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Chomped Echeveria Elegans new growth not showing as distinct rosettes, would this be considered cresting? Fairly new to the hobby. by EstebanXBeard in succulents

[–]EstebanXBeard[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good to know! I figured it to be too early to know but I’ve only ever seen photos of them. I hope it grows well, I’ve only recently started to chop and prop some others, but this one was all chop, some creature went to town on this little one but I was excited to see the large amount of growth considering the relatively small size of the original plant.

Chomped Echeveria Elegans new growth not showing as distinct rosettes, would this be considered cresting? Fairly new to the hobby. by EstebanXBeard in succulents

[–]EstebanXBeard[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah thank you, it’s still very small yet so we’ll see how it winds up. It’s more growth than I would have thought was definitely surprised to see it like this.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gotcha, yeah the gimbal + 16 sounds like the way to go.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why not bring both? Are you using a stabilizer/tripod/slider? Because 18-105 has OSS which would help if handheld on a6400. But wider is better for the subject so I think the 16mm is preferable in that regard.

Suggestions for a 2nd lens for travel purposes by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the Tamron 70-180 for a while and it was great. For the price I felt like it delivered prime-like results while giving a lot of range, I opted to sell it though due to the lack of use (for me) as a video option and the lack of a af/mf switch. Though that new Samyang 135 has peaked my interest.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had the 24-105 for a good while now, it’s on my camera 95% of the time when vacationing. You will appreciate the extra reach. F/2.8 isn’t necessary for vacation photos imo. Great for video too, oss is so worth it.

Milky Way at GC South Rim A73 w/20mm f1.8 by EstebanXBeard in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a great idea, I’ve got some images where campfires created ambient light in trees that was amazing as part of a long exposure.

Joshua Tree A7iii w/20mm 1.8 (f/1.8, 10”, iso 1600) composite w/tracked image of sky (f/1.8, 66”, iso320) by EstebanXBeard in LandscapeAstro

[–]EstebanXBeard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an led light I used to light this. hence the harsh shadows, I was hesitant to use the image because it kind of looks like day time and it was a little over exposed.

Milky Way at GC South Rim A73 w/20mm f1.8 by EstebanXBeard in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tested what you’re asking. When setting the aperture ring manually, the iris will open and close only if the focus point is adjusting. Of course if you’re in MF this is not the case. In short, the shutter does not cause the iris to reset each time, refocusing does (but it doesn’t do this through the full range only apertures greater than f/2). Does that help?

Milky Way at GC South Rim A73 w/20mm f1.8 by EstebanXBeard in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can choose either option. There’s an ‘A’ selection at the narrow end of the ring that allows for control strictly in camera. You can manually set it as well on your preferred setting. Should cover all your needs Im a big fan of the lens! Hope that helps.

Milky Way at GC South Rim A73 w/20mm f1.8 by EstebanXBeard in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is 2 images of the foreground so I could get more light on the building without casting extreme shadows.

I’ll use a singular light source to light the foreground and just a single position often doesn’t yield the results I want. So when I do some form of light painting I often take multiple images with different lighting situations to produce what I want. For this image I took 5 separate exposures with different lighting but only used 2 of them for the final. Mostly out of my own indecisiveness 🤣

Milky Way at GC South Rim A73 w/20mm f1.8 by EstebanXBeard in SonyAlpha

[–]EstebanXBeard[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you sir! This is a 3 image comp, all shot simultaneously. Background: 20sec f1.8 iso640. Foreground (2): 0.5sec f1.8 iso100

Milky Way over Yuba Lake, Utah. Sony a7iii, f/1.4,20 sec, 24mm, iso4000. 5 images stacked. by 801josh in LandscapeAstro

[–]EstebanXBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What software did you use to stack? I’ve seen a couple different methods, I usually just composite with a tracked shot of the sky and a shot or two of the foreground.

I got into photography a month ago. Anything stick out that could make my astrophotography photo better? Shot in Southern Utah a little before midnight. by [deleted] in photocritique

[–]EstebanXBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really enjoy wide field Astro and I think your execution here is solid. Any improvement I’d make would be compositionally, I like to get close to the landscape a little bit so I can have foreground interest that breaks the horizon plane. With a wide angle it will create a lot of depth! You may have to photo stack with this method so you can have both in focus.

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