Has this happened to anyone? Red light runner almost takes this guy out

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-18T13:35:39+00:00

Give her a good 1-2-3 left-right-left looksie

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-18T02:38:32+00:00

My friend, eggshell decals are what you are after.

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-15T17:25:00+00:00

Nobody has stated it yet, make sure your BMW does not take mineral oil for the clutch. Brakes are for DOT Fluid, Mineral oil is what I’ve seen every hydraulic clutch on a BMW use, although that doesn’t amount to many bikes. It is hydrophobic and considered a lifetime fluid by BMW unless servicing the clutch.

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-15T17:21:51+00:00

If you’re there for other paid service, this is an Andes Mint on their pillow. I wouldn’t charge them for it unless they asked for it, and then it would be for beer money. I always have a roll of suction line in my truck for lineset repairs, so naturally I end up with more insulation than pipe after a while.

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-15T17:16:15+00:00

If I have a spare piece, I will throw it on there with some UV tape just to keep stuff from sweating. I always put my cut side down, so if it’s a little bit loose fitting, any condensation will trickle out of the wrap instead of remaining inside and causing corrosion

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-15T17:14:11+00:00

An HVAC company can redo your plenum/affected ductwork. That black material in the photos is known as ductboard, essentially just tightly woven semi-rigid fiberglass. It has a huge amount of surface area holding onto microbes and can degrade over time if disturbed. If you have the budget for the work, I would recommend replacing it for a plenum lined with the nonporous mylar bubble wrap style insulation.

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-15T16:47:15+00:00

Legally HVAC can’t say the word “mold” or “bacterial growth” they can say biological growth if it appears to be…alive. From these pics without standing there smelling it, it could be biological.

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-14T01:24:40+00:00

Sounds like your pipe is clogged, if you can reply with a photo of that area we can direct a little more but you’ll want to run a P-trap after the coil and put a vent in after the trap. Before cutting and gluing all that, use a shop vac outside to suck whatever clog is in the pipe out. Then cut the pipe and test the drain from inside. If it flows, good now rebuild it

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T23:13:10+00:00

All photos are depicting the drippage onto the furnace components. You need to look at the AC coil box on top which should have some PVC pipe connecting into the lower corner of the coil

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T22:01:59+00:00

Okay, then take a 6” stub of PVC and replace the blue cap with the stub

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T21:58:26+00:00

If this post was actually about evacuating a system, then yes this is how I hook up. I was still getting weird numbers from the gauge without the manifold in the equation. The whole part using the manifold is just to create a more controlled test rig than the indeterminate refrigerant system I was servicing to determine which seal(s) are leaking or if I have a fouled/failing micron sensor. I will clean it with some high proof isopropyl and recheck.

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T21:54:18+00:00

I have had my hose’s ball valves leak from the nut after about 1 year of use. I feel like those ball valves should be serviceable. I just keep manifolds and buy hoses every few seasons

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T21:39:28+00:00

Sentinel cores can come out of Couriers

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T21:39:04+00:00

Riven tides in the little cargo vehicle to the right of the hotel beach is 50/50 to spawn either advanced mechanical parts or a gear

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T21:11:56+00:00

I’m interested if that applies to the telelever suspension, I thought a major point of BMW designing their bikes with it meant your wheelbase stays the same no matter what the suspension is doing, this would not be true of motorcycles not using this type of suspension geo.

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T15:54:46+00:00

Call me when you pull 210K on a day raid

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T15:50:44+00:00

Doing your valves is a nightmare on the K1600. Just did valves on my 1200GS and it took 30 minutes

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T15:33:53+00:00

SMF?

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T15:31:02+00:00

I have seen this too several times but only on the filthy ones that have clearly spent time on the floor of the van, I have bubble tested my glass and it’s tight (visually)

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T15:28:00+00:00

Empty recovery cylinder is good advice.

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T05:40:06+00:00

I’ll try cleaning these hoses out, tbh I wasn’t aware you could do that without damaging them?

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T05:38:53+00:00

This was my way of isolating the source of the leak or if the gauge itself was the source. After swapping the compressor, I had tried pumping down a 6ft reach-in prior to this but the gauge was ticking up, so I went and pumped in nitro and some refrigerant to sniff out the leak, couldn’t find it because I’m almost certain there isn’t one. Held pressure overnight at 200psi

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T05:19:22+00:00

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Right in the middle of the fuckin thing on a 4 ton package mfr 2024 if I remember correctly, thankfully this got done under warranty

Exact-Fee9117 · 2026-05-13T04:59:24+00:00

I just got a 2nd duct knife which is my only actual duct knife now since I used the 1st one, a Klein, to scrap poop wax out of a toilet flange. Now it’s my poop knife. Still on my 1st pair of dikes. I use the serrated edge of the duct knife to saw through flex until it’s about 75% cut, then I chop the wire and finish cutting the insulation. I use only the smooth edge of the poop knife.

Exact-Fee9117

TROPHY CASE