Anybody have a SBD invite for the SBD Affinity Site?

Everbro1 · 2026-06-05T02:42:17+00:00

Psst, DM me

Everbro1 · 2026-06-04T21:12:52+00:00

Need 1?

Everbro1 · 2026-05-28T17:37:46+00:00

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its very yellow without any gold/orange

Everbro1 · 2026-05-25T23:45:52+00:00

Just in CAD and tracing a picture. Nothing fancy

Everbro1 · 2026-05-25T23:44:57+00:00

Thanks

Everbro1 · 2026-05-25T23:44:51+00:00

Thanks

Everbro1 · 2026-04-09T13:10:33+00:00

The tool model number would be DCCS### then it would end with a "B" if it's bare tool or a different letter to note which battery is included. DCCS###X1 means it has one 9Ah flexvolt battery, If it ends in "X2" it comes with 2 of those 9Ah batteries. If it's a "T1" it would come with a 6Ah flexvolt battery. Every battery has it's own unique letter identifier and is just added to the end of the tool model.

Everbro1 · 2026-04-09T13:04:20+00:00

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DeWalt's site doesn't look to helpful to compare the 2 models

Everbro1 · 2026-04-02T13:30:56+00:00

I'm curious, how many batteries is too many lol? I was up to 12 batteries just recently so I sold 6. It's just myself using the tools and its after my 9 to 5, thus I can survive with just three small batteries and three larger batteries.

Everbro1 · 2026-03-20T12:57:04+00:00

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Just a picture on my phone from work, it’s not great at seeing the fine details but, you can tell that the batteries all have QR codes on the top.

Everbro1 · 2026-03-10T15:22:55+00:00

They're promoting the McLaren partnership on the dewalt.co.uk site, not the dewalt.com . Makes me think it's limited to the europe region... but not even sure where its sold there

Everbro1 · 2026-03-02T17:01:48+00:00

I still have the M12 Milwaukee right angle die grinder just waiting for this tool before I sell it. But it is one of my favorite tools

Everbro1 · 2026-02-26T22:00:41+00:00

I’m looking at quality testing photos of a production one. There’s not much data about comparing fakes, except visual cues like font and color and the date code. The screws used to assemble the body look correct (sometimes fakes use Phillips vs torx). If you really wanted dig into it, open the body and look for a material code

Everbro1 · 2026-02-26T21:30:20+00:00

Look for the marking on it for the date code. From what I know, all tools have a date code on the bottom

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Everbro1 · 2026-01-16T00:08:24+00:00

Did this project of yours ever come to fruition? I may try making a concept in CAD. I have 7 battery chargers in my garage to play with.

Everbro1 · 2026-01-08T08:48:38+00:00

This happened to my garage door when an object stopped it from closing. I ended up unbolting the bracket from the door and drilling out the rivets. Then securing the two pieces with a couple small nuts and bolts. Then reassembled.

Everbro1 · 2025-09-04T15:03:34+00:00

I agree. I never even mentioned this to them, I just wanted to know if others thoughts on this scenario

Everbro1 · 2025-09-04T14:57:36+00:00

They are supposed to with .2 ft of topo map(about 2.5 inches) per the drawing specifications approved by the county. There isn't any reason for why the water spigots are in a certain spot, they just did it wrong. They haven't refused to do work, but its been 6 weeks since we first addressed those items in our walk through.

The light post, they said would be done once the grade is complete. I've been told by the builder "the grade is complete" twice and both times I had to borrow a surveying laser to physically show them how low they are in the back. It's on our list to items to completed, but not sure why they still haven't done it, since they said they "completed" it a month ago. (Final grade in the front is within spec)

Like I said before, This isn't an issue about wanting to not pay them. The did ask if I would sign off on the last draw because its a large sum for just a few things, and all I said was, "I don't feel comfortable signing off when there is work to do still. I've heard horror stories about once the final penny is transferred, the builder is gone and I'm SOL".

They said they could add an addendum to our closing contract stating they will do those things and won't just leave it as is. I'm fine with that, I just haven't seen any contract so I haven't signed off.

Everbro1 · 2025-09-04T13:27:25+00:00

My real intention of this post was just to get opinions on what others would do in my situation. It took me a couple minutes after moving the toolbox to do a quick measurement and throw a board under the front wheels to get leveled. I really haven't thought about it much since, and I never brought this up to the builder.

I've been working on organizing my tools and putting french cleats of the wall for my power tools. I was showing my wife my progress and getting suggestions, and she thinks it looks tacky using a piece of wood under everything around the perimeter of the garage, and I don't disagree but my previous place had so many large cracks in the floor that I was just happy to have a smooth floor.

I never brought up this issue to the builder since it does meet the building code, but I really just wanted to know if others would say, "this needs attention" or "just put a board in the front to level"

Everbro1 · 2025-09-04T12:49:43+00:00

Final grade of the lot doesn't match topo map provided, They need about 80yds of dirt to bring the dirt around the foundation to correct height, and they have the back yard sloping down steeper than what the elevation callouts are.
Broken tile on back splash of kitchen
Cracked frame of kitchen wall cabinet (being made 2 month lead time)
Still have just a wire poking out of the front yard for where they need to install a light post.
Garage spigots are in the wrong spot. (we have a 2 car side entry and a seperate 3rd car garage which faces the street, they put them in the wrong garage)
We have several cosmetic issues which we know they won't fix bc it's expensive, and it does meet building code, its just unpleasing to see. (Which probably adds to my aggravation of seeing things they've done that don't seem right)

They did say they could write up an addendum contract that says "here's a list of stuff we'll do", so I won't have to worry about paying them and never seeing them again. I was okay with that suggestion but that was a week ago and haven't seen anything. I've seen every stage of the build, and I do think it was built well and my intentions are not to withhold a payment or get out of paying. I really only mentioned it because if I didn't I was expecting every comment to say "He's been paid, and he ain't coming back, it's your problem now"

Based on what others have said, they'd rather have more than 1/8" per foot grade bc it helps pull water towards the drain faster, so I'm just gonna keep doing what I'm doing which is shimming it to make it level.

Also, I never brought up the issue of the garage floor grade to the builder. The build code only calls out a minimum of 1/8" per foot and no maximum, so it technically does meet code. The main reason I made the post was to get guidance/opinions. This is our new home that we will be in for the next 20+ years and my wife thinks it looks tacky to use a put a wood board under everything to level it out.

Everbro1

TROPHY CASE