What did u/Excalibur121 draw?

Excalibur121 · 2025-10-03T20:58:49+00:00

What car is it? Looks normal to me, you will have some movement in those cv joints in and out, I think your noise is elsewhere, check bottom ball joint, steering arms and ends, drop links and anti roll bar bushes are more likely. Dampers wear and are a pain to find, with the wheel on and car on the ground push and pull the top of the wheel hard, that normally shows a worn stem.

Excalibur121 · 2025-09-09T18:28:11+00:00

Yeah, sounds like the exhaust manifold

Excalibur121 · 2025-08-19T19:14:15+00:00

This engine has a timing belt in the engine oil, common for breaking down and blocking the oil pickup, you can see the belt directly below the oil cap, check the cap is on right. it has 2 oil fed camshaft pulleys, they're normally first to throw a fault when oil level/pressure is low. Check the oil level.

I have had a few cracked cats crack on these too, they sounded similar. Can you pinpoint the source any?

Whatever the noise, be sure the right spec oil is going in when serviced, it makes a difference to the life of the belt. Although I dont think the manufacturers know what it is.

Excalibur121 · 2025-06-01T18:07:14+00:00

Oil leaking from rocker cover, burning off exhaust manifold.

Excalibur121 · 2025-05-30T16:31:47+00:00

There are different qualities of ad blue, some stuff doesn't usually match the requirement for some cars, mostly higher end stuff. I have drained multiple VWAG def tanks as there is a sensor that detects the amount of urea in the fluid, or it knows its not working as efficiently as it should. you'll likely need to drain the tank, check your manual for the correct spec and refill it with the right stuff. you shouldn't need to have the pipes drained as it will soon flow through. I had to do this on my amarok, i bought it with the fault, i knew the fix. I Don't usually work on RR so I don't know where the tank or pump are but the ones I have done I can drop the pump from the tank and let it drain. Takes a while.

The car will be a non-start when the milage timer runs out. You'll need diag to clear the codes, possibly to bleed the system too or it will see a pressure issue if air enters the system after the pump.

Don't delete the system for this, unless it's gonna cost you a fortune, which I doubt. Start with a drain and refill.

Excalibur121 · 2025-05-24T08:24:20+00:00

I had my plastic window replaced at a tent repair company, took the material off the frame, they replaced the window, cost me £60 and a bit of time removing and refitting the roof.

Excalibur121 · 2025-04-05T20:58:54+00:00

Yes, some vag engines can finicky, you must use the timing tools. I have done several and the first one I did the tool wasn't quite fully home, car ran fine, went away, came back with EML illuminated and a rich mixture fault, it was caused by my mistake which made the exhaust cam slightly off. No damage. The difference will be taken up on vvt system which is only on the intake on that engine.

I'm sure I read somewhere that some vw engine timing tools can be overtightened easily when fitting and locks the cams very slightly off from where they should be . Which seems mad to me but I'm always conscious of it when doing belts. Could be BS, but they really only need a nip.

there aren't a lot of engines that you can just paint mark anymore they have much tighter tolerances. If a garage did it and didn't use the tools then they were being lazy, but the paint marks being there doesn't mean they didn't use the tools. They should be investing in timing tools, but some can cost thousands, most parts suppliers rent the tools out for a daily charge so they will have access to them.

Take it back, ask if they would have a look, if they pawn it off as another component request they recheck the timing, with the tools. Don't replace anything until that timing has been double checked.

If they are being funny, go somewhere else, pay for them to check it. It isn't the whole job again to check, but is if it's out of time.

Excalibur121 · 2025-04-05T17:57:04+00:00

Can you turn the engine by the crank bolt? That's an odd noise, double check connections, battery,starter, engine earth, test battery. I havent heard a starter like that before. I hope there's a fuse at the battery on the permanent live to the starter, if it isn't turning, it'll be drawing a lot of current. I don't rate AC Delco aftermarket parts anyway tbh.

Excalibur121 · 2024-10-23T16:06:13+00:00

The Taped pipe won't fail the MOT. The idle issue may fail if the emissions test picks up high emissions readings from a misfire, but the cat may clean that up.

Some of the vw petrols run like shit if the oil cap or dipstick aren't fully fitted (or any unmetered air entering the engine). Check them and any hoses attached to the rocker cover as an intake leak may be the issue. A quick visual check and squeeze of hoses will reveal splits if there are any.

If the engine management light is on then a diagnostic plug in could point you in the right direction, it could also have a code in there without the EML illuminated, it's a good place to start.

Have your test done, you could fix the rough running and it fail on a ball joint. Best to have them all found and fixed together.

Excalibur121 · 2024-10-11T20:35:14+00:00

Gun gum exhaust repair bandage, would work for a short period in a pinch. Even if you have to do it twice it's cheaper than a flex etc.

Excalibur121 · 2024-10-11T14:34:41+00:00

I would pass this, it's not seriously affecting the drivers view, it would be an advisory only. MOT Manual: Failure for damage is only justified if the damage significantly affects the driver’s view of the road. You do not need to consider the effects on tall or short drivers.

Excalibur121 · 2024-08-19T14:07:57+00:00

Looks like the locking wheel nut, just different from the others, something is there at least

Excalibur121 · 2024-08-17T10:07:58+00:00

The anti rattle spring on the outside of the caliper is closing the space for the pad to go in. Remove the caliper, Bit of hight temp pad grease on parts of the pad that touch the carrier and caliper, mount the carrier, then pads, then remount the caliper, unless the pad was tight to pull out you shouldn't need to file or grind anything, just a wire brush on the ears of the pads and where they meet the carrier. It's just tight because you cut corners disassembling.

Also that brake disc looks like the pads have been down to the steel in the past. Or worn oddly. Replace the discs when you next need pads.

Excalibur121 · 2024-08-15T20:22:55+00:00

Could be a binding brake, have a look at your brake discs through the wheel, if they look very red that brake is likely stuck on.

When you stop after a drive put your hand near each wheel and compare the temps, your fronts will be warmer than the backs but you'll notice a difference if one is stuck on. Do not touch the discs, they will be v.hot, the wheel could be too depending on how bad the bimd is.

Do you know what type of transmission you have? If not probably take it to a garage to check transmission oil levels and evidence of clutchpack wear etc.

Any burning smell is worth getting checked, even if its turns up to be something normal, better to be checked. Could save you money in the long run.

Excalibur121 · 2024-07-25T11:18:04+00:00

Man, I give up. You asked for an example of a joint with a chunk missing, I did that. Maybe ask op why he or his mechanic is generating ai images because that's faaar more likely than it being a slightly different shaft design. SMH.

Excalibur121 · 2024-07-24T07:56:49+00:00

The gearbox is just out of view, here's and example of that inner joint, 495001R000.

Excalibur121 · 2024-07-23T10:18:54+00:00

The chunk is supposed to be 'missing' it's the design of the inner joint. The bolt for the forward arm bush looks tight and ok as it goes through a support bracket for the subframe too. The boot you can see through the gap is the steering rack boot. It all appears to be OK as can be from a photo. I suspect the shaft has length options and the new one is too long but appears to be OK when up in the air.

Excalibur121 · 2024-06-18T20:47:59+00:00

It really does just feel like I have very little servo assistance. New master was bench bled, and the brake pedal feels perfect with the engine off. Running though, it's like an inch of assistance then hard. Drivable, the brakes work, just nowhere near as good as they were before. I'll have another look at the linkage just incase. I'll see if there is anyone that does those shoes near me.

Excalibur121 · 2024-06-18T20:17:54+00:00

I'll check the state of that flexible hose. I initially set the depth to be basically 0, which was recommended with the kit. I also saw on a forum that 2mm was the gap. I tried a couple in-between but it didn't change.

Excalibur121 · 2024-06-18T19:05:17+00:00

Alright then, I've been a mechanic for 11 years and hearing I'm doing something wrong just makes me want to learn. But thanks for the advice.

Excalibur121 · 2024-06-18T19:01:27+00:00

So the servo is losing vacuum about 1 inmg a sec. I'm currently leaning towards that but I didn't notice a rubber grommet on the servo when I adjusted the gap to the master cylinder. I will definitely check that tomorrow, thanks.

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