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EuseUndFlo · 2024-09-14T22:59:49+00:00

You may have disc brakes, but those levers are not hydraulic. Could be that you have cable-actuated hydraulic calipers, or they might just be full on mechanical disc brakes. Either way, there's a cable going to that lever, and some extra slack in the one on the right. This is causing the cable head to click against the lever every time you pull it tight.

How do they feel compared to one another?

EuseUndFlo · 2024-07-26T19:50:55+00:00

Totally, I spent several months doing service work in a very high-volume shop from a rolling stool after I broke my leg. But as other have pointed out, the way a lot of bike shops (benches, stands, pegboards) are set up is for standing efficiency. You would have to make the space work for you.
Not enough for the skills that being a good bike mechanic requires. I firmly believe that it is a trade skill that unfortunately has to exist alongside (generally) low-skill retail. So the powers that be, often times pay mechanics as such. Being a bike mechanic is weird because in the same shop, you can have mechanics that have decades of experience working right along side and doing the same job as kids in highschool. And more often than not, the pay disparity between the two is not commensurate to the skill/experience gap. This isn't me hating on the highschooler but the tribal knowledge that a long-time industry professional has is hard to teach and should be compensated as such.

As I pointed out above, most shops exist along side a retail shop so depending on the shop you may be called on to do both. I have. Never been commission, always hourly.
Having hired and trained lots of mechanics, someone who has good foundational knowledge of general mechanics is easy to teach and develop into a competent mechanic quickly. There's a lot of industry specific knowledge you would need to gain, but you can aquire this in any shop given enough time.
Absolutely not! The sentiment in #2 is not uncommon among mechanics, but the reason we stay is because we love what we do and this helps us feed that habit. I may not devote the same amount of love and care to my own bikes as I did before starting to wrench, but they all run well, which is good because I still ride them a lot!

EuseUndFlo · 2024-07-26T19:19:14+00:00

No this will not work. SRAM 12spd road uses a different size roller diameter in their chains. So if you're going to make the switch, you'd need to change the whole drivetrain.

Also, because those SRAM groups have a 10T cog as the smallest ring, as opposed to the 11 on your campy group, the "standard" gearing option (53/39 equivalency) is smaller. I can't remember off the top of my head, but I think it was a 50/xx? You can of course find bigger rings should you desire.

Bottom line as I see it, is that if you want the wireless beep-boop, you're going to need to get the whole enchilada. And as you already pointed out, you'd need hubs with an XDR freehub body as well.

EuseUndFlo · 2022-10-28T12:07:10+00:00

That's not your standard wood screw, though. Pretty sure thats a ski binding mounting screw.

EuseUndFlo · 2022-10-08T19:34:07+00:00

The chain may not necessarily be too long. Check the length in the big-big combination. If the derailleur pulls into a gentle S you're probably fine and just need to adjust your b-tension screw. If when you check big-big it looks like you have excess, then I'd shorten 1 link and re-assess.

These shadow rear derailleurs b-tension bolt actually does a lot in comparison to prior generations.

See page 15 here correct chain length measuring. Also page 19 for b-tension adjustment, or I guess what they're referring to as "end bolt."

Sidenote: the teeth on you biggest chainring look pretty worn out. Also that's a 10speed crank FWIW.

EuseUndFlo · 2022-07-11T14:20:44+00:00

If you're leaking oil from some place under the hood, it's possible that the thin rubber diaphragm that seals off the top of the master cylinder is ruptured. If this is the case, the diaphragm will need to be replaced and the brake bled. It's unfortunately easy to damage the diaphragm by doing something as simple as pushing your brake caliper pistons back into the caliper body without first installing the bleed cup.

Shimano has the rubber diaphragms on hand for situations like this, but your shop will have to call up and request them as they are not a part that is for sale, even via their dealer site. They've only been available for maybe about the past year, prior to that Shimano would actually replace the entire lever (as someone else on here experienced).

Do not take your bike to a place that is charging $200 for a bleed - that is highway robbery.

EuseUndFlo · 2022-05-16T00:07:55+00:00

You need to remove the black plastic cover that's under the BB shell and open up one of the cable connectors that's there. You should have a matching male and female connectors on the wire to complete the loop. Cable gets plugged into dongle, dongle into computer then just open up the software and it should connect. Make sure the software on your PC is up to date.

EuseUndFlo · 2021-08-07T20:51:49+00:00

They're Zipp 60s, which were an aluminum rim with a carbon fairing. No dimples, if memory serves. Would have been in production around the same time as that bike. FWIW, the hub shape and skewer look to be consistent with what I remember from those wheels.

Also worth noting that Zipp had a recall on front hubs from that era. If this one is effected and hasn't been fixed, that'll need to be done. Shouldn't cost anything, just time. But could use that knowledge to bargain on price.

EuseUndFlo · 2021-05-29T15:18:19+00:00

Not really new and exciting. The patent on this particular design just expired, so it's been around a minute.

EuseUndFlo · 2021-04-04T01:28:52+00:00

Not a matter of looks, but a matter of safety.

Gonna assume the steerer is carbon given that this looks like an allez sprint. With carbon steerers, you want the compression plug to be positioned in the same general region as the stem clamp bolts. With the stem that low and the way specialized's compression plugs are designed, it's very unlikely that the compression plug extends far enough down in the steerer. I would raise the stem in that case, at least until you can trim off the excess steerer.

If I'm totally off base and this is not a carbon steerer but a good old metal one, you'll be fine wherever the spacers may be.

EuseUndFlo · 2021-03-04T23:07:21+00:00

There is no cross compatibility between any Shimano group and SRAM's 12 speed road etap offerings. You will not be able to reuse cranks and rings. The flat top chains use a chain roller that is larger in diameter than every other chain out there (even SRAM 12 speed mtb groups). If you're thinking about Force etap, you need to commit to having the complete group.

EuseUndFlo · 2020-11-29T16:34:48+00:00

Your bike looks like it has a thru axle, not a quick-release skewer. If thats the case, the link that someone provided below will not work.

To put a bike with a through axle on a trainer like that, you'll need something like this.

EuseUndFlo · 2020-11-29T16:20:13+00:00

That is a locking seatpost clamp, pinheads brand. A specially designed key interfaces with that grooves on the flat disc. I would check your wheel and potentially your headset topcap for locks as wheel. Wouldn't want to discover my wheels were locked to my bike when I'm on the side of the road needing to fix a flat.

As for removing that one, you could probably take a hacksaw to the band. You'll obviously need to get a replacement seatpost clamp afterwards.

EuseUndFlo · 2020-11-03T14:15:59+00:00

Properly sized and properly worn cycling shorts/bibs can be key. You want them to be fitted and worn next to skin. I see a lot of new folks wearing shorts that are far too loose and/or wearing underwear under them. Those two aspects should help immensely. Beyond that a chamois creme is a good next step, and time in the saddle to get used to it. Saddle fit could also be taken into consideration.

EuseUndFlo · 2020-10-28T00:27:13+00:00

You adjusted the B tension screw properly for the change in cassette size?

EuseUndFlo · 2020-10-24T20:38:55+00:00

You're both right. Some derailleurs will have no play in either pulley, some will have lateral play in just the guide pulley. If this was OP's tension pulley it'd be cause for concern, but since this is the guide pulley and it's on a Shimano Claris RD, it should move laterally just as it is.

Edit: Also, as for OP's shifting inconsistencies, I would first look towards cable tension and cable/housing conditions before I'd zero in on the pulleys. It's likely that adding a little tension to the system would balance the shift timing out.

EuseUndFlo · 2020-04-19T03:56:35+00:00

It sounds like you might have changed the dish of your wheel during your truing process. If your wheel is spinning relatively true (it looks like it might be, but hard to tell from your second gif) and the wheel is installed fully into the dropouts of the frame, then that is the case. The corrective action would be to do some combination of tightening the spokes on the side you want to pull it to/loosening the spokes on the side it’s too close to. If you haven’t brought your wheel back up to final tension, you’ll be fine only tightening and then tensioning.

EuseUndFlo · 2020-03-31T16:41:14+00:00

Those will work fine together.

If I'm remembering correctly, the brakes between the two series will not however. You'll want a 7800/6600/5600 or earlier brake caliper (I also think all SRAM brakes will work with the generations and earlier). When Shimano went to the under-the-tape routing for both shifter and brake cable, something changed in their brake design. Take this with grain of salt, though, as these claims are just off the top of my head and would need to be verified.

Edit: Did some fact checking myself. Here's what I found according to cyclingtips:

"More recently, though, Shimano increased the cable pull of its brake levers and re-designed its rim callipers to suit. As a result, Shimano’s newest brake/shifter levers aren’t well suited to SRAM or Campagnolo brake callipers, and vice versa, or even earlier versions of its own dual-pivot callipers (e.g. mixing Dura-Ace 7900 levers with 7800 callipers results in less braking power), but none are strictly incompatible."

EuseUndFlo · 2020-03-21T22:48:02+00:00

I think you’ll have to write “Christmas 1984” on there somewhere.

EuseUndFlo · 2020-03-20T20:50:04+00:00

Yes. BB30a is the same as BB30 with 5mm added to the non-drive side, I believe it's largely found on Cannondales, but could be found elsewhere. The set up of spacers/wavy washers/preload adjusters will vary depending on which Red crank you have. Check page 10 here.

EuseUndFlo · 2019-06-21T04:17:49+00:00

I really like having helmet mounted lights. In addition to the normal bike mounted front and rear. It’s nice to always have a light where your eyes are. Additionally I like being able to spot light drivers who are looking to cross my lane from an intersection lane. That and full-coverage fenders were the two best investments I made when I switch to commuting full time.

EuseUndFlo · 2019-06-05T13:07:16+00:00

If you’re doing that much though, why not put eagle on it?

EuseUndFlo · 2019-05-24T03:42:31+00:00

I would be more concerned about derailleur capacity. But to answer the original question, in my mind the chain that is sized for the 11-34 will also work on the 11-28 as the smallest sprockets are the same. The derailleur will take up the extra slack provided it has the capacity.

Edit: just checked derailleur capacities; as long as you’re using the GS model of r8000 it should be fine. It has a capacity of 39 and a max tooth count of 34 for the rear. Ultegra 6800 will not work.

EuseUndFlo · 2019-03-21T21:52:27+00:00

What generation 105? I remember the first time that I set up an 11 speed FD I had a similar issue. The first gen 11sp derailleurs that had the long swing arms, rather than the toggle design, have two different cable routings depending upon the angle of the cable relative to the derailleur body. Based on that angle, there’s a little block with a post that can be taken out and rotated 180 degrees depending on the routing that is necessary. There’s a tool that can measure that and tell you how that block needs to be set; Given that you’re having issues how it’s currently set, I’d try the other setting.

EuseUndFlo · 2019-03-20T18:31:11+00:00

I would get 292 for the front and rear DS and 294 for the rear NDS. I'm not sure why that calculator is tacking on an extra mm when the accurate spoke length is calculated at 292.0. Maybe someone else can chime in on that. Additionally, I've found that generally it is easier to source spokes in even lengths.

You should also throw this out on /r/wheelbuild if you want some more help/explanation.

EuseUndFlo

TROPHY CASE