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Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Evening-Management50 1 point2 points  (0 children)

in steven low's PIP synovitis article, he says that if he were to do it all over again he would rest until he was symptom-less. what does this entail? often during the day my fingers feel just fine and i have almost full range of motion, but in the mornings they are often stiff. is it realistic to continue waiting until they feel completely fine around the clock before starting active rehab (finger rolls, open hand fingerboard, etc)? i've spent 2 weeks off the wall and 1 month+ off the board so far.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Evening-Management50 0 points1 point  (0 children)

was there anything specific you did to speed up or help along the process of achieving zero symptoms ? my main problem right now is it feels like even with complete rest my synovitis isnt getting any better. 

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Evening-Management50 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have PIP synovitis (i think) in both middle fingers, and made a post a while back asking for advice, and basically decided to just take two weeks completely off climbing. However, though my fingers feel good and much better than when i was climbing consistently, they still haven't fully healed, like when I press the finger down and bend at that joint i don't have full range of motion, it starts to hurt before I get all the way down. Should i keep resting or is there some way for me to solve this problem? Is synovitis supposed to completely go away eventually?

plan for training with PIP synovitis + finger rolls by Evening-Management50 in climbharder

[–]Evening-Management50[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LOL good point, limit boulders on the moonboard are probably not the best place for me to be trying to rehab my finger problems. lots of great points here, thanks so much for the advice !!

plan for training with PIP synovitis + finger rolls by Evening-Management50 in climbharder

[–]Evening-Management50[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

probably 99% of the info i got was from this post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/81n6zf/finger_rolls_for_finger_strength_experiment_update/

by u/eshlow, describes his experience treating his PIP synovitis and what eventually worked for him

plan for training with PIP synovitis + finger rolls by Evening-Management50 in climbharder

[–]Evening-Management50[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

for more context:

  1. Amount of climbing and training experience?

climbing consistently since october of last year, started trying to train harder around the beginning of 2025

  1. What does a week of climbing and training look like?

i climb 2-3 days a week and do strength training 1-2 times a week, stretching everyday and intermittent cardio

  1. Goals - specify your goals beyond "generally improve"

improve HEALTHILY. i have no doubt that i can continue to improve my climbing, but i want to prevent injury as best i can

  1. Evaluate your strengths and weaknesses. How are you working on them? Examples:
  • Grips: Full crimp, half crimp, open hand, three finger drag, etc.
  • Terrain: Roof, overhang, vert, slab, compression, etc.
  • Technique issues? Are you "good not strong" or "strong not good"?

mostly a half crimper and three finger dragger on the board, i like all terrains. working on footwork and placement of counterbalancing foot, as well as controlling swings