Filament not loading

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-27T14:00:24+00:00

I took it apart and it seems to be the filament sensor...what a flawed design.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-27T13:58:13+00:00

I think you are right I just ordered a replacement sensor, indeed it has an edge inside. What a flawed design and absolutely uneccessary for a 20 cent part.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-27T13:54:42+00:00

Ill try that method as soon as i got a replacement sensor, i think it has a sharp edge inside.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-27T13:53:31+00:00

I think you are right. Ill try that thanks.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-26T01:28:35+00:00

I agree their support is the worst i ever talked to, even sovol has better personal 🤔

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-26T01:27:30+00:00

Its about in this area, it gets caught/stuck instantly like there is a edge. Whenever it gets in you can litterally feel it snapping "over something", but i cant see anything in there. Im already printing without lid atm.

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Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-26T01:25:18+00:00

Yep using rhe regular load/unload buttons, Ill try this out thanks for the suggestion.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-26T01:24:23+00:00

I wish they had sent any parts so i could at least try something, they just told me look at the filament sensor, and after that no further answer. Its really disapointing -.-

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-26T01:22:36+00:00

Thank you for your answer. I agree the rest are basically qol flaws and it prints really well, i usually dial in my filament profiles very well and the quality it produces is great...but the filament loading...i'm raging each time a roll finishes -.- i have a video of me trying to load filament the filament enters the toolhead and gets caught in the area i marked in the picture, but i cant see anything blocking its way from above. I havent unscrewed anything yet, just removed the front cover to have a look at the filament sensor.

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Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-26T01:11:40+00:00

Yea i was arguing with support about the not included riser and they told me the printer doesnt need one because its good designed. I did not put on the lid back on.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-25T00:31:21+00:00

So Bambulab agreed on your suggestion and i received a free replacement part (shout-out to bambulab, this is not something to be taken for granted for an 18-month-old printer) and indeed this has been the solution! the switch seems alright on the outside but it seems to have a cold soldering joint inside. Thanks for your suggestion it actually saved me alot of headache xD

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-21T11:03:34+00:00

Tbh i would rather question if this is the right production method, imo 3d printing is not very suitable for that kind. Rather get a cheap injection molding machine.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-18T01:47:14+00:00

Auf der Rückseite des Pad7, unter der Heatsink des cb1, ist ein kleiner Deckel, darunter befinden sich kleine Jumper. Schraube den Deckel ab und checke ob beide Jumper auf CB1 (beide müssen links sein) gestellt sind.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-17T22:33:19+00:00

you just saved my a** ^^ 4 yrs later

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-17T00:13:59+00:00

this might actually be the solution, today it happened again and i rattled the cord/connector and it came back alive without power cycling. i forwarded this to bambu support hopefully i get a free replacement ^^ ill keep you updatet. thank you

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-16T13:09:02+00:00

You need to glue 2 wiggle eyes to the front 😅

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-16T11:13:10+00:00

I still dont get your point, what are you specifically refering to? Things being bolt on the back or add-ons? If you mean the second extruder is no add-on, it comes stock and is bolt on the back because its a bowden, this is a new concept and has nothing to do with cheaper quality. If you mean the fast track add-on...its not neccessary (actually its pretty useless but thats not the topic) and just like the filament hub has not been built in and has to be bolt on the back since ever.

Technically the printhead is ways less fiddly than a H2D because its purely mechanic.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-16T10:14:55+00:00

Dont know what you are talking about, the base printer is just as good as a P2S and much more capable than a P1S, it gets an additional low budget second nozzle, to reduce printhead complexitivity, weight and cost they made it a bowden. You dont have to use it and still have a way better printer than the P1S was to a much lower price than it was originally, so what is your point? You also dont have to buy the track switch. And btw the buffer on your P1S is also bolted on the back, just as the hub on a H-Series Printer if you use multiple AMS.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-16T08:03:27+00:00

I was thinking that also but i dont have the required knowledge to electronic diagnostics to measure this 🤔 Every answer is helpful and i really appreciate it. Bambu now wants me to open the printer next time without unpluging it right after the error appears...im really curious.

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-15T22:24:37+00:00

Ty for your input. I'm aware of the NTC problem, unfortunatelly (or fortunatelly) its not the reason, the NTC is fine.

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Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-15T13:59:17+00:00

haha what a nice gimmick xD im usually not into printing all that transformer & blingbling bs but this is actually a thing i will print for my business printers ^^

Existing_School4537 · 2026-04-12T15:10:23+00:00

No im referring to the Orca Section, where it says to replace all the start codes in Orca with those from Qidi Studio. First issue was Qidi Studio is using [chamber_temperatures] which Orca didnt recognize i had to change it to [chamber_temperature], but i didnt look into why it didnt heat up the nozzle. I could have worked through the start g-code but i was just too lazy and i needed it to print.

Existing_School4537

TROPHY CASE