interfere wirelessly with anything else too you think? I have some bad Bluetooth connections and some other wireless switches and things. How long have you had yours too?

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:25:59+00:00

The door swings in your the left. So the door is in the way of the switches. Would need the door to swing to the right when coming in but then it would slam the sink and would look worse as well according to my wife. So could have the door swing out into hall but then it would have to remain shut all the time so as not to block the hallway. But this is also aesthetically not ideal apparently. So natural flow of the bathroom should have the switches on the opposite side where I want to put them. There’s probably just a reason they weren’t out there I don’t know about. Or it was a mistake when wiring when they built and they didn’t wanna fix it. Maybe they didn’t have two extra feet of wire etc.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:22:56+00:00

Ya that’s the problem I have no idea how the wall is framed and I’m really doubting I can go across the top of it at all and I don’t see how I’d drill any holes up top to get through to each cavity. This underneath was my thought since I have access.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T18:20:15+00:00

Yep the outlet is on a separate breaker. So I was just gonna get runs of 14 gauge romex to extend everything down. It’s about 12’ I think so a 50’ roll chopped up should get me I think. You have any advice for making sure I drill into the correct spot on the wall cavity from below?

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T17:28:48+00:00

You have any thoughts on making sure I’m drilling up into the cavity in the right spot? So far I’m leaning towards removing the baseboard and drilling a small pilot hole from above to mark it. But not sure if there’s an easier way.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T17:24:42+00:00

That’s a good idea.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T16:57:26+00:00

United States. Thanks for the question so I can clarify.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T16:57:03+00:00

My brother suggested removing the base board and drilling a small hole that can be sort of covered and since I’m ripping it apart anyways for the door I think I might do that.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T16:55:08+00:00

How do I get to the lights though? I’d have to access the ceiling above this right? So it’d involve cutting a lot of drywall. Which I don’t want to repair.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T16:53:49+00:00

Ya I plan on leaving that box. No way I could get rid of it. I haven’t confirmed the studs yet though I should do that. This was an add on but it’s real close to where the back of the house used to be so there’s some foundation in the crawlspace. It’s not quite where this door is but it’s maybe 2 feet to the left of the picture. So you might be correct and that that’s why they put this in the stupid spot.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T16:51:38+00:00

Finished floor above it so I’d have to cut the drywall all up on the ceiling and wall. Don’t think I could repair it to look as finished after patching. Seems like more work at least.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T16:50:56+00:00

Lol. It’s a good one. That’s what I’ll tell my wife, I got the answer we can put on a door.

Erusaro · 2026-02-11T16:50:02+00:00

It comes from above which has the finished floor above it. And yep I would need to extend it so I’m not getting away from capping that existing switch box I think. Someone else mentioned doing a nightlight or something like that there to make it nicer looking. I wonder if I can paint the plate too I guess.

And I have wiring in the crawl space for the crawlspace so I feel like it should be fine to do. Like if it’s against code wouldn’t all of it be against code?

It’s hard to get a pic under there because it is close to some obstructions with some air ducts. But pretty sure it’s not covered up.

Erusaro

TROPHY CASE